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How to open the speaker without brake it. speaker membrane made from rubber. i would like to rewinding it by my self

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The rubber part of a speaker is called the surround.

You can remove the surround by cutting it away and then replace it by ordering a 'proper' rubber one, or a DIY solution with cloth like this.

Because it needs to have a good seal, you can't really cut it and the glue the same one back together.

I hope that helps.

Posted on May 02, 2010

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The speaker it self is fine the speaker wire broke loose, how do I fix?


there is two wires and two point of contact, in better speakers it is relevant where these are connected in standard speakers it is not.

just solder them in and that is all, you should find small connection plate (insulated!) on the back of the membrane crate, that is where they go.

Feb 07, 2015 | Logitech Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

Microcassette won't play but does rewind and fast forward


I have the 3 of these units at my office with the exact same problem. Turns out, with a little tinkering there is a simple fix.

Open up the unit (by unscrewing the two screws underneath) and look for a brass disk with a black rubber band around it that connects to a small tip. The rubber band should be either stretched, broken, or even melted. This is the problem. Over time the rubber band deteriorates which causes the unit to not play a tape (rewind and fast forward operate differently).

Replace the deteriorated rubber band with a new one similar in thickness and size. That should work like a charm. Be careful if the original rubber band has melted. It is tar-like and will be difficult to remove.

Hope this helps.

Apr 14, 2013 | Sony BM-815 / BM815 Micro Cassette...

1 Answer

WON'T PLAY BUT WILL REWIND AND FAST FORWARD


I have the 3 of these units at my office with the exact same problem. Turns out, with a little tinkering there is a simple fix.

Open up the unit (by unscrewing the two screws underneath) and look for a brass disk with a black rubber band around it that connects to a small tip. The rubber band should be either stretched, broken, or even melted. This is the problem. Over time the rubber band deteriorates which causes the unit to not play a tape (rewind and fast forward operate differently).

Replace the deteriorated rubber band with a new one similar in thickness and size. That should work like a charm. Be careful if the original rubber band has melted. It is tar-like and it will be difficult to remove.

Hope this helps.

Apr 14, 2013 | Sony BM-815 / BM815 Micro Cassette...

1 Answer

I own a logitech Z-2300 set, but recently had my left satellite speaker stop working. With few tests, found the speaker is indeed the problem and not any of the subwoofer jacks or input signal. After...


Hello
Your speakers' lead wire has a break in it. Lead wire is one that goes to the speker paper cone, from the connection point. It is a brided copper wire, very thin and flexible. If you be carefull, you can repair it. Speaker lead wire can be bought from electronic spare part shops. Just find out the size use in your speaker, buy a short lenth of it, say half a meter or so [even though it needs a few centimeters]. Look on the spekares leadwire fittings; you can compare the fittings of the other leadwire, and replace it. It is a very keen and sensitive work. After replacing the wire, fix it with some sort of rubber based gum. That is all. OK.

Jun 15, 2011 | Logitech Z-2300 2.1 Computer Speaker...

1 Answer

Mute button is too recessed & poorly designed. Please tell me how to disassemble this remote so I can replace button with a proper tactile switch. Conductive-rubber original switches are designed for...


Sorry but what you ask is impractical and maybe impossible.

Conductive rubber membrane switches generally work well, but they do allow oils in sweat and especially from food residues on the hands to pass through over time. On the reverse these oils eventually form an insulating fatty grease which prevent contact, but by carefully dismantling the remote (most of which are not designed to be dismantled, so you'll have to work out how to do this for yourself) the grease can be cleaned off. Most remotes are secured by both screws and plastic clips, you'll have to use a bit of common sense to work out how to dismantle and a plastic case opener to avoid damage to the plastic remote casing.Noter that as you work, if there's a part which won't come apart with gentle persuasion, then there's either a hidden screw which you have missed or a glued section, or sometimes a one way plastic clip which is not intended to ever be unfastened and which must be cut or broken..

I use a piece of paper towel soaked with car brake cleaner on the back of the membrane and if that fails I even wash the membrane in hot soapy water, but it needs to be thoroughly dried out overnight before re-use. I also use the paper towel and brake cleaner on the contact surface of the pcb, but go very sparingly with the brake cleaner as on some designs it can strip the insulating lacquer off the pcb. I try to use it only on the contact surfaces. Usually this fixes the failed contacts immediately and makes them as good as new, but sometimes I need to dismantle and repeat the work if the remote was very gummed up. If you use this method you can cut a suitable sized piece of rubber from perhaps a pencil eraser and superglue it atop the mute button to give it a higher profile.

