Gear change whats the best way to adjust the clutch cable and lever it slams into 1and 2 gear

Step 1 Pull back the rubber cover of the clutch lever to reveal the lock nut and adjusting screw. Loosen the lock nut with a wrench. Tighten the adjuster screw until it won't turn any more.
Step 2 Remove the left frame cover of the body of the bike and set it aside in a safe place. Remove the bolts holding the secondary gear case cover and the clutch release cover with a socket wrench. Remove the secondary gear case and clutch release cover and set them aside.
Step 3 Find the lock nut and screw located at the lower end of the clutch assembly cable. Loosen the lock nut. Loosen the screw by three rotations. Slowly finger tighten the adjusting screw until you start to feel resistance. Loosen the screw a quarter-rotation. Tighten the lock nut to hold it in place.
Step 4 Locate the lower cable adjuster above the clutch release cover. Loosen the two lock nuts of the adjuster with the socket wrench. Turn the cable adjuster screw and check the clutch lever as you turn. Tighten the adjuster screw until the clutch lever will wiggle loosely or "play" about 1/8-inch. Tighten the lock nuts.
Tighten the lock nut of the clutch lever. Replace the clutch release, secondary gear case and left frame cover. Pull the rubber cover back over the clutch lever.

You have more than likely got the new cable installed incorrectly. If all was working before the cable change, then you have done something wrong. First thing is to check your work. Next question is can you pull the clutch lever? If so, and there is no play there, then adjustment is probably all that is needed. First loosen the cable adjuster until to have loads of play in the lever. If you cannot achieve this, then you have installed the cable incorrectly. If you can get play, then remove the derby cover. Loosen the adjustment screw lock nut. Screw out the screw until it turns freely. Then gently turn the screw in until you can feel resistance. Back it off a half turn and tighten the locknut making sure the adjuster does not turn. Then adjust the cable adjuster until you have approx. 1/16" free play at the cable end where it enters the clutch lever perch.

The answer from Gregg is completely correct but I think you are asking how do I know it is correct.

Make sure you have the correct free play in the cable as Gregg said and the cable is free moving. To test for free movement pull clutch lever in half way and release it, it should snap back easily. Next start the engine and select first gear the gear should select easily, then select neutral this should also select easily.

Now try riding the bike and checking all the gears engage and dis-engage smoothly. The last test to try is find a street or road with a reasonable upward gradient. Maintain a steady speed in top gear and then start to accelerate if the clutch is correctly adjusted your revs and speed should increase progressively. If the revs increase and the speed drops off the clutch is slipping and needs to be re-adjusted.

Hope this is what you required and good luck

Because the clutch cable adjuster clearance increases with engine temperature, adjust
the clutch when the engine is cold. If the clutch is adjusted when the engine is hot, insufficient pushrod clearance can cause the clutch to slip.
1. Remove the clutch mechanism inspection cover and
quad ring
2. Remove the clamp and slide the rubber boot off the clutch in-line cable adjuster.
3. Loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the adjuster to provide maximum cable slack.
4. Make sure the clutch cable seats squarely in its perch at the handlebar.
5. At the clutch mechanism, loosen the clutch adjusting screw locknut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise until it is lightly seated.
6. Squeeze the clutch lever three times to verify the clutch balls are seated in the ramp release mechanism located behind the transmission side cover.
7. Back out the adjusting screw counterclockwise 1/2 to 1 turn. Then hold the adjusting screw and tighten the locknut to 72-120 in.-lb.(8-14 N•m).
8. Once again, squeeze the clutch lever to its maximum limit three times to set the clutch ball and ramp release mechanism.
9. Check the free play as follows:
a. At the in-line cable adjuster, turn the adjuster away from the locknut until slack is eliminated at the clutch hand lever.
b. Pull the clutch cable sheath away from the clutch lever, then turn the clutch cable adjuster to obtain the clearance gap
c. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the clutch in-line cable locknut and slide the rubber boot over the cable adjuster.
10. Install the clutch inspection cover quad ring onto the primary chain case cover.
11. Install the clutch inspection cover and tighten the screws to 84-108 in.-lb. (9.5-12 N•m).

