Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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The washer won't spin - Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Fout possibilities: (Ranging from easiest to messiest)


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the

washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section

on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf8525712

2007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using

an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the

washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?

newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor

coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6

inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to

put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they

don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?

newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf8525712

2007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


If you've tested the Lid Switch and the Motor Coupler is fine, and the clutch bands and springs and the washer sometimes

spins and other times doesn't the problem could well be the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for transmission operations on top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b

0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into

spin mode.

When ours had a similar problem, we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the

Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to

have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and

gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator

uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two

clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8

screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic

cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't

go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.


Posted on Apr 30, 2010

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Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.
Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.
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Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

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Drive Motor If the washer won't spin the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.

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