As well as the two main connections to the motor there are other wires disappearing into a white plastic disk on the side of the motor - how does this come off the old motor? I'm a bit reluctant to just pull it off in case I break it
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Re: removing the old motor to replace
On that model If it has not been modified should be a main plug into the side of the motor with 8 wires will need a bit of a wiggle back and forth to release and a green and yellow earth wire to the body of the motor. there are not any other wires.I thimk you may have just disconnected the 2 brush wires which are with the motor anyway.Are you sure the main motor is faulty and not the carbon brushes.Try that and Good Luck.
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Check all wires and connections on and around fuse box with engine running also on and around engine like ign, and earth connections.
as the cause sounds like something is overheating or loose.
while engine running just tap with your hand up under and around the dash board assy.
my best advice is to sever the wires going into the unit at a point where they are in good condition, obtain a soldering device and solder, some heat shrink tubing addtiquit for the size of wire and connect your new power cord to the these ends, make cretin that the common or wight and the hot witch is black be connected respectively
The wiper motor on a Volkswagen is an electric motor connected through a drive linkage to the wiper arms. Windshield wipers are an integral feature for operating a motor vehicle safely. If your wipers are not functioning, or seem to lack the speed or power they used to have, the wiper motor should be removed and replaced immediately .
The wiper motor on a Volkswagen is located directly underneath the plastic cowl cover. The cowl cover is located directly below the windshield.
Begin by removing the wiper arms by prying off the covers at the base of the arms and removing the nuts that secure the arms to the drive shafts. Label the passenger and driver arms so they can be installed in the same positions. They are not interchangeable. Remove the rubber hood to cowl weather seal. Unscrew the plastic fasteners from the driver's side of the cowl cover, then remove this half of the cover. Remove the fasteners from the passenger's side cowl cover and remove this half of the cover. Disconnect the windshield wiper motor wiring harness by separating the plastic wiring connector. Remove the three bolts that secure the wiper motor to the vehicle's body. Pull the motor slightly away from the body, then remove the nut that connects the motor shaft to wiper linkage. Remove the motor.
Place the new wiper motor into position in the cowl and reconnect it to the wiper arm linkage. Then reinstall the three retaining bolts. Reconnect the plastic wiring connector to the wiper motor wiring harness. Place the cowl covers into position below the windshield and reinstall the plastic fasteners that retain them. Reinstall the rubber hood to the cowl weather seal. Reinstall the wiper arms in the same position you removed them from, along with the wiper arm retaining nuts and lower wiper arm covers. Turn the windshield wipers on and test for proper operation. If the wiper blades slap against the bodywork surrounding the windshield, loosen the nuts that connect the wiper arms to the shafts and adjust.
ITS CALLED SURGERY take picture as ya go and have a big bucket for screws. make sure you have your motor and capacitor tested first before you replace it unless you know its bad (hp,sf &rpm must match !!!! on new motor ) little guys are real expensive and are a three speed motor and must be hooked up right or you will burn it UP !
do this in the shade cuz it aint no fun in the hot sun(me Florida) the first thing i would do is oil the motor then have the capacitor checked , the motor may not need to be replaced just serviced ?.. hay now if'n i was any help write a review of thanks or just VOTE,, MOTORWIZJ ..FL
The LE error message means locked motor error and it is almost always accounted for an out-of-order Hall Effect Sensor. Other causes includes defective Main Board and broken wiring harness.
To check the Hall Effect Sensor:
Unplug the machine.
Remove the top plate assembly by unscrewing the two screws on the back of the top plate.
Look for the Main Board assembly on the rear left side of the machine.
Remove the power connector and sensor switch assembly.
Remove the Main Board assembly protection cover by releasing the latches along its sides.
Look for the 4-pin white connector with white, gray , red, and blue wires. It is the wiring harness going to the Hall Effect Sensor. Disconnect it from the board.
Using a multimeter, check the resistance between the white and blue wires and between the white and red wires. Resistance should read about 10k ohms.
If either resistance reads open, check for a broken wiring
harness and repair or replace as necessary. Otherwise, the Hall Effect
Sensor is defective and must be replaced.
If the tests above show that the Hall Effect Sensor seemed to be good, you have
to check if the Main Board delivers 10 to 15 Vdc supply to it.
Reconnect the machine to the power outlet.
Press POWER but DO NOT PRESS START.
Set the multimeter to DC volt and measure the voltage between white and gray wire terminals on the Main Board. Voltage should be 10 to 15 Vdc. Otherwise, the Main Board is defective and must be replaced.
Connect the red test lead to the red wire and the black test lead to the gray wire.
Turn the motor rotor slowly by hand.
You should measure a pulsating 10 Vdc if the Hall Effect Sensor is okay.
Repeat the step with the red test lead connected to the blue wire.
If you measure a 10 Vdc but not pulsating, the Hall Effect Sensor is defective and must be replaced.
Feel free to inform me if the Hall Effect Sensor or the Main Board needs to be replaced and if you want to replace it yourself.
The red and black wires supply power to the motor to either turn it one way or the other. The white wire is neutral. The motor is dc; look at the nameplate data and it tells you the operating voltage. Black and white make the motor turn one way, power to the red and white and it goes the other way. (Black neg. Red pos.)
I had this same issue and it was driving my wife nuts. Supposedly women hear high pitched sounds better than men? I called my local Appliance Parts Store, I advised them of my problem. My model # is GSH25KGRE BB GE Side by Side. (4 years old) They sold me a evaporator motor for $ 42.00. I was advised that this motor is accessed through the freezer door. After unplugging the refrigerator,I took the first self below the ice maker out, I removed the plastic light cover, there is a plastic piece with 4 slots in it, take the two 1/4 screws out and bend that plastic piece up. You will see the motor housing which needs to be removed I believe there are four more 1/4 screws. The motor itself will have a white fan attached to it which you will use on the new motor. Remove the fan via 4 more 1/4 screws you will also see the wire harness going up through one of the plastic pieces. This is where I had a little trouble, I couldn't get the harness to come apart from the plastic piece, I was afraid I would break something as hard as I was pulling. I decided to cut the 4 wires (red,blue,white,yellow) close to the old motor and splice in my new motor after cutting off the plug. I reassemble the unit and it solved the problem. I am the hero at our house and saved us from having to buy a new unit. My wife wasn't going to take it much longer. This is the part # WR60X10185.
Look In the rear bottom where the wires plug into the compressor. There will be a plastic cover plate over the connecting wires. Remove it. Unplug the white wire. note the white wire was plugged into a small black box (3/4"x3/4") pull the black box out. It is connected by 2 prongs. If you open this up you will find a small metal disk that looks like a watch battery. pop it out and clean the contacts. put it all back together and it should work fine. I believe it is the thermostat and many times gets bad contacts and can even crack over time. The compressor will "click" on but the bad thermostat tells it "no"
(0) unplug unit (1) Remove the bottom 4 screws, cover plate and motor shield ( 2) unhook the white motor wire from its binding clip ( 3) locate the plastic sleeve with the fuseable link (4) cut the sleeve and test for continuity between points on either side of link with ohmmeter (5) if no continuity, clip out fuseable link and and solder the white wire back together (6) cover with tape (7) rebind to other wires (8) replace bottom and check. This worked for me.