You may want to make sure the clutch cable is properly adjusted. At the clutch lever on the handlebars, pull back the rubber cover over the end of the cable where it goes into the lever. You'll find a round lock wheel that you tighten to prevent the clutch cable adjustment from moving. Loosen that wheel then you can turn the clutch cable adjustment in or out to adjust the clutch engagement and take up. For those bikes, you want to adjust it so that there is a small amount of slack in the clutch lever. Look at the "crack" where the lever pivots when you pull on it. Adjust the clutch cable by turning that adjustment in or out until you have just barely enough opening to slip a nickel edge into the very outside of that "crack" when you apply very, very light pressure to the clutch lever (just enough pressure to take the slack out of the lever). Tighten the lock wheel back into place and try it now. Also, make sure you are using a good, FIRM foot pressure to engage each gear. If you don't engage firmly enough or the adjustment is out, then it will pop out of gear. You notice it more on the lower gears because the lower gears allow the engine to send more torque thru the clutch, thereby providing more force to make it pop out of gear.

If this doesn't help, then take it to a shop to see if it's simple worn clutch disks (easy to replace on this bike) or if the gears have worn teeth in the transmission.

Shifts hard,or bangs/slams in gear just means you need to take a bunch of play out of the clutch lever.Adjust the cable far enough that there is very little play in lever and the slam will go away.Clutch is dragging when you shift and won't allow gear alighnment smoothly,that's all.Need clutch fully open when shifting.

Good news, you just need adjust the clutch cable..

Always order the part for your model and year when getting parts and make sure it matches in length with the old one. Note how much cable is sticking out of the housing.
Is it 3 1/2 inches or 4 inches or 2 inches. make sure the new one matches.

Put the new cable on with lots of slack.Slack at the adjuster, and slack at the handlebar adjuster
Now pull the lever in, it will be easy because of the slack.let it stay there.
It will stay against the grip.
As you tighten the cable adjustment down by the cover, you'll notice the clutch lever move out.
Once it reaches the top, stop adjusting and pull it in again.
Continue adjusting and pulling the lever until the lever springs back to the top.
You can feel resistence which is the clutches disengaging.
Make sure there is 1/8" free play when the lever springs back.
Now turn the clutch cable adjust on the handlebar outward, which will remove the rest of the slack.
Only leave 2mm slack on the lever.

Now start your bike up and it should work like new.
You want your clutch to disengage within the first 1/2" of pulling the lever in.
This ensures the clutches are definately disengaged by the time you get the lever pulled back to the grip when shifting.

If your clutches are slipping or dragging no matter how you adjust the cable then your clutches may need replaced.
But sounds to me like its just an adjustment.
Hope to be helpful
Big Al

well if the clutch cable is adjusted all the way in, then the clutch disc, and plates would need to be changed, especialy if its hard to shift in and out of gear while running. there should be two adjustments, a top lever adjuster, and a bottom lever adjuster. always adjust the clutch componets fron bottom to top.

Disconnect the clutch cable at the case then see if the there is any resistance in the clutch lever in-out movement. When the tank was remounted the cable may have gotten pinched or moved out of proper routing. If I understand correctly, prior to the frame painting the clutch was okay, but after the paint it was not, and the left and right side cases and clutch were not touched. Obviously you used the wrong brand of paint. The clutch would have been fine if you had used Krylon brand paint. Post a comment and let me know what you find.

Hi!
I havn't come across your Machine before but hopefully a little Q 'n' A will solve/FiXya problem.
O.K. 1st is the clutch cable operated? if so can the cable should be adjustable from the handle bars?(Then take up the slack to leave a slight gap when lever is pulled) Do this by loosening the locking screw on the end of the cable and turning the adjuster anti clockwise so tension is put on the cable Not the lever.
If the cable isn't adjustable from lever go down to the engine and do the same as above on the cable there.
2nd Is the clutch fluid operated (Master Cylinder on clutch lever) If so look for clutch pushrod and adjust it by loosening again the locking nut and winding it out to create less gap between pushrod and clutch arm. You may need to bleed the system if after adjusting still the same.(Come back to me on that if needed)
3rd If when carried out the clutch starts slipping i.e. in top gear Engine Rev's and doesn't move forward well? then release the tension on either cable/pushrod until happy medium.
Good Luck!
Paul 'W'