Question about Samsung DV316LES Electric Dryer

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The high limit thermal switch on heater burns out.

Changed the thermal switch. the heat worked for a minute or two then it stopped working. This switch is on the surface of the heating element.The switch checked open. That is why I changed it. Could the low limit switch which checked OK be the problem, by it not opening does not cycling heater on and off. Thanks.

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There are two thermostats, a 'limit' or 'operating' thermostat which turns the heating element on and off, and a 'high limit' or 'safety' thermostat which oversees the 'operating' thermostat by opening and removing power to the heating element when the upper limit temperature is reached. Basically, the only difference between these two are the temperature ratings. The 'high limit' is higher than the 'operating' thermostat. The thermal fuse is the last resort protection.

First and foremost, you must know that every inch of your exhaust vent pipe is clean.

Usually, a bimetallic limit switch will degenerate in the direction of too low of a temperature range because as the parts wear out inside, the mechanical tolerance widens (the tiny rod that pushes the contacts together gets shorter).

The high limit thermostat is by the thermal fuse. The operating thermostat is in the blower housing.

Check the fan impeller for broken vanes and lint. The impeller is directly coupled to the motor and should not turn without the motor. The fan housing and ducting should be free of excess lint.

Good luck.

Posted on May 02, 2010

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Take these steps to try and get it narrowed down.
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Dryer air is not getting hot. All other functions still work.


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
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1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
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3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
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3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
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If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

Jul 28, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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Electric dryer spins no heat, replaced heater element and high limit thermostat, tested thermal fuse and it does have 0 ohms, thermistor reads ~50 ohms.


in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

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Kenmore elite model 11062952100 My dryer will not heat I replaced The thermal cutoff and high limit thermostat the dryer produce heat briefly but is not producing heat again.


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I have a 90+ gas down draft furnace what burned a few minutes on and then off before turning the furnace off. The fault code would seem to indicate a Low Flame Sensor Signal. The sensor was removed and...


Hi,
What you are describing would seem to indicate that the high limit switch tripped....

Check to see if there is a manual reset high limit in that heater...also recycle the power at hte circuit breaker to reset it from a lockout to see if the high limit is an auto reset...

If none of that works then the high limit may be bad or the circuit board is bad...

heatman101

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I have a dyno glo rmc-fa100dlx forced air heater. It will light and work for a few minutes, up to about 5, then it will stop heating and the fan will keep blowing. any ideas? thanks!


If the unit comes on and runs but then shuts down, that sounds like an indication of a high limit trip.

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On some models, the high limit is a manual reset, meaning you need to reset the switch yourself or shut the unit off and then back on to reset it.


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