I was wondering how to get the spool back onto clutch (spring) without removing everything. I had dirt get into the needle bearing and jammed up. i replaced the needle bearing and am trying to get the spool back on but am having a hard time doing so. is there an easier way to slide the spring for the clutch on?
I assume you are trying to re-install the clutch spring. It's going to be hard to do on the saw, but either way you choose to do it, I generally always hook the two ends of the spring together and then install it. Once you have it hooked together, get one part of the loop on. Hold this in place with a pair of vice grips or something similar. Then you should be able to stretch the remaining part of the loop in place. Be patient, it's not always the easiest thing to do. If all else fails remove the clutch and try it off the saw, it may be easier to do that way.
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I assume that you are speaking of a pull start mechanism.
I can not imagine how to put a put pull starter back on "wound tight".
Your pulling on the cord tightens a spring which pulls the cord back in.
They go back together with the cord fully wound onto the spool.
Usually, I only take these apart to replace the cord.
Wind the new cord onto the spool without handle.
Reassemble, then pull out on the cord a little when attaching the handle to the cord.
This is the only way to get tension onto the spring at the fully retracted position because the catch for the spring is on the machine and the spring itself is on the underside what you are assembling.
If you do not wish to shorten the cord or replace it, then remove the handle, assemble enough to catch the spring, wind one turn tighter then feed rope through hole and reattach handle. Easier said than done.
If your spring is broken, then you will be needing a new one.
found this on a web site should tell you what you need to know
I removed the screws from the bottom of the unit to separate mechanism that held the blades from the engine. This revealed a clutch on the end of the drive shaft. I removed the springs so I could remove the two halves of the centrifical clutch. I did this so I could then remove the mount these two halves were around. This mount had an arrow and the word 'off' on it. I placed a block of wood against this mount and hit the wood (protecting the mount) as to spin off the mount in the direction of the arrow. A few sharp licks with the hammer and the mount started to come off. I removed it by hand then. Next I removed screws and spark plug so I could get the green housing off where the cord was mounted. Inside this housing is a white spool the cord was on. Becareful with the next step. To replace the cord I removed the spool the cord is wound on but be careful, under the spool is a metal housing under which is the spring that rewinds the cord when you pull start the unit. The end of the white spool that is out of your sight meshes with the end rewind spring. If you pull too far up on the spring or the metal housing that keeps the spring in place you will have spring everywhere and possibly toward your face becareful. So Loosen the two screws and turn the tabs out of the way that hold down the white cord spool. Slowly work the white cord spool off. Replace the cord on the spool making sure you wind it in the proper direction. Then replace the spool and mesh it with the spring. Turn the spool to wind the spring and retention the pull cord rewinding spring. re assemble unit. Good luck! This is not a step by step but I believe it will get you what you need.
Yes, there is a spring, but it's not too bad to work with, but there will be a fair number of screws to remove. If this is like most simple mowers (using briggs & stratton engines and some others) the recoil starter is in an assembly which is spot welded onto a metal cover. You may have to first remove a plastic shroud (which might include the gas tank - which should have a shut-off valve). Then you should be able to remove the metal cover that includes the recoil starter. When you get that off you will see a plastic spool that holds the cord. This spool is probably held in place by a couple of metal tabs that are bent down. Bend those tabs up with pliers. Underneath the spool is a spiral spring that provides the recoil. Take careful note of how this all goes together. Buy a new cord (available by the foot at a hardware store) and wrap it around the plastic spool. Use a piece of tape to hold the end of the new cord above the spool so you can thread it through the hole in the metal housing later. Put the spring and the spool in place, then wind the spool to put tension on the spring - about 5 turns in the direction that would push the string out through the hole. Once you have the spring "wound up" remove the tape and thread the end of the cord through the hole. Now bend those metal tabs back down. Put the handle on the cord end (or tie a knot) to keep the spring from pulling the end of the cord back through the hole. Reassemble the rest and you are in business.
You didn't give a specific model, but on most briggs & stratton engines (which most toro mowers use) the recoil starter is in an assembly which is spot welded onto a metal cover. You may have to first remove a plastic shroud (which might include the gas tank - which should have a shut-off valve). Then you should be able to remove the metal cover that includes the recoil starter. When you get that off you will see a plastic spool that holds the cord. This spool is probably held in place by a couple of metal tabs that are bent down. Bend those tabs up with pliers. Underneath the spool is a spiral spring that provides the recoil. Take careful note of how this all goes together. Buy a new cord (available by the foot at a hardware store) and wrap it around the plastic spool. Use a piece of tape to hold the end of the new cord above the spool so you can thread it through the hole in the metal housing later. Put the spring and the spool in place, then wind the spool to put tension on the spring - about 5 turns in the direction that would push the string out through the hole. Once you have the spring "wound up" remove the tape and thread the end of the cord through the hole. Now bend those metal tabs back down. Put the handle on the cord end (or tie a knot) to keep the spring from pulling the end of the cord back through the hole. Reassemble the rest and you are in business.
