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Have you checked fuse's # 19 & 20 40 & 80 amp fuse's . Located in the under hood fuse/ relay box. Also the ELD unit electric load detection in the under hood fuse box . Do you have an know how to use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ,how to read a wiring diagram ? http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams . Watch a few videos on yourtube for basic automotive electrical testing , Look at electrical distribution wiring diagram , start at the battery , check battery voltage , check at power distribution box Fuse's . Can you do that ? Honda ELD Is the B+ voltage at the I/P fuse box . Check B+ voltage at the ignition switch . Only U can find the problem by electrical testing , we would only be guessing .
remote-on lead from a 12V power source that turns on and off with the ignition if the head unit does not supply a wire. (switch)
RCA connection from head unit to the amp. (sound in)
Speaker wire connection from amp to speakers. (sound out)
It is easiest to start with deciding on the amp mounting location, and then running all the wires. Add an extra foot or so to each wire. You may discover in the process that you have to move things around due to unforeseen obstacles. This extra foot will help in that case. Always attach the ground wire to the chassis first and then to the amp first. Once you have the fused power wire from the battery installed; remove the fuse before trying to attach it to the amp. ONLY re-install the fuse once all connections to the amp are made, secure, have been checked twice and you're ready to test it.. This includes speakers. DO NOT for ANY reason have the amp powered up before attaching ALL speaker connections.
The 'remote' terminal is powered by a lead that is normally connected off the head unit...if it has this feature...the head unit, if a good quality one' will have a blue wire that will turn on the amp, by providing a signal to it.........if not, you can bypasss this
Check the primary fuse on the positive amp wire usually located near the + battery post. Also check any onboard fuses. If these check OK, make sure the remote lead has 12V+ on it when the head unit is turned on. If these all check out, the amp is most likely defective.
A short on Amp power contact can blow the internal power adapter. Before deciding if to replace or repair the amp, check if it has an external fuse mounted at the back side of the amp. In that case replace it.
Also ensure that the wires that you are connecting to the amp are still powered. Read Volts on wires before connecting to test the amp.
If the Amp has blown, then the damage will be located in the power supply circuit, and can be repaired testing and replacing few components.
The size of the wire affects the performance of an amp, but the amp should still turn on. 12 volts is 12 volts. So you tested with another amp, on the same wires, and it works fine.The only thing you can really check on the new amp is the fuses in the side. If those are blown, then you should be able to (Unless the amp is fried, and that's why it blew the fuses in the first place) fire it right up. If the fuses arent blown, and you have all your power, and ground, and still nothing.. Well then in that case the amp is just bad, and regardless of the wattage, you just don't fix a Pyle amp.