Question about Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W Portable Generator

IS IT POSSIBLE TO CONNECT TWO OF THESE GENERATORS THRU THE 110 PLUGINS AND HAVE 2000 WATTS ? DO THEY HAVE TO BE RATED WITH THE SAME WATTAGE?

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This cannot be done successfully with a standard generator.

Inverter based generators may have the ability to be paralleled with another of same exact type (like some Hondas and Yamaha), but these are the exception.

Unless your generator specifically offers the option, attempts to connect them will result in both electrical damage to the alternator, and likely mechanical damage to the engine.

I suspect that you are trying to get additional power to start a heavy load that a single generator isn't able to accommodate. You are able to use a storage battery in conjunction with a Trace Inverter to accomplish a similar goal. Once the battery is charged (by the inverter), the inverter will add generator power to inverter power to get the load started. This is a very expensive way to meet the goal. Better solution would be to trade or trade in your smaller generators for a larger generator that is suitable for your loads.

Posted on Jun 11, 2010

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NO! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS. The problem is that you cannot maintain the phase relationship between them. Both of the generators must turn at precisely the same speed and precisely together - which is virtually impossible without connecting the two generators together on a common shaft, which would be impractical to the point of ridiculous.

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

no

ac units are 2000 watts minimum, washing machines are 1500 watts minimum, microwave is what is on the plate and start at 650 watts but most are 2000 watts

the 2400 is the peak out put for start up of fridge , washer etc and the running wattage will be 2000 watts or less ( duty cycle )

to run more than one of the nominated items at once you will be needing a 5500 to-6500 watts unit

they handle a start up surge of 6500 watts ( larger one) and will comfortably handle 5500 watts run full load

it works like this , the plate on the gen set is the surge short time load capacity of the genset and not the duty load which is 500 to 750 watts less than that plate wattage

for example your 2400 is is surge rated at 2400 watts but duty load is less than the 2000 watts

many people make the mistake of buying a gen set that looks big enough but do not calculate the maximum load capable on being put on the gen set

fully loaded uses more fuel /hr

wears out faster

has power surges as the extra load cuts in and the motor struggles to get back to required rpms for voltage and cycles

will not cover extras like lights ,

a much large gen set will take it all in it's stride , no power surges, better economy, less stress

talk with an electrician , do your maths on everything you wish to run and that which you forgot about then add 1000 watts to the duty cycle and that will be close to the gen set you require

ac units are 2000 watts minimum, washing machines are 1500 watts minimum, microwave is what is on the plate and start at 650 watts but most are 2000 watts

the 2400 is the peak out put for start up of fridge , washer etc and the running wattage will be 2000 watts or less ( duty cycle )

to run more than one of the nominated items at once you will be needing a 5500 to-6500 watts unit

they handle a start up surge of 6500 watts ( larger one) and will comfortably handle 5500 watts run full load

it works like this , the plate on the gen set is the surge short time load capacity of the genset and not the duty load which is 500 to 750 watts less than that plate wattage

for example your 2400 is is surge rated at 2400 watts but duty load is less than the 2000 watts

many people make the mistake of buying a gen set that looks big enough but do not calculate the maximum load capable on being put on the gen set

fully loaded uses more fuel /hr

wears out faster

has power surges as the extra load cuts in and the motor struggles to get back to required rpms for voltage and cycles

will not cover extras like lights ,

a much large gen set will take it all in it's stride , no power surges, better economy, less stress

talk with an electrician , do your maths on everything you wish to run and that which you forgot about then add 1000 watts to the duty cycle and that will be close to the gen set you require

Oct 17, 2016 | Electrical Supplies

You really didn't provide much info to work with - Knowing the make & model & size (as well as its age) would be helpful. Also is it new or have you had it for a while? What test equipment do you have? In other words, what are you using to determine if it is putting out electricity? Has it ever worked? All generators have individual circuit breakers, so try resetting those. If they trip-out immediately then disconnect the generator from the load. reset the circuit breaker(s) again & recheck the output some other way, such as by connecting a table lamp to it. If that works, then consider the possibility that your generator may be too small for the load that you're trying to connect to it. For example, a 2000 watt generator is good for a working load of 1000 watts but is too small for a 2000 watt load. If this is your first experience with a generator, check out the web site www.electricgenerators.com and refer to their sizing charts. Lots of good info there.

Mar 15, 2016 | Electrical Supplies

The output of the generator is listed as a constant voltage and a maximum current or wattage - that could also be thought of as capacity.

