Question about Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W Portable Generator

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2 generators 1000 watts invertors

IS IT POSSIBLE TO CONNECT TWO OF THESE GENERATORS THRU THE 110 PLUGINS AND HAVE 2000 WATTS ? DO THEY HAVE TO BE RATED WITH THE SAME WATTAGE?

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This cannot be done successfully with a standard generator.

Inverter based generators may have the ability to be paralleled with another of same exact type (like some Hondas and Yamaha), but these are the exception.

Unless your generator specifically offers the option, attempts to connect them will result in both electrical damage to the alternator, and likely mechanical damage to the engine.

I suspect that you are trying to get additional power to start a heavy load that a single generator isn't able to accommodate. You are able to use a storage battery in conjunction with a Trace Inverter to accomplish a similar goal. Once the battery is charged (by the inverter), the inverter will add generator power to inverter power to get the load started. This is a very expensive way to meet the goal. Better solution would be to trade or trade in your smaller generators for a larger generator that is suitable for your loads.

Posted on Jun 11, 2010

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NO! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS. The problem is that you cannot maintain the phase relationship between them. Both of the generators must turn at precisely the same speed and precisely together - which is virtually impossible without connecting the two generators together on a common shaft, which would be impractical to the point of ridiculous.

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

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1 Answer

Generator will run, wont output electricity


You really didn't provide much info to work with - Knowing the make & model & size (as well as its age) would be helpful. Also is it new or have you had it for a while? What test equipment do you have? In other words, what are you using to determine if it is putting out electricity? Has it ever worked? All generators have individual circuit breakers, so try resetting those. If they trip-out immediately then disconnect the generator from the load. reset the circuit breaker(s) again & recheck the output some other way, such as by connecting a table lamp to it. If that works, then consider the possibility that your generator may be too small for the load that you're trying to connect to it. For example, a 2000 watt generator is good for a working load of 1000 watts but is too small for a 2000 watt load. If this is your first experience with a generator, check out the web site www.electricgenerators.com and refer to their sizing charts. Lots of good info there.

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How do you stop generator from stalling under load


As you have not provided me with the information I requested I'm going to have to take a few guesses here Bob. You could be overloading the generator. You can't run a 10,000 BTU air conditioner off of a 1000 watt generator. You need to look at your load, (what you are trying to power), and determine how much power it needs. Almost everything has a tag somewhere on the device. Most don't give watt requirements. But they do tell you, how many amps the device pulls, as well as the voltage the device needs. So you need to do some math here. Volts X Amps = Watts. So if we have a 120 volt device, that pulls 15 amps, we need 1800 watts to power it. But it gets a little more tricky than that. Motors are often rated at what they pull while they are running! But it can take two or three times more power to get them started. Example... A motor rated at 10 amps, using 120 volts will be 120 X 10 = 1200 watts. But it could take 2400-3600 watts to get it running. So in theory a 3000 watt generator may die before it can start that load. Heating elements are also power hungry! Let's say you have a small 800 watt generator, and your just trying to run a simple coffee pot! Well the heating element in a typical coffee pot pulls 1000-1500 watts. A hair dryer or microwave oven rated at 1000 watts, is the power they produce, not the power they consume! So a 1000 watt microwave may pull 1600 watts of power to run. Most non US generators are highly over rated as well. I certainly would not trust a Harbor Freight 3000 watt generator to actually put out 3000 watts of power. Not that they are bad units, I would expect their numbers to be under PERFECT conditions. Temperature, humidity and altitude also play a part! Your 3000 watt generator is going to put out more power at 50 degrees, at sea level, than it is at 7000 ft in the mountains at 100 degrees. So my "guess" Bob, is that your just asking more from the generator than it can produce. Picking out a generator is not as easy as it looks. "Hey that one is $1000 and this one is $300! They both make power! What's the difference". The difference is what do you need to run! "Heck I'll just get that 50,000 watt unit"! Yeah you can do that too, but you will never use that much power, and you will burn way more fuel than you need to. My other "guess" is that you have a governor issue on the engine. As load increases the gov will throw more throttle to the motor. My generator has an option to run full speed or on the gov. So it will idle and burn less fuel while I am hammering in a nail, then go to full power when I trigger a saw connected to it. Lot's of factors involved here Bob.

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Steve,

The microwave alone shouldn't cause a problem for the generator as even the most powerful models run about 1200 watts or about 10 amps. An air conditioner on the other hand, can draw considerably more power to run depending on BTU size; 15 amps and up is not uncommon (and even twice as much as that though only briefly when starting).

