Question about Hitachi P50H401 50 in. Plasma HDTV

3 Answers

Hi, I had the same issues with the blue light falshing 4 times over and over again. I replaced the digital neptune board that hooks up to the main input board and now I get a solid blue light but after 15-30 seconds the light turns amber/orange and I still get no picture or no light from the screen. Please help. what could be the problem

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  • Ahmose Avin
    Ahmose Avin May 03, 2010

    to expensive for me. Can you or someone else help me figure this problem out please. Thanks

  • Ahmose Avin
    Ahmose Avin May 04, 2010

    ok even if the tv was blinking blue before and after replacing the digital neptune board it is solid blue. the sound came on for a couple of seconds then went away. so the sustainer boards huh

  • Ahmose Avin
    Ahmose Avin May 05, 2010

    thank you for your help. I did some testing and found out the it was the sdr-d. The lower buffer board.

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3 Answers

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  • Hitachi Master
  • 12,061 Answers

Http://elektrotanya.com/hitachi_lc58_chassis_50vf820_lcd_projection.pdf/download.html
Above a service manual too, http://www.scribd.com/doc/3401783/Hitachi-Service-Manual-TV-Plasma-42HDT5055-Chasis-PT3G
Above a training manual for plasma.
http://www.fixdevice.com/smanuals/file/36673.html
Your exact service manual above.
http://www.tv.quuq.org/index.php?ind=downloads&op=section_view&idev=42
http://www.retrevo.com/support/Hitachi-P50H401-TVs-manual/id/1233ci869/t/2/
Above, first, Owners, next, Service manual links for differing parts of the set, above that is a Hitachi, training manual, above that is a service manual. Download them ALL.
OK, above are Service manuals and circuit diagrams. links To help you. These are the manual i use to train engineers to repair these types of units. IF you wish to try to fix it yourself, and I do not really recommend it. FIRST, you Must get a service manual, then you need, equipment, an Oscilloscope is a MUST HAVE, (It may be possible to do without it, as long as no waveforms need to be aligned, or observed) . Also a Multimeter, and soldering iron, a DE-soldering station, an anti-static wrist strap, (Any TV is extremely static sensitive). Now FIRST you must make sure the Power supply is 100% as if this is NOT then nothing else can be. Also there are safety considerations, any unit that can cause a Fire or Explosion, or both, needs to be attended to with the utmost care. As if it isn't done correctly, a catastrophe is indeed possible, Faulty sets can cause a fire, and a fire in the middle of the night, I believe is not good. And any person that has attended that set, will be held to account. Now with that understanding, I guess proceed if you wish. Troubleshooting say if it is shutting down, after a certain amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins. Now just replacing boards will most likely just end up with more faulty, boards, as related you MUST ensure that you have the cause of the event, before we change anything. I have seen so called, "Techs" replace every board, and virtually every component, and that STILL didn't fix it, because the "Fault, or Cause" lay elsewhere, and had not be repaired FIRST, you see that FIRST STEP, like everything in life, is, CRITICAL.
Now if you feel that it you do not want to do it. It is my professional advice is to get you set looked at by a Hitachi Authorised Service Centre, and ask for free "Quote", this way, you will be able to make an informed judgment, as to repair or replace. As these days seemingly insignificant SYMPTOMS, often cost as much to repair as it may cost to buy.

Posted on May 05, 2010

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  • Master
  • 8,619 Answers

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. You’ll need to check the X and Y sustain buffer boards. When either of these boards goes bad common problems include negative image, no image, vertical or horizontal stripes on picture, turns on and than turns off, and many more. You’ll need to open the back off the TV and check for any swollen/bulged capacitors on these boards and replace whichever has gone bad. If still the issue is not resolved, then please check the power supply board. All this is only recommended if you have electrical expertise & know how to solder/re-solder components as these units contain high voltages even when switched off. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Posted on May 04, 2010

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  • Master
  • 666 Answers

The blinking light signifies to a repair technician with capacitors or circuits are having an issue they can diagnose the problem via the amount of blinks in between pauses however it will require a technician and some specific tools and schematics to fix and it may be cheaper if its no longer under warranty to purchase a new one Hope this helped Robb

Posted on May 04, 2010

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