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Re: Need to locate chain & bar oiler adjustment screw ...
Look to the lower left side of the bar (as you hold the saw normally)--there should be a screw head in the engine case there. Check the adjustment by holding the bar tip at speed near a piece of cardboard for a couple of moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Hope this helps!
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Jan 20, 2012 - Uploaded by gregthegardener
lf your chain saw isn't lubing the chain it can cause serious chain ... How to Replace the Bar & Chain Oil ...
Not all 345 machines had an adjustable oiler, it is retro fittable if it does not, however if it hs an adjuster, the screw is located on the bottom of the saw between the cranckcase and the fuel tank, just below the sprocket, there will be an oil symbol and a - and + sign there, the pump is three position, for 13/15/18" bars.
To check for proper oiling, run the saw at speed with the tip of the bar near a piece of cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil after several moments of running. Adjust the oil adjust screw CCW for more oil. The screw is usually in the lower front or underneath the engine. Remove the bar and chain first before adjusting anything and check the oil passages located in the drive end of the bar for plugging--especially the two small passages that go from the large oil holes out to the chain groove on both sides. Start the engine without the bar and chain--look at the oil port where the bar mounts next to the engine. It should ooze out oil with the engine running fast. If nothing at all, the pump, oil lines, and oil filter in the tank should be checked. When everything seems to be working, then adjust oil flow for best operation. Hope this helps!
The fuel filter is in the gas tank. You need a small stiff wire or something small with a hook on it. There is a fuel line that runs to the bottom of the gas tank. The fuel filter is on the bottom of it. You need to pull that fuel line out of the gas tank to change it. Be careful not to damage the fuel line while trying to fish it out of the tank. It's hard to replace. The air filter should just be under the cover for the carburetor.
You need to set the mixtures for the carburetor. There is usually a rubber grommet on the side of the housing near the carburetor. You will find a Low and High adjustment screw. The default setting for the H and L carburetor jet is usually to turn them in all the way till they stop and back them out a turn and a half. You should start the chainsaw and warm it up untill it will run without choking. Make sure that the air filter is cleaned. Start by turning the low adjustment screw out. You will notice that the rpms should start increasing. keep turning it out until the rpms start to drop then turn it back in a quarter of a turn from where it idled at the fastest rpm. At this point you may need to adjust the idle adjustment till the saw idles at a good speed but not fast enough that the chain turns. You may need to readjust the idle speed so the chain doesn't turn during idle. To set the high adjustment screw will require that you run the saw at max RPM. It may be a good idea to get someone to hold the saw so the bar doesn't hit anything while you're doing this. Hold the throttle trigger all the way down and then turn the high adjustment screw in and out until you find maximum rpm. Turn the screw back in a quarter turn. Your saw is now tuned for the elevation you're currently at.
For chain oiler:
Remove the housing that covers that bar and sprocket. There are two plates on each side of the bar that set over the studs.They may be identical or slightly different depending on the saw but at least one of them will have a hole in it for the oiler. If you remove the bar and both plates you will see the oiler hole on the saw housing. This oiler injects oil through the plate and into a small hole in the bar where the chain picks it up and carries it around the saw. If this hole becomes plugged with sawdust it will keep your saw from oiling the bar proplerly. This hole should be cleaned out periodically. It's not a bad idea to remove the whole chain periodically and clean the chain guide all the way around the bar and get any sawdust buildup out so the oil can flow better.
Whether you learn to do it by hand or buy a saw sharpening attachment keeping a sharp chain is #1 in my book for keeping your saw running properly. The more pressure you have to exert to cut makes the saw run hotter, the bar wears out faster, the chain wears out faster and the sprocket wears out fast plus it's just plain harder on you to run the saw. In my timber cutting days I would file my chain every time I filled the saw with gas. Here is a helpful video for sharpening a saw. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkSYov5jcO0
Homelite/Ryobi.com https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here. The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use don't match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches. Once you find and open the IPL. If it has an oiler adjustment there will be an oiler adjustment screw listed. CW is usually less oil, make small adjustments of no more than ¼ turn. I suggest you contact them and check your Operator's Manual before making any adjustment. HTH Lou
on one side of the saw are two nuts and a chain tightener screw. loosen the nuts but don't take them off. turn the tightening screw counter clockwise. the bar should slide backwards. the chain goes over the clutch disk and the tangs go into the bar groove. just keep pressing the tangs into the bar all the way to the tip and around the tip sprocket. now turn the adjustment screw clockwise which will tighten the chain. don't tighten it too much! leave a little "play" - tighten down the nuts. plug in the saw and start it. if the saw has a chain oiler press the oiler a few times. as you use the saw the chain will expand and loosen. loosen the nuts and tighten it again just a little.
I cannot find any 3200 series IPLs. Individual models can be found here: McCulloch IPLs http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/McCulloch/139.59.html If this is a Chinese Mac (MTD) they are very difficult to work on. Most saw shops will not repair one. GL Oil System Plugged. Remove the clutch cover, bar and chain. Clean the oiler hole and channel. Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no a blunted, hooked piece of wire can be used to pull the hose in the oil tank out. I recommend the filter be replaced. Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is probably left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly. Lou
The Stihl 026 PRO does have an adjustable oiler and it is located on the bottom of the saw just below the clutch drum.
Stihl also builds an 026 "Standard" without the adjustable oiler, however, the hole location for adjustment is still there.
The 026 PRO will also have a decompression valve on top of the saw to make the rope easier to pull during startup. If you have the DECO valve you should also have the adjustable oiler. Hope this helps.
Depends on the vintage, turn the saw upside down and you can see a screw to turn, 3 settings, right under the clutch and shaft. use a screw driver if it is adjustable. I like to keep mine set on high, oil is cheaper that new chains and bars. Use a bar oil, not old used motor oil.