Typically, it would be rated for 120 or 120/240 volts for generators sold in North America and the wattage could be as low as 3,000 - 5,000 to substantially more than that. If you were to look at the watts or amps while a connected light bulb were turned on, you would see the voltage stay at 120V, but the amps would go from 0 to .833 Amps - and the wattage from 0 to 100 (assuming a 100 W bulb). Next, connect a toaster - again the voltage stays at 120, but the amps and wattage would jump from .833A and 100W to 8 or 9 amps and 1100 watts. As soon as the toast was done - the amps and wattage would drop back to .833A and 100W. The same could hold true for a well pump or air conditioner that is connected to the generator.. these devices turn on and off automatically as determined by a pressure switch or thermostat. Seeing a wattage or current that fluctuates is normal as the amount of power needed from the generator changes as the devices turn on and off by them selves.

Also, it is not unusual for motor operated devices to draw 2 or 3 times as much amps or wattage during the first few seconds when starting as opposed to what it uses when running.

Typically, it would be rated for 120 or 120/240 volts for generators sold in North America and the wattage could be as low as 3,000 - 5,000 to substantially more than that. If you were to look at the watts or amps while a connected light bulb were turned on, you would see the voltage stay at 120V, but the amps would go from 0 to .833 Amps - and the wattage from 0 to 100 (assuming a 100 W bulb). Next, connect a toaster - again the voltage stays at 120, but the amps and wattage would jump from .833A and 100W to 8 or 9 amps and 1100 watts. As soon as the toast was done - the amps and wattage would drop back to .833A and 100W. The same could hold true for a well pump or air conditioner that is connected to the generator.. these devices turn on and off automatically as determined by a pressure switch or thermostat. Seeing a wattage or current that fluctuates is normal as the amount of power needed from the generator changes as the devices turn on and off by them selves.

Also, it is not unusual for motor operated devices to draw 2 or 3 times as much amps or wattage during the first few seconds when starting as opposed to what it uses when running.

May 18, 2015 | Electrical Supplies

As you have not provided me with the information I requested I'm going to have to take a few guesses here Bob. You could be overloading the generator. You can't run a 10,000 BTU air conditioner off of a 1000 watt generator. You need to look at your load, (what you are trying to power), and determine how much power it needs. Almost everything has a tag somewhere on the device. Most don't give watt requirements. But they do tell you, how many amps the device pulls, as well as the voltage the device needs. So you need to do some math here. Volts X Amps = Watts. So if we have a 120 volt device, that pulls 15 amps, we need 1800 watts to power it. But it gets a little more tricky than that. Motors are often rated at what they pull while they are running! But it can take two or three times more power to get them started. Example... A motor rated at 10 amps, using 120 volts will be 120 X 10 = 1200 watts. But it could take 2400-3600 watts to get it running. So in theory a 3000 watt generator may die before it can start that load. Heating elements are also power hungry! Let's say you have a small 800 watt generator, and your just trying to run a simple coffee pot! Well the heating element in a typical coffee pot pulls 1000-1500 watts. A hair dryer or microwave oven rated at 1000 watts, is the power they produce, not the power they consume! So a 1000 watt microwave may pull 1600 watts of power to run. Most non US generators are highly over rated as well. I certainly would not trust a Harbor Freight 3000 watt generator to actually put out 3000 watts of power. Not that they are bad units, I would expect their numbers to be under PERFECT conditions. Temperature, humidity and altitude also play a part! Your 3000 watt generator is going to put out more power at 50 degrees, at sea level, than it is at 7000 ft in the mountains at 100 degrees. So my "guess" Bob, is that your just asking more from the generator than it can produce. Picking out a generator is not as easy as it looks. "Hey that one is $1000 and this one is $300! They both make power! What's the difference". The difference is what do you need to run! "Heck I'll just get that 50,000 watt unit"! Yeah you can do that too, but you will never use that much power, and you will burn way more fuel than you need to. My other "guess" is that you have a governor issue on the engine. As load increases the gov will throw more throttle to the motor. My generator has an option to run full speed or on the gov. So it will idle and burn less fuel while I am hammering in a nail, then go to full power when I trigger a saw connected to it. Lot's of factors involved here Bob.

May 30, 2014 | Generac Electrical Supplies

One consideration is how many circuits and how much total wattage is being used when the generator is in service.

"Gas Powered Generator GG2300 2300 Watts Surge 2000 Watts Continuous Output 10 Hours of Run Time at Full ."

This is a relatively small generator with 2000 watts output, so the problem may be that the generator can not handle the wattage demand. You can get a pretty good estimate of the wattage demand by adding up the wattage of everything , all lights, appliances, etc that's being powered by the generator. If the total wattage is greater than the output of the generator (2000 watts) then the generator is too small.

"Gas Powered Generator GG2300 2300 Watts Surge 2000 Watts Continuous Output 10 Hours of Run Time at Full ."

This is a relatively small generator with 2000 watts output, so the problem may be that the generator can not handle the wattage demand. You can get a pretty good estimate of the wattage demand by adding up the wattage of everything , all lights, appliances, etc that's being powered by the generator. If the total wattage is greater than the output of the generator (2000 watts) then the generator is too small.

