Question about Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

5 Answers

We have a 2004 neptune front load washer. After

We have a 2004 neptune front load washer. After the final spin cycle the clothes are soaking wet. It is not going into the fast spin mode. I have replaced the pump...that is not the issue.
I am now looking at 2 options.
Clutch or motor replacement. It could be switch that activates high speed. It is not a balance issue, i dont think anyways?

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  • 7 more comments 
  • danielkow May 01, 2010

    MAH3000AWW

    serial number 37296992WB



    How do I replace the switch?

  • danielkow May 01, 2010

    also if this works, I want to pay you for your consultation. How can I do that?



    I want to always do right. I dont really like getting ripped off or paying for lame advice which often happens.



    Do you know of the class action suit? We filled our paperwork out and submitted it timely? Nothing resulted. Would you replace this washer if another Maytag if given a discount due to the problem?



    Which washer front load offers the best experience and warranty?



    Dan

  • danielkow May 01, 2010

    I replaced the two door latch switches and the wax motor servo as you suggested. It does not latch the door as required. I do not hear the latch lock engage. The light on the lock panel does not go on?

    What is my next solution the control board? Is it possible the wireing harness could be defective. The control board is $289,00 that is a steep solution. Do you think I should pitch it and replace with new??

    Both are real tuff cash flow concerns in today economy?



    Dan

  • danielkow May 02, 2010

    Ok I am going with your recommendation. I have ordered the machine control board shown below. What you said is logical. I found a company in Indiana that has a new board for $135.00. I also see a kit offered. One said to be sure the brown wire is not burned to the wax motor.



    I hope this works. Wont know till i get the part in a couple of days. Thank you so much for the advise.I have replace the two lock switches and the wax motor as recommended. The light does not go on nor does the door lock after the installation. Any idea why the latch and wax motor failed?



    Best regards,



    Daniel Kowalski

    Maytag 22002989 Washing Machine Control Board

  • danielkow May 02, 2010

    Gosh thank you so much for the dialogue,



    I have validated everything you told me, just by my discovery in my quest for this repair. I even found a you tube repair for the board itself...not to sure how adventurious I want to be. It shows 2 resisters that fail R6 and R11. I also found the exact board I need on ebay, new from a store seller. It is currently at $30.00. I requested a buy it now price and I will snatch it up if it is anything under $100. I have another company I emailed that has this board for $130.00 and seeking to have it shipped Monday.



    I really do appreciate you help and discussion on this matter. I am a realist. I know thing fail. I am doing this for a couple of reasons. I was not satisfied with the repairman who came out to my house and suggested replacing the pump which I did. That drove me to this discussion board and pushed me to the Maytag manual and the trouble shooting decision tree that confirms everything you said.



    I have been an engineer most of my career and pretty handy overall. All things say this control board will resolve this problem. Should this work I do want to pay you something for your time. I know it will not be as great of a reward as what you have given me.



    My 87 year old dad is my electrical espert, best friend, companion. He has had failing health and is again in the hospital. He wanted me to bring him the wiring diagram lol. Also, I am doing that.



    Once I have the part in my hand I will keep you in the loop regarding the completion. I have some things you may want to have for others seeking this resolution but it will not send through this site. My email address is danielkow@msn.com should you care to have the linkd and details I have encountered.



    Respectfully,



    Daniel Kowalski







    Thank you once again,



    Daniel Kowalski

  • danielkow May 02, 2010

    Mark this is very attractive to me. See what he offers. It is worth a shot, especially the upgraded content and the fuse addition. I am pursuing unless you recommend I do otherwise.

    He seems legitimate. Seems a good resouce for you as well if it works.



    Dan



    This listing is for Me to repair YOUR upper control board with the burnt R11 / Q6, and the no door lock light, won't spin dry symptoms. This is a very common failure in the 2000, 3000, 4000, and (Non-Digital 5000a series) washers.The washer will still go through most of cycle normally,If Not, please let me know what it's doing Prior.(you might have a bottom board/motor problem). I repair some of them too.
    I upgrade the Q6 triac (this is 1st out,shorting r11) to a 1amp 600V part, (stock Q6 is rated .8a / 400V, most only up voltage). Replace R11 w/Blue metal film fire resist type,and repair associated damage to circuit tracks. I also test / replace Q2 transistor, and test the associated circuits.The board is then inspected (w/magnifier),paying particular attention to row of thin circuit lines under plugs on back (120v running close together in high condensation/ moisture spot),and Reseal backside.(Important step,for reliability, usually overlooked,by in home repair)

    New factory wax motor kits 12002535 (in stock) Add $12. This is the door lock actuator and Needs to be upgraded to black plunger style (if hasn't been done already ,like in the last 2 yrs),or board Failure Will happen again. They retail about $18 at appliance parts stores.If you NEED a Wax Motor ,please ADD $12 to initial payment or $12.40 (extra flat fee charged me in addition to first +4% Ppal fees)

    I will upgrade Q3 (timer), Q9 (cold water), and Q17 (hot water) triacs for $7.50. We can also add a board mounted fuse to protect door lock circuit for $2.50 These are the same triacs that fail, (less frequently on these circuits, $42.50 total upgraded board w/ fuse, Recommended but not mandatory).