If you're determined to make the modification you describe, then you're on your own as it's totally non-standard and not recommended. But you'll need to start by finding a suitable miniature non-latching switch designed for pcb surface mounting. Many are designed for light duty only, so you'll need to find one designed for more than occasional operation. Next, drill two holes through the pcb contacts which were formerly operated by the rubber membrane. You then need to thoroughly clean the contacts back to bright metal and then use a soldering iron to tin them. Tin the switch contacts and then insert the contacts through the holes. The low profile of the switch means that there is very unlikely to be the space to solder the switch from the front, so you may have to apply the soldering iron to the opposite side of the board where the contact pass through. This side usually has no solderable tracks, so you just have to be skilled enough to apply sufficient heat to the contacts to melt the solder on the opposite side without frying the switch. You could even drill the holes larger than needed to accommodate a very short piece of fine diameter copper conductor to pass through the hole and so give a solderable surface on the rear. If you succeed in this difficult task then you now need to take the contact membrane and either cut out the original mute button and fabricate some kind of protruding switch top for yourself, or partially hollow out the rear of the mute button to provide an accurate location recess for the top of the new switch. The membrane need to be in close contact with the new switch without pressing down on it whilst at rest, so expect a bit of trial and error. You may still need to build up the front of the button as described earlier.

If you've worked carefully, accurately, and have chosen the correct switch then you'll have achieved your aims. If you make a single mistake then you'll have irreversibly damaged your remote control. Like I said, it's a non-standard and non-recommended modification. Note that many of the miniature switches you'll be offered have the same internal construction to the one which you're trying to replace, although there's often a supplementary metal spring to assist with the action.

Good luck.

Mar 09, 2011 | Sony RMYD014 Remote Control

1 Answer

My saniflow was blocked and now I have freed it the motor will not switch off. What can I do


Some models uses a circuit board and some uses a pressure chamber and a float switch at the bottom to activate the pump. At the bottom of the pressure chamber you will find a rubber membrane; the way it works: water pressure pushes up on the membrane and turns on, pumps the waste out, as the pressure releases the membrane goes back down and shuts off. Could be a warped membrane or something may be stuck at the bottom of the membrane. Or the micro switch may be stuck on the on position. You will have to open up the unit and inspect it.

Aug 20, 2010 | Saniflo & Saniplus& Macerator Pump

2 Answers

The pump keeps running after flushing. Have to tap pump tank unit slightly to get it to shut off. Also from time of installation the water level in the bowl was and still is very low, any way to raise the...


hi keith

Bloues hear.
the water level in the boul is standerd to the manefactuer. the plumber cant help for that. if u put a level on ur toilet and iets level there is noting u can do about it.. the water that keeps on runing is ur seal rubber, its located at the bottem of ur flush meganusum. step 1.... tack off sistern aka pump. then step 2 ... unscrew your flush meganusem, will be the 1 in the middel of sistern. step 3 ... after unsrewing it u wil see there is a rubber. if the rubber looks fine then u must ajust ur flush meganisems arm or lubricate it. bt if rubber is misformed or teared ... u must go to a plumbing shop with the rubber. they will give u new 1 for cheap. and u can just reaplace it and esembel the sistern again

Jul 05, 2010 | Saniflo SaniPlus-Round SaniPlus Macerator...

1 Answer

My nintendo ds b button dont work. I tried everything it dont work.


Sounds like you have either spilt something on the buttons which has leaked inside and corroded the motherboard arround the button area. Or the rubber button membrane has split/worn out. Either way it needs opening up for it to be cleaned of corrosion or a new rubber membrane fitted. I have repaired a number of Ds's with this fault. Best of luck

Aug 04, 2009 | Nintendo DS Lite Console

1 Answer

Cerwin Vega D9-E Speakers. Bad crossovers...I think. Fixable?


Crossovers are made with wire coils, electrolytic capacitors and resistors.
Capacitors may get leaky or blown with time and heavy use, and are quite easy to find, just be sure to use the same polarity, capacity and voltage rating and to respect the polarity if it's a polarized capacitor.
There may also be a burnt out resistor or a coil. Resistors can be obtained and replaced (same resistance and wattage) and wire coils can be rewound (same amount of wire of the same wire gauge).

Another possibility is a partially damaged wire on the speaker itself. This is the braided curl wire that goes from the speaker membrane to the cable connection lugs on the speaker armature, and it may be damaged at the membrane side or the lug side.
It usually happens from what you call "overcooking".
To repair this it will require some soldering skills, but it's a bit hard to solder that type of wire, as it tends to oxydize and is difficult to clean prior to soldering, it may be difficult to access it, depending on the speaker structure(an alternative to this is to replace the speaker itself).

There may be some physical damage to the membranes if the sound is present but is of a bad quality (a slightly damaged membrane may be repaired using some rubber glue, but it will never return the speaker to the original condition).

These are just some suggestions, hope they can help you get closer to a solution.

regards

3rq8 (triarcuate)

Jul 23, 2009 | Cerwin Vega CLS-12 Main / Stereo Speaker

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