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SEVERAL THINGS TO LOOK AT, WITH A MULTI METER CHECK THE HEATING ELEMENT, THE HI-LO THERMOSTAT AND THE THERMAL CUT LOCATED ON THE HEATER, NOT THE THERMAL SHUT OFF, ALSO CHECK FOR FULL 240 VOLTS AT THE TERMINAL AND OUTLET? IF UR ONLY GETTING 120 YOU WILL HAVE ENOUGH POWER TO RUN MOTOR BUT NOT THE HEATER.
1. Close the dryer door and press the "Start" button for at least one
second. Some dryer brands require the button to be pressed for several
seconds. If the drum tumbles, you can eliminate the possibility of a
problem with the electrical circuit that supplies the motor.
2. Check all the connections on the back of the dryer. Many dryers have
two electrical circuits--one for the heat and one for the tumbling
motor. If the motor works, but there is no heat, check to see if the
larger plug is plugged into its receptacle. Your dryer may have two
plugs--one small regular household plug and one larger 240-volt plug
for the heat. Both must be plugged in for the dryer to work properly.
The larger, three-pronged 240-volt plug will not fit in a normal
household outlet; it needs a special dryer outlet. The plug cannot be
cut down to fit.
3. Check the circuit breakers or fuse panel if the dryer runs but there is no heat.
The problem was not in the dryer, but it was a loose wire in the plug or the outlet...I have seen this happen many times.. the wire gets loose and then because of the poor connection it heats up and starts a fire...
Replace the outlet AND the plug!!
The dryer pulls a lot of current but it is not the problem...
Here is a tip that will help you with changing your dryer plug.
Check to ensure you have 220v A/C to the dryer.
The dryer will run on 110v but will not heat.
Ck. the dryer cord where it connects to the dryer.
Some times one of the terminals on the cord may have burned up due to a bad connection.
Electric dryers are not sold with power cords since there are several different types of 220V outlets.
You may have a bad house fuse, Circuit breaker or 220V outlet.
After also checking the main selection switch (for perma press, normal, timed, etc.), which was also good, I finally started checking wiring. Found a wire burned in two. It was the red wire coming off the connections where the power cord connects to the dryer. Cut it, spliced it, put it all back together and it's now working as it should.
There should be a wiring diagram inside the operating console. Locate the thermal fuse and/or thermal cut-out and ensure they check good. They both should read close to a short if good. They are mounted adjacent to the heating element. If you have trouble locating the diagram and/or need further assistance isolating the problem, please post back with the dryer model number (located on the back of the console) and I will locate some diagrams to see if I can assist you further.
The Whirlpool Ultimate Care II cannot be outfitted for a standard 115 VAC wall outlet. Your dryer is a 220 VAC appliance. It needs to have it own dedicated 30 amp, 220 VAC circuit with the proper outlet and power cord installed. The dryer heating circuits and timer will not run on 115 VAC. I think you need to reconsider what you are about to do...
Frist need to check red and black for 220 at dryer cord the attached to dryer and see if you get 220 the way you discribed it can still be gettiong only 110 .. will bleed back from other side and give false reading.
check the hi limit themofuse on buner.. towards top on burner for continuity... check the burner thermostate, cycleing theomstate on outlet vent.. post if need more help