Question about Briggs & Stratton Briggs Stratton Intek V - Twin Vertical Ohv Engine with Electric Start 22 Hp, 1" X 3 5/32" Shaft, ModelNo. 44K777 - 0027 - E1

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Have a b+s 20hp v-twin intek motor attached to a snapper 2006 riding lawnmower. won't start. fresh gas. ran the tank empty before stored for winter. just replaced oil, oil filter, plugs, air cleaner... checked/ pulled battery: plenty of voltage to start. when attempt to start, there's a kinda buzzing noise. the motor will turn (barely) but won't fire. possible fuse blown or solenoid starter switch?? the machine has only 100 hrs of use c'mon. thanks for any help, gerard wisconsin and the grass is getting taller :(

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  • geeeforce1 Apr 29, 2010

    thanks for the advice. you stated that the buzzign sound is the fact that not enough amps to turn the starter motor. i did pull the battery (only 4yrs old) and had it tested at a shop... they said fine... don't need a new one.



    i reconnected the batery posts/ cleaned them up and still same problem. i don't think it's a fuel problem/ carb issue/ clogged fule filter, etc. i think purely electrical...



    thus does this machine (2006 snapper model LT 200, 20hp b+s) have any fuses that might have blown?? is so, where?



    i do think it's the ignition system nonetheless (starter, switch, solenoid)... i'm not versed in that kinda stuff. i do have a auto mechanic friend looking at it soon and really don't want to pay for shop repairs. i think if it is electrical... kinda soon only for 4 grass cutting seasons at total 100 hrs for this stuff to break or wear, don't you?? i can see the battery going but other than that, i'm very disappointed. i did or do yearly, all the preventative/ basic maintenance and still this. :(



  • geeeforce1 Apr 29, 2010

    one more note: once i find the problem, this motor isn't ruined is it? i'm very nervous that something got ruined or will get ruined internally with all this testing, and fry or seize the motor!



    it does have full-fresh oil, however, as mentioned in my first email.



    thanks,



    gerard

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  • 3,740 Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

That buzzing sound your hearing is a result of not enough amperage to rotate the starter motor.

Check all of the battery leads from the battery all the way to the starter including the ignition switch.

If all of the leads are good try using a set of battery jumper cables to test the starter.

1. Connect the cables in this manner:

a. Positive terminal to starter solenoid large post.
b. Negative terminal to the bare metal on the top of the starter or an engine mounting bolt.

2. If the starter works normally at this point, you either still have a problem with the factory battery wires or the battery itself for some reason has failed internally. You can eliminate the fatory wiring by connecting jumper cables direcly to the battery. If the starter works normally at this point the problem is for sure the battery.

3. You mentioned that you ran the tank empty before storage. This too can cause problems. It is better to either use a fuel stabilizer or just leave premium gas in the unit over the winter.
What may have happened is that the jet in the bottom of the carb or the bowl nut has clogged.

a. If you have determined that the starter and battery are fine and it still will not start here is what you can do to clean the carb:

Before you start.... if you have a digital camera take "close up" PICTURES of the linkages and springs attaching to the carb. If this is your first time you will be so glad you did. You can always delete them later if you don't need them. :)

Here is what you need to do:

1. Fuel selector off
2. Remove float bowl mounting screws and nut
3. Localte the Air fuel Jet on the side of the carb and count the number of turns it takes to close the Jet adjustment until it is just snug.
4. Remove the Jet / Orifice in side of Carb (spring on screw stem)
5. Using a catch fuel container turn on the fuel selector. Fuel should flow at a good rate. GENTLY lift the float assy level and make sure fuel flow shuts off. When you drop the float again fuel should flow.
If you do not have fuel flow at this point the needle and seat will need to be inspected. Fuel selector OFF.
(The following procedure is to be done only if there is no fuel flow with fuel selector on.)
a. Remove the float pivot pin.
b. Drop the Float down (The needle will come off with the float. NOTE the position)
c. Inspect the tapered rubber of the needle valve It should be pointed. If it is not pointed then the rubber tip is stuck inside the seat.
d. Clean the seat hole ONLY if obstructed. (Easily damaged)
e. FUEL Selector on then off fuel should rapidly flow through the needle seat.
f. Renistall Float and needle making sure to get the pivot / hinge pin installed correctly
g. Fuel selector ON. Raise and lower float checking for free movement with fuel flow when lowered and stopped when the float is raised level.
h. Some carbs have yet another BRASS orifice jet in the very bottom of the carb throat pick up tube. This orifice clogs especially when the engine has been stored. It gets a shellac substance in the pinhole of the orifice. Most of the time you can clean this with carb cleaner. If not remove it wht a GOOD flat bladed screwdriver and clean it. Then reinstall it.
6. If there still is no fuel flow at this point remove the fuel hose from the carb and check fuel flow. If no flow check that gas tank exit hole, fuel filter (if installed) and the selector valve assy for obstructions.

Reassemble connections.

FUEL FLOW IS GOOD

NOTE: If you have carb cleaner spray it into the side needle jet hole.

7. Install air fuel mixture needle jet in the side of the carb. Turn until closed and then back of the same number of turns it took to initially close it snug before removal.

8. BEFORE you install the float bowl inspect the bowl nut. There are holes in the side of the nut where it screws in to the bottom of the carb that must be clear. (could be no holes in yours)

9. Install Float bowl mounting screws and nut. Check for leaks.

10. Test engine.

That should do it.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

If you have "No Spark" just respond here and we can proceed with "what to do" at that point.

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • Kelly
    Kelly Apr 29, 2010

    Actually 4 years on a lawn mower battery is about as long as they are usable. You have been lucky to get that much service out of it. Everything your describing is a lack of amperage issue that is all Battery, wiring and starter related.

    Your not going to fry anything if you follow the jumper cable directions AND polarity in the first repsonse. A battery can have 12 VDC but still have worn or caked over battery plates to the point that it can not produce the amperage necessary to run the starter.



    Tell your friend that comes over to jump the battery at the battery posts first. If the starter wokes fine at that point you know the battery has seen its better days. I really think it will start if you do this.



    We really need to get the starter issue resolved before we can do anything else. I will stay with you on this.



    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly Apr 29, 2010

    I am looking at the LT200's with these model numbers 2690577 (38"), 2690578 (42"), 2690579 (44") and 2690580 (50") I will need your mower size to dig deeper if necessary in the future.



    Kelly



  • Kelly
    Kelly Apr 30, 2010

    My last thoughts are that the solenoid plate that is part of the starter assy "solenoid" can be corroded and not allowing enough current to pass across the plate to energize the stator & armature inside the starter. The plate can be cleaned but the solenoid must be removed from the starter to accomplish this cleaning the plate task.



    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly May 01, 2010

    I am just doing a follow up. I have heard nothing since 29 April. Is the unit repaired or do you still need assistance?



    Kelly

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