May 21, 2014 | UST GG2300 Portable Gas Powered Generator

Steve,

The microwave alone shouldn't cause a problem for the generator as even the most powerful models run about 1200 watts or about 10 amps. An air conditioner on the other hand, can draw considerably more power to run depending on BTU size; 15 amps and up is not uncommon (and even twice as much as that though only briefly when starting).

If these were the only things connected and on, the generator should be able to handle them - again depending on the BTU size of the AC unit. Generators state their capacity in Watts, but must of the devices we connect are in Amps. Calculating Watts in an AC circuit is complicated, but pretty close to the much easier Watts in a DC circuit for most residential settings. Here's how it's done:

Watts = volts x amps. Pretty simple stuff. Your generator is rated at 5500 watts. The microwave is say, 120 volts / 10 amps - which equals 1200 watts. The generator has 4300 capacity available now. Suppose your air conditioner is rated at 120 volts / 15 amps - which equals 1800 watts. 4300watts - 1800watts = 2400watts capacity is left. But, the starting current for the AC is as much as 25 amps for a few seconds (and once started drops back to 15 amps) - which means there's only 1200 watts capacity left. Add up the rest of the appliances you're running at the same time (TV set, Cable / Satellite box, stereo, toaster, lights, computer, etc.- you get the idea), and you can see how you might have exceeded the 5500 watts capacity of the generator for a few seconds. It's at these times that your hear / see the generator speed falter and sputter, lights dim, etc.. If this is happening a lot, you may need a larger or additional generator.

I hope this helps and good luck!

The microwave alone shouldn't cause a problem for the generator as even the most powerful models run about 1200 watts or about 10 amps. An air conditioner on the other hand, can draw considerably more power to run depending on BTU size; 15 amps and up is not uncommon (and even twice as much as that though only briefly when starting).

If these were the only things connected and on, the generator should be able to handle them - again depending on the BTU size of the AC unit. Generators state their capacity in Watts, but must of the devices we connect are in Amps. Calculating Watts in an AC circuit is complicated, but pretty close to the much easier Watts in a DC circuit for most residential settings. Here's how it's done:

Watts = volts x amps. Pretty simple stuff. Your generator is rated at 5500 watts. The microwave is say, 120 volts / 10 amps - which equals 1200 watts. The generator has 4300 capacity available now. Suppose your air conditioner is rated at 120 volts / 15 amps - which equals 1800 watts. 4300watts - 1800watts = 2400watts capacity is left. But, the starting current for the AC is as much as 25 amps for a few seconds (and once started drops back to 15 amps) - which means there's only 1200 watts capacity left. Add up the rest of the appliances you're running at the same time (TV set, Cable / Satellite box, stereo, toaster, lights, computer, etc.- you get the idea), and you can see how you might have exceeded the 5500 watts capacity of the generator for a few seconds. It's at these times that your hear / see the generator speed falter and sputter, lights dim, etc.. If this is happening a lot, you may need a larger or additional generator.

I hope this helps and good luck!

Dec 25, 2011 | Watts Onan Portable Generator - 5000 ,...

You're not going to be able to do this with just a known Horse Power.

There are 3 elements to the equation, with any two, you can work out the third.

If you want to know how the amperage, you will need to know the voltage and wattage of the motor. I imagine that you already know the voltage (It's going to be 220V or 110 volt)

Watts divided by volts = Amps

Examples:

A 220v 1000 watt motor (1000 divided by 220) will draw 4.55 amps

A 110v 800 watt motor (800 divided by 110) will draw 7.27 amps

Bear in mind that most washing machines have a couple of windings for wash and spin. As an average, the was winding will usually be about 500 watts to spin and about 250 watts to wash. ALSO, bear in mind that if you are using this data for a WASHING MACHINE, then there is a water heating element in there too and that draws about 2Kw (2000 watts)

Dont just take this as read, you DO need to check wattages, but, working on what I have just said, the max consumption on a 220V machine will look like this:

At Spin, with a 500 Watt consumption: (500/220) = 2.3 amps

While Washing with a 250 watt consumption: (250/220) = 1.14 amps

Consider that the WASH and HEAT may be running at the same time.

2Kw heating (2000/220) = 9.1 amps PLUS 1.14 amps for the motor - Total wattage 10.24 amps

Watts / Volts = Amps

Amps x Volts = Watts

Watts divided by amps = Volts

There are 3 elements to the equation, with any two, you can work out the third.

