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With the door closed and the timer turned on the heater turns on but the motor does not run

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  • kb666kb May 01, 2010

    No i have the drum removed so i have a clear view of the motor , and the motor is definetly not turning

  • kb666kb May 01, 2010

    my model is ned5200tqo, the heater is working well

  • kb666kb May 01, 2010

    I looked over the entire heating element and there is no wires or anything touching bare metal

  • kb666kb May 01, 2010

    Yes i have a ohm meter

  • kb666kb May 01, 2010

    ,With the two leads still attached i read resistance

  • kb666kb May 01, 2010

    If you mean check between the two posts on the motor where the two large red wires where connected ,i have a open circuit

  • kb666kb May 01, 2010

    I disconnected the two big red wires from the heater leaving the orange wire attached,and iget a closed circuit when i touch either side of the element to the case

  • kb666kb May 01, 2010

    So replacing the heat element should cure everything

  • kb666kb May 01, 2010

    Thank you alot the first expert i talked to was sold only on the idea that the timer was bad which just cost me 115.00 for nothing

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster May 11, 2010

    The heater should not work. The motor has to be running. Why? The centrifugal switch inside the motor has to move to the run position before the heater element is engaged. Could it be that the motor is running but the drum is not turning?



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You either have a short in the heat element or the centrifugal switch on the motor is bad. The most common thing is a short in the element. If you can send me the model number from inside the door area I can help you determine which it is. You would need a basic mechanical ability.

Posted on May 01, 2010

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  • Philip May 01, 2010

    Can you take a good look at the heat element, it most likely has a part of the wire that is broken or something has fallen into it and is touching the case or ground.

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    The heater may be working well, but it may have a short in it causing it to heat when it is not suppose to. If it does you will be able to see the heat wire touching ground or the case

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    The heater is behind the dryer, remove the back panel and it is on the right rear corner, it has two screws on either side you can leave the wires on it while taking it off to inspect. Be SURE THE DRYER IS UNPLUGGED

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    Do you have an ohmmeter?

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    If you do, there will be 2 larger red wires on the motor. With the dryer unplugged you should read infinite resistance (no reading). If you read 0 ohms the centrifugal switch in the motor is bad

  • Philip May 01, 2010


    Here is the wiring diagram

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    That is not good, if you take the wire harness off the motor and read where the red wires were connected what do you get?

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    Ok, yes that is what I meant. Those should have been 1 and 2. That is good.

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    Humm, since your ohmmeter is handy humor me and disconnect the wires to the heat element, check from terminal to ground (case), that should read infinity (no reading)

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    If you get a closed circuit the element is shorted

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    That means the element is touching the case somewhere or something has fallen in the element compartment and shorting it to ground

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    yes it sure will, you should be able to see where the short is if you take the element out. It only has the 2 screws

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    The part number for that element is 279838 and is made by Whirlpool

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    Ouch, sorry to hear that. Glad we got to the root of the problem



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I have a kenmore dryer model #796.81172210 it continues to run until you open the door and will start up if you close it the door sensor

The door switch is working correctly. The drum should turn off and the heater is switched off when the door has been opened and they restart when the door is closed. If you are saying the timer has run down so there is no time remaining and the drum is still turning then the timer is failing to switch off these items.

Jan 04, 2015 | Kenmore Dryers


My refrigerator is running but not cold enough....

My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermister and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.

The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.

on Oct 01, 2010 | Refrigerators

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Dryer runs heats barely runs forever b4 clothes are dry

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.


Dryer will not shut off:

The timer: Located in the control console of the dryer the timer consists of a small motor connected to a series of gears that rotate cams, which turn electric contacts off and on inside the timer. The timer contacts control the dryer motor as well as the heat circuit and the timer motor itself. A defective timer motor or a defect in the timer's electrical contacts can cause the timer motor to fail and the timer will need to be replaced. The contacts can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made when the dryer is unplugged. Another test u can do is observe by eyesight and see does the timer advance or is it stuck on one cycle?

