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Stopped working, had not been used for about 4 months, when switched back on started working ok, got to minus18 degrees and then cut out completely

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As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...


Posted on Apr 30, 2010


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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Chevy cavalier - rear brake lights don't work. The center rear brake light does work as well as all other lights. Replaced the bulbs and fuse - no luck. From what I have been told, the turn signal...

Stop Lamp Circuit Description
The STOP HAZ fuse in the IP junction block supplies battery positive voltage to the normally open stop lamp switch. When the driver presses the brake pedal, the switch contacts close and battery positive voltage is supplied to the center mounted stop lamp (CHMSL) and both left and right stop lamp assemblies. The left stop lamp is grounded at G304 and the right stop lamp is grounded at G304.

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Stop Lamps Inoperative

Inspect the 20 Amp STOP HAZ fuse.
Is the STOP HAZ fuse open?
YES - Go to Step 11
NO - Go to Step 3
Use a test lamp in order to backprobe connector C1 of the brake switch connector between terminal A and ground. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Does the test lamp light?
YES - Go to Step 4
NO - Go to Step 5
With the brake switch closed, Test for positive battery voltage at terminal B of connector C1. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Is voltage present?
YES - Go to Step 6
NO - Go to Step 7
Repair the open or short to ground in the Fuse Output-Battery between the fuse block and the brake switch. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Is the repair complete?
YES - System OK
Use a test lamp in order to backprobe the turn/hazard headlamp switch assembly connector C2 terminal A and ground.
Depress the brake pedal.
Does the test lamp light?
YES - Go to Step 8
NO - Go to Step 9
Inspect the adjustment of the brake switch. If the adjustment is correct, replace the brake switch.
Is the repair complete?
YES - System OK
Replace the turn/hazard headlamp switch assembly.
Is the repair complete?
System OK
Repair the open in Stop Lamp Switch Output between the brake switch and the turn/hazard headlamp switch assembly. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Is the repair complete?
System OK
With brake switch open test terminal A of the brake switch for continuity to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Is ground present?
YES - Go to Step 11
NO - Go to Step 12
Repair short to ground in Fuse Output-Battery Circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Is repair complete?
System OK
Test the Stop Lamp Switch Output Circuit for continuity to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Is ground present?
YES - Go to Step 13
NO - Go to Step 14
Repair short to ground in the Stop Lamp Switch Output Circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Is repair complete?
System OK
Test terminals F,G,B and C on the Hazard Warning Switch for continuity to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Is ground present?
Go to Step 15
Repair short to ground in suspect CKT. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Is repair complete?
System OK

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1 Answer

Acer z5610 suddenly turns OFF Temperature is normal, no overheat, new thermal grease System scanned for errors, viruses - nothing WHAT DOES IT MEAN?

Are you sure the temperatures are ok? When I run DIVX Plus Converter on the Z5610 the CPU (intel Q8200) is running (naturally) at a high load. Speed Fan 4.42 shows rising temperatures going north of 90 degrees C. If only DIVX Converter runs the temperatures of the CPU cores is around 92 to 94 degrees C. But if I start browsing the internet the temperatures go close to 100 degrees C. When one of the cores reaches 100 degrees C Speed Fan shows MINUS temperatures on the cores (-10 to - 20 deg C). Speed Fan is just monitoring as it can not even detect the Fan.
When that happens the Fan stops completely!! And short after that the computer switches of (same as if you would pull the plug).
Obviously there is a bug in the BIOS or the Motherboard which leads to interpretion of temperatures above 100 degrees C as MINUS temperatures which leads to the stop of the fan.
I am sure that also happens whenever you use a CPU intensive program (like a game or any other video converter/rendering program). You might download a temerature monitoring program (i.e. Speed Fan - its free) and see for yourself. Also listen whether the fan stops working compltely (goes completely silent) when the PC overheats and short before it switches off. Let's see what ACER says to that.
I used to like ACER. But first Aspire 4310 tripping frequently because the VGA chip overheats and now that stupid fault ==> never ever ACER again. I will use the Z5610 for internet surfing and get a real all-in-one which you can use. That is a clear sign for me that ACER does not test their machines at all under full load - or knowingly sells faulty machines.

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Whirlpool double oven Model#: RDB305PDB12 Ran self cleaning oven and it completed the cycle and unlocked. Lost power - checked breakers and they are ok. The oven now has no power to it. Any ideas? Thanks,...

there is a tco (thermal cut off) part under the control pannel.
the local electronics store had them but not the right temp. choices for me where 1 degree cooler or 7 degrees hotter. the part was under $4. online for the right temp they wanted $15.75 s/h. In my oven it was inline with a black wire. both ends had the knife quick connects and is covered in a thick clear plastic. Be carefull. I dont know how but the ribbon cable for the control pannel broke while i was working on it. :( this $4 part did bring the power back on but because of the cable issue no keys worked.

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Electrolux Oven EOB6630, similar to above

Hi, I've had a similar problem with my electrolux EOB4633. I've replaced the "thermal cut out unit" and it's working now. Basically this unit switches on the outer casing fan ( on top in my oven ) to keep the casing from overheating. When the thermal cut out doesn't work it fails to switch on the fan and the casing overheats, the oven then cuts out completely until it has cooled down and the cycle starts again.

The bit to be replaced ( part no 8996619267611 ) is located on top of the oven, under the outer cover, just behind the timer & selector switch. It's a small ( 1inch long ) silicon sleeve with 4 wires coming out of it, just unplug the wires and replace it with the new one ( unplug/disconnect the power to the oven, or switch of the power at the mains switch first ), then remove the oven outer top cover ( all you need is a screwdriver ). You'll see the offending unit, probably tie wrapped to one of the wire bundles, quite easily - mine was blackened and charred.

Good luck!

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