If you want to know how the amperage, you will need to know the voltage and wattage of the motor. I imagine that you already know the voltage (It's going to be 220V or 110 volt)

Watts divided by volts = Amps

Examples:

A 220v 1000 watt motor (1000 divided by 220) will draw 4.55 amps

A 110v 800 watt motor (800 divided by 110) will draw 7.27 amps

Bear in mind that most washing machines have a couple of windings for wash and spin. As an average, the was winding will usually be about 500 watts to spin and about 250 watts to wash. ALSO, bear in mind that if you are using this data for a WASHING MACHINE, then there is a water heating element in there too and that draws about 2Kw (2000 watts)

Dont just take this as read, you DO need to check wattages, but, working on what I have just said, the max consumption on a 220V machine will look like this:

At Spin, with a 500 Watt consumption: (500/220) = 2.3 amps

While Washing with a 250 watt consumption: (250/220) = 1.14 amps

Consider that the WASH and HEAT may be running at the same time.

2Kw heating (2000/220) = 9.1 amps PLUS 1.14 amps for the motor - Total wattage 10.24 amps

Watts / Volts = Amps

Amps x Volts = Watts

Watts divided by amps = Volts

Aug 25, 2011 | Washing Machines

Hi Glen,

Welcome to fixya!

You would have to check the capacity of your generator. If it can handle 220 volts and the amp rating of the floor sander does not exceed the amp rating of the generator, you should be good to go.

Good luck.

When you accept this solution, please place a vote for me.

Thanks,

Handie Andie

Welcome to fixya!

You would have to check the capacity of your generator. If it can handle 220 volts and the amp rating of the floor sander does not exceed the amp rating of the generator, you should be good to go.

Good luck.

When you accept this solution, please place a vote for me.

Thanks,

Handie Andie

Aug 19, 2011 | Garden

Your cutter machine may use more power than your whole house depending on the size of motor. A one horsepower motor 115v will use about 3000 watts to start and about 1000watts to run. To estimate how much power you need, add up all the watts that you will use at home and add to that estimated wattage of the cutter motor (motor will use 3x rated wattage to start plus loss of power thru the extension cord). Buy a generator that will give you needed power and still have a 25 percent reserve. If you need 2000 watts on a continued basis, the 2800 watt may be good, however I would be more comfortable with a 3500 watt if the price was right because of the cutter machine. I would consider converting the cutter to gas power and buy a smaller generator to save on gas since you will be most likely running the generator far longer to power the house. Good luck

Aug 11, 2011 | Yamaha 2500 Watt Industrial Inverter...

I can't find an online manual for the model of the appliance you are talking about, so I'm unable to figure out the wattage it draws. Nor do I know where you are in the world and the voltage you are running at, so I can't tell you straight off. But I can tell you how to figure it out very easily:

I imagine that know what your main power supply voltage is (either 240 volt or 110 volt).

You can look at the appliance and there will be a data sticker with the wattage rating on it somewhere (or it will be in the install/Owner manual).

Now you have these 2 bits of information we can do a simple sum:

Watts divided by Volts = Amps

Therefore example calculations look like this:

If you have a 500 watt appliance on a 240 volt system 500/240 = 2.083 so use a 3 amp fuse

An appliance with a 750 watt motor on 240 volts: 750/240 = 3.12 so use a 5 amp fuse

A 2KW (2000 watt) appliance like a hot air blower on a 240 volt system: 2000/240 = 8.33 amps so use a 10 amp (or more commonly 13 amp) fuse

A 500 watt motor on a 110 volt supply 500/110 = 4.5 so use a 5 amp fuse

A 1KW (1000 Watt) appliance at 110 volts: 1000/110 = 9.09 amps so use a 10 amp (or more commonly 13 amp) fuse

etc etc etc.....

If the sum comes out below 13 amps, you can use a 13 amp plug. If it doesn't you need to hardwire it into a proper cooker supply.

I imagine that know what your main power supply voltage is (either 240 volt or 110 volt).

You can look at the appliance and there will be a data sticker with the wattage rating on it somewhere (or it will be in the install/Owner manual).

Now you have these 2 bits of information we can do a simple sum:

Watts divided by Volts = Amps

Therefore example calculations look like this:

If you have a 500 watt appliance on a 240 volt system 500/240 = 2.083 so use a 3 amp fuse

An appliance with a 750 watt motor on 240 volts: 750/240 = 3.12 so use a 5 amp fuse

A 2KW (2000 watt) appliance like a hot air blower on a 240 volt system: 2000/240 = 8.33 amps so use a 10 amp (or more commonly 13 amp) fuse

A 500 watt motor on a 110 volt supply 500/110 = 4.5 so use a 5 amp fuse

A 1KW (1000 Watt) appliance at 110 volts: 1000/110 = 9.09 amps so use a 10 amp (or more commonly 13 amp) fuse

etc etc etc.....

If the sum comes out below 13 amps, you can use a 13 amp plug. If it doesn't you need to hardwire it into a proper cooker supply.

Jul 29, 2011 | Stoves Ovens

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