    >Note:> If your (R11) caught "fire" (burned long enough to leave soot a few inches up board and burn big rectangular capacitor,(about 1 in 20),Basic repair goes to $38 / or / $48 for upgrade w/fuse <

    The board will be repaired same / next day in most cases and returned priority mail . You need to Protect U1 processor from static electricity by Wrapping the board in a Layer of aluminum Foil. (They can be killed by a trip across carpet, and are not available).
    I trim down width on priority boxes so they will fit most mailboxes,(it makes the box stiffer too) but I have a large locking delivery box so theft / size not a problem. Recommend using box over padded mailer.

    If your in a hurry? I have a few nice 3000 / 4000 series boards (upgraded all 4 circuits & fuse) I can sell exchange $56, must have similar (repairable core w/ bad door lock circuit) postage out ) and core return postage($14.50) . Return postage label included so you just have to attach label and give to mailman, saving a trip to PO. Let me know I can revise an invoice ,(please include OON20040xxx # on transformer end of board).

    I can also sell you a deluxe kit,,,Best Value Available,,
    if you'd like to do yourself .
    My 6 pc w/wax motor kits are now $23 ,and Deluxe 12 pc kits $28 I even have econo soldering irons for $6.Let me know if your missing your machines schematic (usually tucked left corner control panel area),and I can send you one.

    Questions / Help troubleshooting,, shoot me am email,#, I try to respond Quickly
    My address is 2506 NE 104th St Vancouver Wa 98686 (comes up w/phone # at check out)
    dwonus5@comcast.net ,, have a good day ,, Don W

    Instructions to disassemble machine [access door lock ,install board ] included as well as Troubleshoot


    Malfunctioning interlocks , support number provided to all customers



    If your in a hurry? I have a few nice 3000 / 4000 series boards (upgraded all 4 circuits & fuse) I can sell exchange $56, must have similar (repairable core w/ bad door lock circuit) postage out ) and core return postage($14.50) . Return postage label included so you just have to attach label and give to mailman, saving a trip to PO. Let me know I can revise an invoice ,(please include OON20040xxx # on transformer end of board).

    I can also sell you a deluxe kit,,,Best Value Available,, if you'd like to do yourself .
    My 6 pc w/wax motor kits are now $23 ,and Deluxe 12 pc kits $28 I even have econo soldering irons for $6.Let me know if your missing your machines schematic (usually tucked left corner control panel area),and I can send you one.

    Questions / Help troubleshooting,, shoot me am email,#, I try to respond Quickly
    My address is 2506 NE 104th St Vancouver Wa 98686 (comes up w/phone # at check out)
    dwonus5@comcast.net ,, have a good day ,, Don W


    Instructions to disassemble machine [access door lock ,install board ] included as well as Troubleshoot

  • danielkow May 02, 2010

    In pursuit, full steam ahead.



    Best regards,

    Dan

  • danielkow May 04, 2010

    The rebuilt board is on its way. Here is a real trust illustration,,,the gentleman shipped the board without payment. I am to swap out the replacement board with mine and send the moey with the return. Yes there is a mans word and honor as we have all learned as a value.



    I am anxious to swap the board and take it for a test flight. I pay all goes well. And yes I* will keep you posted. This has been a very rewarding process. As God said, don't focus so much on the ending, you will lose so much joy along the way, getting to your destination. Thank you all so much for your help. I am learning a great deal and appreciate the support.



    Dan

  • danielkow May 09, 2010

    I have been working on my Maytag front load washer now almost 2 weeks. I have replaced the wax motor and the 2 contact switches that go with it as the machine would not go into high speed spin and the door would not lock.

    Replacing the switches and the wax motor did not correct the condition. I them replaced the main control board and that did correct the locking door and the panel light now goes on as it is supposed to.

    Unfortunately, the motor still did not go into high speed spin. That left the clothes excessively damp at the end of the cycle. I was to far into the repair, so I then replaced the motor control board and motor. That was supposed to correct the remaining issue.

    After replacing the motor and motor control board, it does go into the high speed cycle, but it does not stay in high speed spin long? Does anyone know how long the high speed spin stay engaged? Is there anything I now need to do to put this repair behind me?

    Could it be the intertial unbalace switch? Any further thoughts or suggestions. I have gotten a lot of advice and direction. I have found reasonable parts and do the work myself has saved me a ton. Also I have learned a lot about the machine peculiarities.