1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used.

2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer.

Aug 16, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

The timer didn't lose ant time off of it and the dryer didn't get warm at all? What is the problem do you think?

Dryer will not run
1. No power--check fuse & power supply
2. Loose wiring--check terminals & wiring
3. Door switch--make certain door closed properly to actuate switch
4. Defective motor---check motor.
5. Defective timer---replace timer

Runs but will not heat
1.loose wiring--check terminals & wiring
2. Defective thermostat--replace thermostat
3.defective centrifugal switch in motor--replace switch (check linkage to motor)
4. Defective timer--replace timer
5. Open heater element---replace heater element
6. Heat switch set to off----set switch for desired heat

Sep 21, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I left the refrigerator door ajar a little over night. When I noticed it the efrigerator was running, the freezer items still solid and the refrigerated items warm. The motor was unning. Now after I closed...

Unplug, wait a few minutes and replug. The defrost timer> HTS18BCPR Fresh Food Section #648 in that photo is possibly bad and stuck in defrost. Part=> WR09X0503 Defrost Timer


Click Here=> HTS18BCPRL_Freezer_Section See 618 and 620 in photo? 618 is=> WR51X10038 Defrost Heater


Click here=> WR50X10025 Defrost Thermostat

The most likely problem is a bad defrost thermostat and I want you or someone to carefully turn timer slowly clockwise until compressor and fans start again. If this works replace timer and problem solved. If you need me I will be here and please rate my solution, Thanks, Sea Breeze

May 01, 2011 | Hotpoint HTS18BCPR

1 Answer

Timer motor does not turn

make sure you purchased nthe correct timer and not a 220 volt timer for water heater use , you could still turn on and off manually but you would need 220 volt to run timer may sound silly but i have seen it several times before , look on the door plate and be sure it is a 120 volt 1 phase tmr motor

Jan 04, 2010 | Intermatic WH40 - Water Heater Time Switch...

1 Answer

Wont start door shut tight can heat timer drum lite on when door open

If you can hear the motor running with door is closed and the dryer is turned on, the the belt that turns the drum is likely off the drum or broken.

If you cannot hear the anything when the door is closed and the dryer is turned on, then the door switch is likely defective.

The other more unlikely causes are either the Timer or Switch that starts the dryer is defective.

Aug 21, 2009 | Kenmore 400 6942 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer wont start. starter switch is new and timer will run when the door is closed

HI. if the timer is running, and the wiring harness is in good condition, this will confirm motor failure. I would advise to test the operational value of the door switch as well but if the door switch is working, this will only lead to motor failure.

May 22, 2009 | Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Heat comes on, but no blower or tub motor.

1Check door switch, has to be closed to turn on motor.
2Motor is only 115V in USA so 1 breaker may be out and handles not thrown Reset breakers,
3 Switch on motor its self is only for heaters and you say it allows the heaters to come on and operate and still no motor?
Then here is your problem the motor switch is out. If the motor is not running then even the heaters should not operate. If they are and the motor is not running the motor centrifugal switch is stuck in the "RUN MODE" OR
If I have it wrong and the motor is actually running but nothing is turning the belt or idler is broken on the dryer drum and the motor is doing what it is suppose to.

May 08, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer continues to run.

look for a cool down thermostat on the fan body. this thermostat opens on cool, and is in the motor circuit, not the heater circuit as the other thermostats are. After the timer switches off the heater and motor, this thermostat keeps the motor running until the temperature drops below ~45C, drawing unheated air through the dryer. when they fail they weld closed and do not switch off

If knob does not move, there is likely a stripped nylon gear in the stepper motor for the timer
timer motors cost $~14 if available in your area, and attach to the timer body by two screws
rebuilt timers can be purchased at many parts stores, labelled as almost anybrand as many are interchangeable $~40
new timers are around $~60

Oct 09, 2008 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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