Question about Mitsubishi WD62527 62 in. LCD HDTV

4 Answers

Timer light just blinks and tv never comes on. lamp is good, ballast board is good. please help. what can it be

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4 Answers

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  • Master
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Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. I am assuming it is Mitsubishi WD62527 62 in. HDTV LCD Television as mentioned at the top of the issue. You'll need to first check all components on the power board and DM board and then would need to replace the faulty components. You'll need to use a multimeter to check the circuits and components. This will take 4-6 hrs or less/more depending on your expertise. If you do it your self you'll need an experience to solder and desolder components on the board. Be careful as any wrong solder can result in short and can cause severe damage to the TV. I'll suggest you to do this only if you have repair experience of TV's. Getting this done from a qualified tech will cost you around $200-220 including the components. And if any board is to be replaced then it'll cost you around $300-350. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Posted on May 10, 2010

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  • Master
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Hi,

The problem you are seeing is the Digital Module (DM) not booting up, usually caused by seven bad (failing) capacitors inside the module. This is a very common problem in this model TV.

Chances are, though (since the TV was not without power very long), if you were to keep the TV plugged in, and push Reset periodically, it may eventually boot up and turn on (these are borderline bad parts). But the next time the power flickers, it will do the same thing. Eventually the problem will get worse until it will not boot up again (which may be now). If it does start working again, please remember to save this information for later when you need it.

You would need soldering equipment and good soldering skills to change these parts. The capacitors are all 1000uf 16V at 105C. Capacitors with a higher voltage rating are preferred, space permitting.

If you would rather have an on-site technician replace these, the labor should be in the range of $150-200 (in my area, depending on location). The parts cost should be $35.00 or less. Most servicers will know of this problem and can usually repair it in your home in about an hour.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!


Posted on May 10, 2010

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  • Mitsubishi Master
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Http://www.retrevo.com/s/Mitsubishi-WD-62527-TVs-review-manual/id/276ag923/t/1-2/
http://service-manual.eu/model.php?id=2732
Ok, please find above your owners manual and below that is your Service Manual, this is what the engineers and technicians use to troubleshoot and repair these sets.. Use the troubleshooting procedures and you should be able to find and hopefully repair your set.
IF you wish to try to fix it yourself, and I do not recommend it. FIRST, you Must get a service manual, then you need, equipment, an Oscilloscope is a MUST HAVE. Also a Multimeter, and soldering iron, a DE-soldering station, an anti-static wrist strap, (Any TV is extremely static sensitive). Now FIRST you must make sure the Power supply is 100% as if this is NOT then nothing else can be. Also there are safety considerations, any unit that can cause a Fire or Explosion, or both, needs to be attended to with the utmost care. As if it isn't done correctly, a catastrophe is indeed possible, Faulty sets can cause a fire, and a fire in the middle of the night, I believe is not good. And any person that has attended that set, will be held to account. Now with that understanding, I guess proceed if you wish. Troubleshooting say if it is shutting down, after a certain amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins. Now just replacing boards will most likely just end up with more faulty, boards, as related you MUST ensure that you have the cause of the event, before we change anything. I have seen so called, "Techs" replace every board, and virtually every component, and that STILL didn't fix it, because the "Fault, or Cause" lay elsewhere, and had not be repaired FIRST, you see that FIRST STEP, like everything in life, is, CRITICAL.
Now if you feel that it you do not want to do it. It is my professional advice is to get you set looked at by a Mitsubishi, Authorised Service Centre, and ask for free "Quote", this way, you will be able to make an informed judgment, as to repair or replace. As these days seemingly insignificant SYMPTOMS, often cost as much to repair as it may cost to buy.

Posted on May 09, 2010

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  • Master
  • 666 Answers

The blinking light signifies to a repair technician with capacitors or circuits are having an issue they can diagnose the problem via the amount of blinks in between pauses however it will require a technician and some specific tools and schematics to fix and it may be cheaper if its no longer under warranty to purchase a new one


Hope this helped
Robb

Posted on May 08, 2010

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