I'm not sure what you are talking about when you say turn down the red drive on the red crt circuit board, can you please tell me where I can find that so that I can try to adjust it. Also the resistor connected to the red drive switch variable, where exactly is that. I'm not too good with working on tv's so any help on locating these two ideas would be greatly appreciated. Also, last night I took off the speakers and tried to adjust the RGB buttons, but that didn't seem to help. It appears that the left side of the tv is more pink than the right. I've tried convergance, and the tint, color, etc. but I just can't get rid of the pink. Any information on how to find the things you mentioned would be great. Thank you so much!
Your set doesnt have a color wheel you have 3 CRTs instead. Try turning down the red drive on the red crt circuit board that should help if not check the resistor that is connected to the red drive switch Vasriable resistor(switch) that is probably open if not the crt is probably at fault. If you need more info let me know.
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Re: Pinkish Red Screen??
The RGB controls that you found were those the focus or were they the screens? There should be small switches like that (variable resistors) on the CRT circuit boards themselves. The crt circuits are attached to the crts end . You can gain access to them by removing the speaker grille and access panel in front. I am not sure of the resistors number for that model, however these are always brown resistors and and you will see that one leg is attached to the runner right next to that control switch. I will try to locate the service info for that cahssis V18 and repost if I can locate the info.
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That model is famous for having CRT issues. Chances are the Red CRT or one of the CRT drive board is whats causing the issue. Usually if the set shuts down shortly after turning all red then its the CRT. But if it just turns red and keeps working it could be one of the CRT boards dropping out causing the Red to become dominate.
This will require you opening the back cover of the television.
This could be a heater-cathode (H-K) short in the CRT, a failure of a component in the chroma circuits or video output (driver board), or bad connections there or elsewhere.
Note: before proceeding, it is a good idea to make sure that the screen is degaussed - else you could be attempting to track down problems with the wrong color!
Some simple tests can confirm or rule out other possibilities.
Compare the voltages for the video drive signals to the CRT on the little board on the neck of the CRT with the CRT both connected and unplugged. A schematic will help greatly in locating these signals.
If there is a significant difference especially on the bad color, then the CRT is a likely candidate. Try tapping the neck of the CRT GENTLY (with it plugged in and while viewing a picture) to see if it is an intermittent problem.
If there is no significant difference, you may have a bad driver or a problem in the chroma circuits.
Look for bad connection/cold solder joints, probably on the little board on the neck of the CRT. Use an insulated stick to gently prod the board and its components in an effort to induce/cure the problem. Look carefully for hairline cracks around the component leads.
You can swap components between two colors and/or test with an ohmmeter on that driver board to determine what is bad.
Another simple test: Disconnect the cathode for the full-on color from its drive. If it is still full-on, there is probably an H-K short in the CRT since the only way to get each color on the screen is via the cathode connection to the CRT neck board. If it is removed and there is still that color, the current must be taking another path inside the CRT.
Alternatively, interchange the outputs of the bad color with a good one by jumpering on the video driver board (on the CRT neck). If the bad color changes, then the problem is in the circuitry and not the CRT.
To identify if the fault is in the CRT or a control problem try this (WITH SET OFF):
On the CRT board, lift the output end of the green cathode final resistor. Do the same with the offending red cathode's resistor. Use short insulated jumpers to 'swap' drive signals - drive the red cathode with the green drive and the green cathode with red drive. (Note that if this problem only occurs after a warmup period, color at turn on will be - well - wierd, but it is just a test.)
If instead the symptom becomes 'goes green' then the red drive leg has the fault and the CRT is probably good. (In this case, there may be bad connections or a bad component on the CRT drive board.
Also it involve a technical skilled personnel to handle this..
you do not have a CRT in your flat panel set.. What you might have is your color setting to high causing the bleed or your
T-con board is bad , but first turn down your color if that does not do it have a tech replace your T-con board
The adjsutment that you turned down was the G2 voltage to the red tube which is just a temporary fix for a CRT which has a short developing in it. Try turning up the red adjustment again only slightly to see if the red CRT ( tube) will light up
if it does and then the set shuts down its most likely the red CRT which is bad . If it lights up but you get retrace lines but doesnt shut down it possible that its the CR board ( Red CRT Drive Board) which is at the very bottom of the red tube.
That model has been known for the CRts being bad. If the lines are kind of running on an angle and slightly arched that could either be the red CRT or the Red CRT drive circuit board. If you remove the front speaker grille and access panel you will see a small control block with 6 dials on it, and 3 dials will have screen or G2 stamped on the box. Adjust the red down a little and see if that has any effect on the red lines. then let me know
The 46H84 has 3 CRTs instead of a lamp. Red, Green and Blue. Your red CRT is shorting out shutting down the set.Here is how you test that theory. Remove the speaker grille, there will be an access panel behind the grille remove that and you will see the CRTs red is usually on the left. hit the power momentarally to locate which tube is red. then power down and unplug the power cord. Carefully remove the tubes Circuit board. ( you may have to carefully slice the glob of silicone applied at the factory to get the circuit board off) Once you have the circuit board off the Red CRT make sure it isnt touching anything and try powering up the set. If the set stays on and the other 2 CRTs light up. That tells you the RED crt is shorted and thats whats shutting your set down. Let me know if I can assist you further.