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Whirlpool Dryer Model LER5636E Serial MF1802393 Won't heat. Element Checks good. Continuity across element when removed from dryer. What else schould be checked?

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  • Dryers Master
  • 43,501 Answers

Hi,
If you have a gas dryerWhirlpool Dryer Model LER5636E Serial MF1802393 - 2_bing.gif.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...

Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

If your dryer2_bing.gif is electric2_bing.gif..
There could be a number of different problems...
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

heatman101

Posted on May 03, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

I replaced fuse, high limit thermostat and thermal cut off, still heater does not cycle on and off, just gets hotter and hotter., is this the thermistor or something bigger?


I would first check to see if the heating element is shorted out. When the vent or blower housing of the dryer get built up with a lot of lint the dryer won't vent out the heat properly and it can cause the heating element to warp and short out against the cabinet. To check for a shorted element you should unplug the dryer and remove the bottom panel. On the right side you will see the heating element, remove the two wires that connect to the element. With a multi-meter, check to see if you have continuity from either side of the element to the cabinet that hold the element. You should NOT have continuity when you check for this, if you do the element is shorted out and will need to be replaced. You can also pull out the element and do a visual inspection, sometimes you can see where the element coil is touching the housing. When the element is shorted out, it will continue to heat when the dryer isn't calling for heat. They will even heat with the dryer not running, so make sure to unplug it for safety reasons.

Jul 27, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

I changed the heating element in my lady kenmore dryer, but still not heating...


If the previous element was burnt out, the following test can be done.

First unplug the dryer. then bridge the active and neutral on the plug with a bridging jumper. ( a piece of skinned wire will do ) then set the dryer control on heat (hot or warm) make sure the door is closed ( door switch cuts element as well as motor.) If this is impossible then you may be able to operate the switch by clamping it with something. then disconnect the element wires from the element. You should be able to read continuity across two of the element wires. If you can, then select the other temperature setting (hot to warm ect.) if you can read continuity across the common and the other then the element is faulty if you cant, then check hot temp switch, warm temp, switch belt breaker switch. if it has one.

Aug 31, 2011 | Whirlpool 279843 Whirlpool Kenmore Dryer...

1 Answer

Duet Dryer not heating Tumbles but does not heat.


I would suspect a heating element on this model first. Unplug UNIT remove three screws at bottom of toe kick panel and remove unplug heating element check for continuity at terninals of heating element it will be the first two you will see in front

Hope this fixes your concern

Aug 13, 2010 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do you replace the heat element on a whirlpool LER8648 dryer?


Before replacing the heating element, check first the continuity of the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the heater box, the resistance of the heating element, and the continuity cycling thermostat located on the blower housing. Replace the heating element only when it reads open. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat should any one of them is found open. The cycling thermostat must have continuity between its thicker terminals; otherwise, replace it.

All of the above components are accessible through the rear of the dryer. Remove the rear panel by removing the screws securing i to the dryer cabinet. Replace the heating element by removing the screws attaching its housing to the heater box then securing the new heating element housing in place.

May 28, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Electric Heating Element


No continuity would mean the element is OPEN, or showing an infinite resistance reading. If the element were SHORTED, it would read 0 ohms. These elements are supposed to read 9 to 13 ohms if good. Double check and make sure have your meter scale set correctly. You should be taking resistance checks on the lowest scale of Rx1.

If you have confirmed the element is defective, and the model dryer is correct, the element should pull out of the heater box by removing two screws on the left hand side of the box. You will need to remove the thermal cut-out (TCO) and hi-limit thermostat in order to accommodate removal of the element. These are the two components that are mounted on the side of the heater box. You leave the wires connected, and simply remove any mounting screws that hold them in place. This will keep the element from coming out of the heater box.

If these instructions are not clear, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER so I can understand how your dryer is configured.

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links can give you some added advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions. I'm assuming this is a Whirlpool Electric Dryer, because of the illustration you posted the question under. I hope you find this information is helpful.

If you would like some added advice that can help you in the future, Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that you can to help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.

May 10, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity...

1 Answer

Model # 110.86820100 runs without heat, doesn't dry clothes


This is basically a Whirlpool dryer and they are notorius for having the thermal break fail. Disconnect dryer, remove back panel. The heating element is on the right side in a metal duct. On the left side of that duct is a small round disk with 2 red wires going to it. That is the non-resettable safety. Remove both wires and use an ohmeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, the thermal cut off and the thermostat at the bottom of the element MUST be replaced as a kit.
PN 279769
If thermal is good, check the heating element for continuity. Remove red wire from element and check across ELEMENT terminals. No continuity? Replace element pn 4391960
Both problems are generally caused by lack of air flow. Make sure that dryer has good air flow to outside after repair or you will get to do this again!Your part: 695563 Substitution: 279769 -->

Mar 03, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Turns on and spins with cold air.


Check for 240 volts at outlet. If good then get your ohmeter out. Disconnect dryer, remove back panel. Heater element is housing in metal duct on your right. Remove two red wires on left side top of duct. Check with ohmeter. If no continuity, the thermal limit is burned out. Replace it and the thermostat at the bottom left side of the heater element with pn 3977393
If thermal is OK, reattach wires and remove wire from heater element terminal. Use ohmeter to check for continuity across HEATER ELEMENT terminals, not thermostat. If no continuity, replace element with pn 3403585
Both failures can be due to insufficient airflow. Makes sure dryer has good air flow to outside of building, or you will be doing this again!

Mar 02, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Whirlpool dryer not heating up checked heating element have continuity arcroos coil connectors


Check the thermostats. Unplug one wire and test for continuity across the thermostat terminals.

Jan 03, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer runs great but no heat


am sending you the information I have so you can ask me with the names of the parts you want me to assist you.

If nither of this match to your dryer I need the model n serial# .

your retiing is very important for me
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May 20, 2009 | Dryers

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