If these were the only things connected and on, the generator should be able to handle them - again depending on the BTU size of the AC unit. Generators state their capacity in Watts, but must of the devices we connect are in Amps. Calculating Watts in an AC circuit is complicated, but pretty close to the much easier Watts in a DC circuit for most residential settings. Here's how it's done:

Watts = volts x amps. Pretty simple stuff. Your generator is rated at 5500 watts. The microwave is say, 120 volts / 10 amps - which equals 1200 watts. The generator has 4300 capacity available now. Suppose your air conditioner is rated at 120 volts / 15 amps - which equals 1800 watts. 4300watts - 1800watts = 2400watts capacity is left. But, the starting current for the AC is as much as 25 amps for a few seconds (and once started drops back to 15 amps) - which means there's only 1200 watts capacity left. Add up the rest of the appliances you're running at the same time (TV set, Cable / Satellite box, stereo, toaster, lights, computer, etc.- you get the idea), and you can see how you might have exceeded the 5500 watts capacity of the generator for a few seconds. It's at these times that your hear / see the generator speed falter and sputter, lights dim, etc.. If this is happening a lot, you may need a larger or additional generator.

I hope this helps and good luck!

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1 Answer

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You're not going to be able to do this with just a known Horse Power.

There are 3 elements to the equation, with any two, you can work out the third.

If you want to know how the amperage, you will need to know the voltage and wattage of the motor. I imagine that you already know the voltage (It's going to be 220V or 110 volt)

Watts divided by volts = Amps

Examples:

A 220v 1000 watt motor (1000 divided by 220) will draw 4.55 amps
A 110v 800 watt motor (800 divided by 110) will draw 7.27 amps

Bear in mind that most washing machines have a couple of windings for wash and spin. As an average, the was winding will usually be about 500 watts to spin and about 250 watts to wash. ALSO, bear in mind that if you are using this data for a WASHING MACHINE, then there is a water heating element in there too and that draws about 2Kw (2000 watts)

Dont just take this as read, you DO need to check wattages, but, working on what I have just said, the max consumption on a 220V machine will look like this:

At Spin, with a 500 Watt consumption: (500/220) = 2.3 amps
While Washing with a 250 watt consumption: (250/220) = 1.14 amps

Consider that the WASH and HEAT may be running at the same time.
2Kw heating (2000/220) = 9.1 amps PLUS 1.14 amps for the motor - Total wattage 10.24 amps

Watts / Volts = Amps
Amps x Volts = Watts
Watts divided by amps = Volts

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I can't find an online manual for the model of the appliance you are talking about, so I'm unable to figure out the wattage it draws. Nor do I know where you are in the world and the voltage you are running at, so I can't tell you straight off. But I can tell you how to figure it out very easily:

I imagine that know what your main power supply voltage is (either 240 volt or 110 volt).
You can look at the appliance and there will be a data sticker with the wattage rating on it somewhere (or it will be in the install/Owner manual).


Now you have these 2 bits of information we can do a simple sum:

Watts divided by Volts = Amps

Therefore example calculations look like this:


If you have a 500 watt appliance on a 240 volt system 500/240 = 2.083 so use a 3 amp fuse
An appliance with a 750 watt motor on 240 volts: 750/240 = 3.12 so use a 5 amp fuse

A 2KW (2000 watt) appliance like a hot air blower on a 240 volt system: 2000/240 = 8.33 amps so use a 10 amp (or more commonly 13 amp) fuse
A 500 watt motor on a 110 volt supply 500/110 = 4.5 so use a 5 amp fuse

A 1KW (1000 Watt) appliance at 110 volts: 1000/110 = 9.09 amps so use a 10 amp (or more commonly 13 amp) fuse

etc etc etc.....


If the sum comes out below 13 amps, you can use a 13 amp plug. If it doesn't you need to hardwire it into a proper cooker supply.

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Hi,
Battery to invertor should be quiet clear. Attach the positive then the negative lead.

There needs to be a special socket in the wall. Buy a normal three pin socket. Go to the mains. Take the line coming in and connect it to the L ('Live') marked pin. It is left one. Now take the other pin and trace it back to where electricity was originally going. What you have done is basically placed a socket in the line. See diag below:
1f4b4dd.png

Now take a plug. see diag and connect so that it has live going into the invertor and invertor supply coming out.
18e08e7.png

So basically you have looped the supply thru the invertor.
Be sure to read the manual. Certain invertors may have other wiring.

Electricians are cheap. Get one. It will be worth it, in case you are unsure.

Cheers
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1 Answer

My inverter is in alarm and won't produce 110 power. Checked input voltage and it is correct.


I have had this happen a few times.

Sadly replacement is the Best option.
Repairs can be %75 the cost of a new one.

The best invert we have been using is a Pure Sine 1500 watt inverter.

Sad news but hope this tip helps.

R/
David

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Less expensive to replace the heating element. But if you already have a 1000 watt transformer then just go that route

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Hi, Surely that is the correct output? Gensets usually put out 240 and 110 or just 110. Alan

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