    Respectfully,

    Daniel Kowalski

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  • Maytag Master
  • 8,220 Answers

Too much detergent can cause the machine to lug down. These machines are programmed to correct a suds detect. To fix it the machine overworks itself and overheats the motor position sensor. You must clean up the washer and use the correct amount of the HE stuff.
Which is:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash load

HE 2X (double concentrated) : (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X (triple concentrated): (1) Teaspoon


Posted on May 09, 2010

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster May 09, 2010

    Check this out

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  • Maytag Master
  • 12,061 Answers

Www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16010061.pdf -
OK above is a service & repair manual, this is what engineers use to troubleshoot & repair, these units.
http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Repair-Help
Whirlpool Appliance Repair
http://www.washerhelp.co.uk/genuine-parts-advice.html

Above 3 links, are all DIY washing machine repair... Between these and your manual, you should soon have it sorted.
I think you may find that you have a faulty motor, you need to use the manual to check it all out, if you can get yourself, or already have a multi meter, please use than to check, they're very handy tool.


Posted on May 03, 2010

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  • Maytag Master
  • 2,605 Answers

Hi daniel, this is actually a common problem with the neptune washer, especially first & second generations like yours. It is the "machine control board" as it is referred to, not to be confused with the "motor control board". The control is located on the top control panel. You can usually examine the control via a visual inspection to confirm or dismiss any damage. Look for any sign of burnt resistor's, specifically one identified as R11 and one as R75 they are both part of the lock circuit you've already been working on from my understanding, and if damaged will prevent the washer from draining and spinning properly because the door lock won't engage. The control will need to be replaced if damaged ( unless you can buy new resistors and repair it via yourself or someone you know ) as will the latch wax motor which again I think you've done. Check with a local or on-line part depot with your model number for specific part number's. Hope that help's, let me know. Thank's for visiting fixya and if this was helpful please leave a rating for the info I provided. Thank's again and good luck. macmarkus :)

Posted on May 01, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald May 02, 2010

    Hey Daniel,

    Regarding the issue as to why the wax motor fails, I can't speak to that directly regarding YOUR machine because in fact in my experience the wax motor fails as a result of the resistor's failing in the control as opposed to the other way around. The common mistake made with these repairs is many techs. ( unfamiliar with this problem on neptunes I suspect...not to sound like an apologist, I only speak for myself ) only discover a faulty control AFTER putting in a new wax motor, but when that doesn't remedy the problem it leads to a new control...which is typically the initial fault all along. Many controls will come with a new wax motor in the kit as they work hand in hand, hence should be changed together. I suspect the value (resistance) of the original resistor's was too great or too little and thus burning out prematurely and in turn causing the wax motor to fail. That is just my suspision, not fact.

    I'm pretty confident the control will get you fixed up, keep us posted and let me know how it goes. Thanks again Daniel for visiting "fixya" for your repair solution.

    Good luck.

    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald May 02, 2010

    Hello again,

    I'm glad I could help and there really isn't any further monitary payment neccessary, It's a hobby for me. My customer's on-site pay me enough, I just became a member here to share my experience, possibly help and to learn. I guess it keeps me humble because no matter how much I think I know about appliances, someone always knows something I didn't know or a different take on doing it. I wish I could say I was surprised by the "repairman" experience, It's all too common in my opinion.

    I am actually aware of the number of on-line repair tips and the like, I try to determine what I should direct people to and what not to but there is so much out there it can be tricky to determine what is helpful and what might be too much for most do-it-yourselfers. I'd classify yourself as an above average "Joe" as far as your comprehension of these things.

    I hope all goes well for you and your Dad, I lost mine to cancer when he was just 60, but it is never easy at anytime or illness, my wifes grandad just left us at 98yrs. God bless him.

    Let me know should you require further assitance on your washer repair. I would like to be in the loop to the completion of this repair. I would be interested in looking over the info you found, I will email you later.

    Thanks Daniel

    Best regards.

    Mark :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald May 02, 2010

    Hey Daniel,

    Thank you for providing such a detailed letter to what upgrades these folks perform. It sounds very attractive and I will definately look into this the next time I need a control rebuilt. I dealt previously with an outfit in Ontario, Canada but I don't believe they repair these boards to the same degree, just match the original values for resistors. I certainly can't see any downside to what they offer, they seem to be very familiar with the early "Neptune" issues. I'm sure they've repaired many. In fact the added fuse is a great idea and I had often wondered myself why some kind of protector wasn't present from Maytag to begin with.

    Let me know how it goes. Thanks again Daniel.

    Regards,

    Mark

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald May 04, 2010

    Hello again Daniel,



    What happened ? I came back to your post to see how it was going and it`s now locked to another expert.



