Stero keeps switching off, must have a circuit breaker. How do you test if the volume controls or the speakers might be shorting the stero out? The stero was working fine for 6 months now it shorts out after 2 minutes.
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Re: 80 watt impedance matching volume control
Check your spekaer cabling first for any loose connection. if everything as usual then something is wrong with either your speaker system or the power output stage of your amp. you may call it a "circuit breaker" but it actually overload protection of the power amp so as not to damage speakers or amplifiers. have your speakers checked for burn coils. you can also try to remove or turn off speaker switch, turn on the power, level up the volume and see it the system still stays on and does not trip (as you called circuit breaker) if the unit remains on, then it must be your speakers. though it could also be a leakage in the power transistors of your output stage, it something a technical person have to do to check anyway.
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You can link them using Tape Rec Out on one amp and connecting it to one of the Line Inputs on the other. This will allow the same signal to be played out from both amps. Each amp will power its own speakers. The volume controls will need to be operated on each amp, IOW, they aren't linked.
If your idea was to link the amps to somehow boost the power then you're out of luck. You can't multiply power up in that way. Connecting the speaker outputs of one amp to the line inputs of another will just blow the input circuits.
Speaker output is anything up to 30 Volts and could be anything up to 8 amps when the speaker impedance curve dips to its lower ranges. Fortunately the input impedance of a Line In is generally very high; 10,000+ Ohm. So the input circuit won't draw that much current. The problem is voltage.
Line inputs will accept something in the region of 1~2 Volts from a source signal. That's equivalent to roughly 1/3rd of a Watt @ 1V. The volume control wouldn't be much higher than its lowest setting. As soon as you crank up the volume even a little higher, you'd overdrive the Line Input stage on the receiving amp. That would result in.... first.... massive distortion which would cause the speaker voice coils to overheat and short (High distortion = Dead speakers = Not good). Then the input circuits would fry and kill the receiving amp.
first is how u want to run the amp itself ....... the MAX2500 can run in mono (bridged) output or stereo ......... though wat u want to watch is the impedance of the load really with the bridged load being no lower than 8 ohms/1500W (there's reasons for this) and the stereo load where u can have either 4 ohms/750W or 8 ohms/500W so how do u want to run this is first the question ..... all 6 on the bridged output or 2 off each channel (though running 3 would make for complicated impedance load) ..... so u'd run 2 in parallel for a 4 ohm load with 300 watt requirement from the amp and u can drive them to 1.5 times their rated RMS figure so a nice 500 watts :)
Ohms is an impedance, they call it resistance. You have to hook up 8 ohm speakers to the 8 ohm terminals on your device. Some speakers are 4 ohms, and may not be able to handle the power if hooked to 8 ohm terminals, so be sure you have what they call an "impedance" match.
Watts, by the way, is what they measure Power by, and P=EI (Power equals voltage times current).
How loud? Or how high on the volume? Any amp can produce a heck of a lot of dirty power (well above its 'clean' rated power) if pushed hard enough. Distortion will rise rapidly and speaker-killing clipping can occur. It's trying to tell you to back off.
What you will need is an autoformer based speaker selector with volume control for 4 speaker pairs. This will take the left and right speaker wire out from your amplifier and distribute it to 4 pairs of speakers. Each pair of speakers gets it own volume control so you can control each room sound independently. It will also do speaker impedance matching so that your amplifier is not being over driven by the 4 pairs of speakers. The manual for the product you purchase will aid you in the proper settings of the auto former control. You can find this product from companies like Russound or Niles.
I think it's a bad idea to use a simple potentiomenter to do what you want to. You'd be better off using another amplifier with RCA cables in between them. It's not hard to find an old amp that you could use these days.