You will have to remove the recoil assy if it can be removed without the air shroud or the entire upper engine cover / air shroud with the recoil. This procedure should be performed by 2 people that at NOT distracted.
First you will have to have a replacement rope. Burn the end of the new rope your going to install into the spool and pinch it so that the end is smaller than the rope and pointed. Install the pull handle on the new rope and make sure there is a good single knot on the end of the rope that goes into the pull handle.
Next you will have to remove all pieces of the old starter rope.
Then you have to pre-wind the spring of the recoil so that if you were to allow it to turn it would turn in a direction that would pull the starter rope onto the recoil spool
NOTE: Once the pre-wind is done if anyone lets go of the spool it can DAMAGE the recoil spring When your prewinding... Turn the spool until snugs and does not want to move anymore. Then back off the spool until the rope KNOT hole is aligned with the recoil rope guide.
Thread the new rope through recoil rope guide and into the KNOT hole in the spool. (Ice pick scribe jewlers screwdriver... will be required to pull the new rope up and out through the knot hole. TIE a KNOT in the bitter end of the rope and pull the knot into the knot hole.
FINALLY have 2nd person release the spool and it will rewind onto the spool.
Install the recoil / air shroud.
First you take the unit apart at the engine/shaft junction. Take a #15 Torx screwdriver into the end of the clutch and remover the driver. Once the clutch is clear, you have to remove it. Some people put a bolt of the same thread size as the spark plug into the plug hole far enough to touch the piston. When that is done, take a piece of hardwood and spin the clutch off. Use a hammer if you need to. Next, pull apart the engine from the casing. You now have the rope and spring at the end. If the spring has not come out of the metal ring, LEAVE IT ALONE! Replace the rope and leave the rope off the spool. Now carefully place the spool onto the spring and wind the spring tight while holding the rope in the cutout provided at the edge of the spool. Once you have the spring wound up, CAREFULLY allow the rope to retract. Attach the spool and re-assemble the unit in the reverse order you took it apart. Hope this is enough info. Please use caution when working with the spring. Good luck...Lee
You have to take the machine apart. The first thing is to separate the shaft from the engine. Then take off the shaft driver. There is a screw in the end. It takes a #15 TORX screwdriver. Once that is off, you have to spin off the clutch. To do that, hold the engine somehow and remove the clutch counter-clockwise. With that off, you can then remove the engine from the molding at the other end. The spool will be sitting on the rewind spring so BE CAREFUL. If the spring comes out it will be a big pain! Just lift the spool off, replace the rope and attach as the old one was. Now, you have the rope connected. Place the spool on the spring. Place the rope in the notch at the edge of the spool and slowly wind the spool on the spring. When you have it wound as far as you want, take the rope from the notch and into the spool. Allow the rope to rewind onto the spool. Put everything back as it was before you started and you have finished...Good luck...Lee
If the motor is running another possible solution is you have a broken drive shaft spring PN-753-04280
To check this remove the screw which holds the **** pipe to the motor and loosen the clamp. The **** pipe should pull right off the motor exposing the end of the drive shaft spring. Pull the end of the spring, if it comes out it is broken.
Sometimes dirt builds up at the beginning of the liner, at the drive. Eventually the dirt jams in there so much that it gets very hard to push the wire through it. Carefully cut the wire between the spool and the drive and secure it to the spool through a hole, so it doesn't unspool into a bird nest, then disengage the drive roller, the wire should pull out of the tip freely. If you feel resistance when you pull it out, either there is dirt at the beginning of the liner, or the contact tip is causing resistance. Without the wire in the drive, turn on the machine and try it watching the drive. Does the drive work freely now? Does it change speed with the rheostat? If its a problem with dirt, this is what I do, after you get the wire threaded back through the drive, liner and contact tip, and everything is working, take a small clean cotton rag and simply tie it around the migwire between the spool and the drive, in a way that the drive can't **** it in. This will constantly clean any dust/dirt off the wire before it goes through your expensive drive and liner. Whenever you change the spool, change the rag. Hope this helps, and please post your results.