Fuses in amp were blown, replaced them and still didnt work, fixed a damaged wire and checked all other wires that i could, still nothing from the sub. sub plays at low volume but sounds crappy, then cuts off when i turn volume up. what else could be wrong?
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HELLO THESE AMPS ARE FAMOUS FOR DRAWING ALOT OF CURRENT AND IF YOU PLAY THE AMP WHILE THE VOLTAGE DROPS FOR TOO LONG YOU CAN FRY THE AMP BUT AS FAR AS THE SECOND AMP NOT WORKING AS WELL YOU MAY HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE RCA'S OR THE OUTPUT ON YOUR HEAD UNIT WENT BAD OR YOU HAVE A BAD GROUND CHECK ALL FUSES THEN CHECK THE GROUND WIRE TO MAKE SURE ALL PAINT HAS BEEN SCRATCHED OFF AND THAT IT IS CONTACTING BARE METAL THE ONLY OTHER OPTION IS FIND A FRIEND THAT HAS THEIR WIRES RAN AND HOOK UP YOUR AMP ON THEIR SUB IF IT WORKS THEN TRY IT WITH YOUR SUB IF IT GOES INTO PROTECT THEN YOU MAY HAVE A BLOWN SUB CAUSING THE SHORT HOPE THIS HELPS THERE ARE ALOT OF OPTIONS START WITH THE WITH GROUND AND GO FROM THERE
You have probably blown the internal power supply fuses in your amp or the speaker fuse in the amp. The chances of blowing your sub are slim.
The internal fuses can sometimes be hard to find. They aren't usually intended for the user to change. DO NOT replace them with higher amperage fuses if they blow after you replace them as there has been severe damage caused to the circuitry. Also, don't replace them with higher amperage fuses because you think that this will let you get more power out of the amplifier. This won't work, and you will end up blowing your expensive output devices.
Since you have two dual 4 ohm voice coil subs, hopefully you had one sub wired in parallel to each channel separately (one sub on 3, one sub on 4). That way, each channel gets 2 ohms. If you have both subs bridged across channels 3 and 4 (left + and right -) then you have applied a 1 ohm load to your amp, which would cause the problem you're having. It's possible the amp has been damaged, but the fuses on the amp should have blown to protect the amp. Check your sub wiring to make sure you don't have a 1 ohm load bridged across channels 3 and 4. Also check the fuses on the amp itself to make sure neither of them have blown. If everything is fine there, check your fuse under the hood that's connected to your battery. That fuse could have also blown.
The first thing to try is to disconnect the sub and all speakers from the amp's output block. The only things that you need connected to the amp are the 12V power, the ground wire, and the remote wire to turn it on. If the protection light comes on with only these three wires connected - your amp has been damaged internally and will either need to be repaired or replaced.
it sounds like it could be a blown channel in the amp. if the sub was blown it would still work just sound horrible. i have blown many subs and amps. you can bring it to an audio shop near you and they can fix it. i just got one of my channels fixed for 35$
When speakers are wired in the wrong way the will do the "pushing out" you're describing. Basically the polarities have been reversed and if kept like this over a period of time will blow the speaker. Best thing to do is to disconnect the power by the negative on the amp and take out the fuse from the power supply. Check the wires running from the amp to the subs, negative to negative and positive to positive. I know it sounds basic but many people do mix it up! I would also check to see what channels the subs have been wired into?
Best way is to have one sub from channel 1 and the other sub from channel 2 for example. Or if its a bridged 4 channel amp, have 1 sub running from channel 1&2, and the second sub running from channel 3&4 still making sure of the polarities. Again this all depending what kind of amp and sub you have.
A 4 channel (bridged) 1000W amp. 250W max per channel or 500W per 2 channels! So if you have 2 500W subs, by connecting one to a single channel will decrease subs ability due to the lack of power supplied. However by combining 2 channels you optimize the output!
Once you know all your wiring from your amp to subs are ok/good connections/good wires etc you shouldnt have to "wiggle the wires" to get it to work as this is just a bad connection. Also ensure that no 2 wires are touching. Make sure that the master volume on the amp is turned down. You dont need this to be on loud at all, in fact far from it or you'll risk damaging both the amp and subs!
I've got a pair of these MTX's subs powered from a Fusion 450 watt 2-channel amp. For the price, they are great. By the way, they are 4-ohm.
My first suspicion would be that something in the first incorrect wiring damaged either the amp or the subs. Can you explain specifically what the "installing the subs incorrectly" means? Was the amp output shorted out at any time or was it operated without a load? Either of these conditions will fry an amp and sometimes, the protection circuitry doesn't work either.
First make sure that your amp is still working. Check both the primary power fuse, usually located near the vehicle battery, and the fuses on both sides of the amp. Make sure that when you turn the system on, the power light comes on steady (blinking is protection mode). Test your subs one at a time on a speaker output.
how did u wire the speaker ?what is the speaker rated at 2 ohm or 4ohm? thees kicker l7s 15 inch is rated for 1000 rms and 2000 peak the only thing that could of hapend was somthing was touching some were in the wiring or u hade the speaker wired at a load of 1 ohm
If you've overheated it a number of times, it's possible that you've damaged the amp and it's trying to protect itself even though it's too late. Try disconnecting the sub from the amp. If there's no change, then there's a problem within the amp. It could be a thermal switch or possibly a stressed amplifier module.
if you have real old wires from the amp to the sub try getting new wires on it. check the little wires that go to the cone itself on the sub. sometimes they can manage to get pulled out of their terminals and make sure that thier touching the terminals on the correct spot