Question about Craftsman 22" Rear Bag Rear Propelled High Wheel Lawn Mower ()

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Mower wont start, it sat with old fuel for 4 months

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Could be a number of things, but on a machine that's sat for a while with fuel in it, I'd try dealing with the stale fuel and associated water in the float bowl of the carb first.

DO ALL THIS OUT IN THE FRESH AIR, WELL AWAY FROM SPARKS AND NAKED FLAMES!

Empty all the fuel out of the tank and dispose of it safely.

Replace with fresh fuel.

Get a small jar and slip it in underneath the carburettor (small mechanism, usually towards the front on the right hand side of a mower engine, with the hose from the fuel tank going into it) to catch the fuel you're about to drain out.

The bottom of the carburettor is going to look like a small metal bowl, maybe an inch or two across, with a bolt going straight through the middle of it from underneath (sometimes there's a second bolt too).

Find a spanner that's the right size (the bolt is usually brass or aluminium, and if you try to use the wrong size of spanner, you WILL damage it) and loosen the bolt in the centre of the bowl by a turn or two until fluid starts to drip out (think a little bit about which way you turn the spanner - the mind plays odd tricks when faced with a bolt screwed up towards you).

Make sure what comes out is going into the jar then look critically at what it is.

What comes out at first is likely to be oily water. This comes out slowly in big drops that stay bunched up when they land in the bottom of the jar. If you put a bit on your finger and bring it to your nose, it smells unpleasantly oily. It may contain rust coloured blobs of microbial contamination.

Once the water is gone, you'll get petrol ("Gas" to those who speak the other sort of English). This just runs out, spreads out over every surface it touches and makes the place absolutely reek of petrol the moment it comes out.

As soon as you're getting petrol out, gently retighten the bolt to stop the flow, remove the jar (dispose of the contents safely) and then, once you're sure all the spilt fuel is safely removed, have another go at starting the mower.

If the machine starts, all well and good. You may find that it runs for a few minutes before hunting uncetainly and then dying. If this happens, youve got another slug of water in the carb, which needs to be drained out as described above.

If it still doesn't start, the next place to look is the ignition system - If you help with that, post back here explaining what you've already done.

Let us know how you get on.

A.

Posted on May 01, 2010

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Does the belt slip going uphill or with a full grass bag? My Craftsman mower lost the self propel feature. The small pulley on the top of the transmission would slip under load, There was just not enough tension on the belt to over come it. Tried a new belt and also replaced the tensioner spring...still slipping when going uphill or with full bag. Possible pulleys worn...not wanting to gamble more time and labor, I bought a 4" 1/4" cap screw with extra nuts and flat washers, a 3"16 eye bolt as well. Drill a 1/4" hole in the bracket that holds the trans activation cable in place and a 3/16" hole in the mower deck so the holes are in alignment with each other. Put the cap screw through the 1/4" hole with the threads facing toward the front of the mower. Fasten the eye bolt into the 3/16" hole in the mower deck locking it in place with one nut on each side of the metal. Now you have the 1/4" bole protruding through the eye bolt. Using a flat washer and nut, tighten then nut easily and when there is room put a second nut on it. When you have tightened it up to the desired belt tension lock the two nuts together using two wrenches. Note...do NOT make the belt incredibly tight or you will destroy the trans in a short time. Go a little at a time till the drive does not slip under load. Good luck hope this helps. Oh....you will have to trim the plastic cover that covers the transmission so the added bolt will clear it and you can put the cover back in it's proper place.

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