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McCulloch EB428 chainsaw and the auto oiler won't work

I have a McCulloch EB428 chainsaw and the auto oiler has stopped working. I can't seem to find why ad have cleaned all the area I thought would be cogging the flowof oil. The oiler worked fine and then the last time I used it no oil fowl tothe bar. Any ideas?

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Good on you for what attempted already. I looked at the print and it appears there is a worm gear (item 50) and a driven pump (item 61) behind the clutch. I suspect one of the 2 has failed. I know you have done most of this already But does it ooze with the bar off?
Oil System Plugged:

  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
  2. Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).

A link to the only IPL for a McCulloch EB428 follows:
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/MCC/EB428-Chainsaw/139.EB428-Chainsaw.1.59.1.html

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.

Posted on Apr 30, 2010

  • dontbother10
    dontbother10 Apr 30, 2010

    Sorry I am not thinking. This may be helpful with clutch removal.

    R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNU...


    1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).

    2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston.


    • I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it).

    • Make certain the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.


    1. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).

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