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I have a Kawasaki FB460V that will not start. I have replaced: coil, igniter, plug, carburetor, good fire, it's getting fuel, I replaced bad flywheel key. Is this engine known for bad cam gear? It ran fine the last time it ran and no I didn't hit anything

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1996 Ford Escort 1.9L hatchback engine cranks but doesn't start.

if the fusebox is above accelerator pedal its relay number 1 .best of luck.

Posted on Oct 19, 2008

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SOURCE: 1988 buick lesabre won't start

they can test your ECM (under the coil pack) at your local parts store

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

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SOURCE: 2000 Hyundai accent, ran ok , next morning would not start.

check ignition module in the distributor

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

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SOURCE: mower starter pinion gear won't stay on flywheel to start it

you can actually just replace the starter bendix

Posted on May 09, 2009

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SOURCE: my old craftsman push mower just stopped

When you say coil, is it a coil with points and condenser or is it the electronic ignition that has no points and condenser? Whichever one it is, if you can manually move the flywheel with it off then your engine should not be the problem. I don't understand what caused it to look like it was hit by a train as it doesn't come in contact with any moving part. Is it possible it shook loose and moved toward the flywheel by accident? Try pull starting it without the coil to see if it still is seized up. Of course it isn't going to start but you will know if the coil is the problem. If it doesn't seem seized up then replace the coil.

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

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I have a 2012 Kawasaki Z1000 and when it is hot or 20km riding it starts to lose power and revs start hunting, If I leave it for an hour to cool all is fine again for 10 or 15 kms


Hi Anonymous, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition or leaking.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose connections at battery terminals especially the ground cable at BOTH ends ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor or intake seals.
12. Loose or dirty ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damage intake or exhaust valve.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://www.tradebit.com/filesharing.php/search/0/2012+kawasaki+z1000

Oct 20, 2015 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

My hand held blower wont spark plug and carb.replaced still wont start


If the plug is wet with fuel and it is firing then pull the muffler and for a struck ring. Struck and bad score cylinders will cause one not to start as you need at least 100 psi of compression to ignite the fuel mix.

These are okay then check the ignition of the flywheel to coil relationship as it could be a sheared flywheel key. Note most 2 cycles are now using cast in key as part of the flywheel itself.

Mar 14, 2015 | Weedeater Weed Eater Fb25 25cc 2 Stroke...

1 Answer

Want start. Getting fuel. No fire at spark plug


These engines have a low oil sensor and if the oil is low, the engine will not have fire. So check the oil level first and make sure it is to the full mark.

Check the spark plug that it still has proper gap .028-.031 in and the proper spark plug BPR6ES (NGK) or W20EPR-U (ND). While you have the spark plug out let's see that it is firing, reattach the plug wire to the spark plug and make sure the spark plug is in contact of a bare metal surface for a ground, the crank the engine over watching for spark in the gap of the spark plug. It would be best to check this in a low light area. Keep in mind that checking for spark this way and there is spark but when the spark plug is installed and there is compression the spark may not jump the gap as it should. If no spark with the plug out check the spark plug wire for cuts or tears and it none seen get a new spark plug. If there is spark with the spark plug out reinstall the spark plug. If the engine hasn't been started for some time drain the gas out of the fuel tank and carburetor. There could be water in the fuel also but to check if there is fire get a can of starting fluid. Drain the carburetor anyway at this point because if there is water in the fuel the next step may not fire the engine because of the water. Take the air filter out and give the opening of the carburetor a short spray of starting fluid. Try to start the engine, if it doesn't start or fire with the starting fluid there is something wrong in the ignition system. The Digital CDI Ignition Coil could be bad but before buying a new one you need to check the shear key of the flywheel to the crankshaft to make sure it is in good shape. You will need to remove the flywheel for this. If the key is in very good shape, then it is the coil.

If the engine fires on the starting fluid then you have water in the fuel or the fuel is not getting into the engine as it should from the carburetor. The carburetor needs to be cleaned.

Feb 27, 2015 | 13 HP Electric Start GX390

1 Answer

One cylinder not firing


Is the plug not firing? Can you check to see that it's actually firing at the tip? There are YouTube videos to show you how. Swap the two plugs to see if it is still a problem. If it is it you can rule out a bad plug. Do you have good compression? If the plugs are firing every time, then you may have a stuck valve or a problem with getting fuel into the cylinder.

Aug 04, 2017 | Garden

1 Answer

Masport 635 starts, revs up once, and dies. Will start again a few pulls later. Carb diaphragm has been replaced with no change. Could it be ignition? Thanks.


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you


Carburetor

If the lawn mower engine stops after a few seconds, the carburetor might be clogged or have bad fuel in the float bowl. If old fuel was left in the lawn mower for a long time some of the volatile ingredients may have evaporated, leaving a thicker, stickier product that is more like varnish or shellac. This sticky fuel can clog up the small jets and ports in the carburetor and it can be difficult to burn allowing the engine to only run for a few seconds. The only solution is to drain the old fuel from the float bowl and thoroughly clean the carburetor with carburetor cleaner. If that isn't effective, replace the entire carburetor.