    Just wondering,



    macmarkus :)

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  • Master
  • 1,554 Answers

The problem is definitely not a clutch or motor but indeed a switch that activates the spin cycle, the door lock switch. At the start of the spin cycle, the control checks the door lock as a safety feature to prevent opening of the door during the high speed spin cycle. The control stops the cycle or continue to tumble when the door lock is not activated.

Check the door lock mechanism wiring harness connections and make sure it is connected properly. Replace it if necessary.

Please specify the exact model number for specific advice and exact part number.

Posted on May 01, 2010

  • 3 more comments 
  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 May 01, 2010

    The washer continues to tumble instead of spinning at the end of the
    wash cycle if the door lock mechanism fails to activate the door lock switch. At the end of
    the wash cycle, the motor stops then start the spin cycle but the
    control will not command a spin speed of more than 51 RPM unless the
    door lock switch is activated.


  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 May 01, 2010

    The most common cause of the failure of the door lock mechanism is the failure of the wax motor (part number 12002535) that pushes and activates the door lock switch. It is the part leads to the filing of class suit against Maytag. Access to the door lock mechanism requires the removal of the front panel then lifting of the top cover. Disconnect power to the washer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.

    Open the door and remove the four screws located vertically along the
    inside lip of the door opening. These screws hold the front panel to
    the front shroud assembly.

    Once the four screws are removed, grasp and press in on the upper edges
    of the front panel posts then twist it inward to release the clips
    holding it to the cabinet. Tilt the top of the front panel and move it
    away from the washer.

    The top panel is held on each side of the cabinet by two hold down
    brackets. Locate and remove the 5/16" hex-head screws holding each
    bracket then swing the bracket to the outside and unhook it from the
    slot in the top panel lip.

    Remove
    the four screws fastening the dispenser bezel to the top cover and
    remove the bezel. Open the door then lift the front of the top panel
    and tilt it toward the rear of the washer.

    Disconnect a wire
    from brown colored wax motor and measure the resistance of the wax
    motor with a volt-ohmmeter. At room temperature, the resistance of the
    wax motor is approximately 1900 ohms.


  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 May 02, 2010

    Sorry for the late response due to time zone difference.

    The control board is actually repairable in contrast to most technician suggestion and can save you a lot of money. All you need is a little soldering and desoldering knowledge, and the right parts such as soldering iron, a 3.9 k ohms carbon resistor (R11), and MAC97A6 TRIAC (Q6) which you can find in your local electronic parts store. These parts fail when the wax motor fails. Please refer to the tech sheet for the location of these parts on the control board including the information on other parts that needs to be checked if a failure occurs.

    Please reconsider accepting the solution if you find it helpful.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 May 02, 2010

    The TRIAC Q6 is on the left of R11 in the diagram.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 May 02, 2010

    For your information, you are ipso facto member of the class suit against Maytag if the washer was purchased after April 1, 1997 and before August 9, 2004. You can call up 1-800-688-9900 for more information. Here's the link to the settlement page.

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  • Maytag Master
  • 3,740 Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

This manual will be a huge help in troubleshooting. This if from page 37 of the manual:

Clothes Wet:

Possibly due to the washer shutting down too
soon or execessive suds present. Did the timer
advance to OFF? If yes, then excessive suds
may be the cause or the intertial unbalance
switch tripped too soon, resulting in lower spin
speeds. Change the inertial switch if suds were
not detected.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4027729


Note: If the timer motor is energized
for five minutes without the cycle inputs
changing, the machine control board will
drop the line voltage relay.

Also follow the trouble shooting steps on page 43. It will also point you to a motor phase test in section 2 on page 28.

CAUTION.... motor is 120VDC not AC

This should get you started. If you need more assistance Just respond here and I will get back to you as soon as I can.

Parts for the MAH5500AWW (Neptune) can be found here:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47324

Kelly

Posted on May 04, 2010

  • Kelly
    Kelly May 09, 2010

    Here are the speeds and what happens:



    R P M F U N C T I O N

    47 ...........................Tumble

    47-85 .......................Distribution

    90-250 .....................Accelerate Through Critical

    250-499 ...................Accelerate Through Critical

    500-575 ...................High Speed Acceleration (Imbalance trip 3)

    - WILL DROP TO 450 RPM

    600-675 ....................High Speed Acceleration (Imbalance trip 2)

    - WILL DROP TO 555 RPM

    > 6 7 5 .......................High Speed Acceleration (Imbalance trip 1)

    - WILL DROP TO 650 RPM

    750-800 .............TOP SPIN SPEED



    By design, the unit should normally spin up to 850 RPM then slow down to an optimal spin speed that is the best balanced spinning speed due to content (clothes) position.



    See page 43 troubleshooting of the manual link I posted earlier (Blue and underlined). It points to the unbalance springs as a possible problem, doing the motor phase test and even mentions making sure the machine is level.



    Kelly




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