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Carburetor Kit

If the engine stops after a few seconds it may not be getting enough fuel. The engine needs air, fuel and spark to maintain operation. The carburetor has two inputs, fuel from the gas tank and air through the air filter. The carburetor is designed to mix the air and fuel in a consistent ratio so that the engine can run continuously. If the carburetor is not getting enough air or fuel, or if the fuel is blocked inside the carburetor the engine stops after a few seconds. Rebuild the carburetor with this carburetor kit.





Gas Cap

If the lawn mower engine stops after a few seconds and then stops running, the gas cap might be defective. All gas caps have a small vent to allow air back into the tank when the engine is running - otherwise as gas is drawn from the tank it would create a vacuum. The vent can be difficult to see and there are many different types of vent. If loosening the gas cap a little allows the engine to stay running, replace the gas cap. It's sometimes possible to clean the vent, but on most newer engines the vent cannot be cleaned, it should be replaced.





Gas Cap with Gauge

If the lawn mower engine stops after a few seconds and then stops running, the gas cap with gauge might be defective. All gas caps have a small vent to allow air back into the tank when the engine is running - otherwise as gas is drawn from the tank it would create a vacuum. The vent can be difficult to see and there are many different types of vent. If loosening the gas cap a little allows the engine to stay running, replace the gas cap. It's sometimes possible to clean the vent, but on most newer engines the vent cannot be cleaned, it has to be replaced.





Old or Bad Gasoline

If the lawn mower stops after a few seconds, the carburetor might be clogged or have old or bad fuel in the float bowl. If old fuel was left in the lawn mower for a long time some of the volatile ingredients may have evaporated, leaving a thicker, stickier product that is more like varnish or shellac. This old or bad fuel can clog up the small jets and ports in the carburetor and it can be difficult to burn allowing the engine to only run for a few seconds. The only solution is to drain the old or bad fuel from the float bowl and thoroughly clean the carburetor with carburetor cleaner. If that isn't effective, replace the entire carburetor.


Spark Plug

If the lawn mower engine stops after a few seconds the spark plug might be defective. All small engines have an ignition coil. The coil is the device that provides spark for the spark plug(s). If the coil is bad there won't be spark to the plug(s). The coil is essentially a small, induction generator. It is mounted next to the flywheel. The flywheel has one or more strong, embedded magnets. As the flywheel spins, the magnet(s) zip past the induction coil, this action of a magnet passing past a coil induces a voltage. Depending on the design of the coil and the strength of the magnets, a stronger or weaker spark can be created and delivered to the spark plug(s). Each time the flywheel spins around a spark is generated. The best way to test a spark plug is to use a spark plug tester. The spark plug should have a strong, visible spark between the electrodes when the engine is cranking. If it doesn't, replace it.

Nov 13, 2013 | Garden

1 Answer

After warm missing and backfiring


Hi Debra, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose/broken connections at battery terminals/cables, especially the "NEGATIVE" cable at both ends, ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intake air leak.
8. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor.
12. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and/or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
For more specific information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
Kawasaki Motorcycle Service Repair Workshop Manuals

Sep 02, 2013 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

I have a 2001 ZX-6R i just changed the spark plugs and checked the air filter and everything is clean but it idles great but the minute i get into gears it starts sputtering


Hi Greeds_pride, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose/broken connections at battery terminals/cables, especially the "NEGATIVE" cable at both ends, ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intake air leak.
8. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor.
12. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and/or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
For more specific information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
2001 Kawasaki Motorcycle Service Repair Workshop Manuals

Apr 16, 2013 | 2001 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja

1 Answer

01 1200r misfire


Hi Ejayzautorep, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose/broken connections at battery terminals/cables, especially the "NEGATIVE" cable at both ends, ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intake air leak.
8. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor.
12. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and/or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
For more specific information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
Kawasaki Motorcycle Service Repair Workshop Manuals

Sep 18, 2012 | kawasaki ZRX 1200 R Motorcycles

1 Answer

2001 road king is only firing on back cylinder. replaced plugs and coil still the same, what is next?


Hi Advantagecol, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition or leaking.
3. Spark plug gap to close or to wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose connections at battery terminals,
ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor.
12. Loose or dirty ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damage intake or exhaust vale.
For a prime suspect please visit website below and good luck:
Big Twin Carb EFI DTC Intructions codes Harley Davidson Forums Harley...

Aug 23, 2012 | 2001 Harley Davidson FLHR - FLHRCI Road...

1 Answer

Just purshased 1997 vulcan 1500 classic, carb was gummed up bad, removed, soaked and cleaned carb. engine starts and isles fine, when it gets to about 2500 rpm's, it acts like it's braking up in the...


Hi Timsaw, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose/broken connections at battery terminals/cables, especially the "NEGATIVE" cable at both ends, ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intake air leak.
8. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor.
12. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and/or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
For more specific information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
1997 Kawasaki Motorcycle Service Repair Workshop Manuals

Nov 23, 2010 | 1997 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

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