Question about John Deere Tractor Side Screen 1050,1520,2020,2030

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Can't remove fuel injection pump from block

Hi, No fuel is being pumped from the fuel injuection pump on my JD 1050. I am in the process of removing pump but after removing all connecting items as per repair manual, I can't get pump out of block opening. There seems to be a pin extending out of the inside of the pump prohibiting it from passing through opening.
Would appreciate your help,

Gary

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John Deere makes a good product. I was wondering why you are trying to remove the injection pump.
I have seen more problems with a broken fuel line then motor related problems.
If the injection pump looses its prime (air bound) it needs to be reprimed. The lift-pump on the side of the engine, have you inspected that?
What have you done so far that has lead you to believe that the injection pump is bad?
If you go to the section of the repair manual for injection pump timing, there you will find the answer for removing the injection pump. Let me know how your making out.

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

  • andy849 Jun 21, 2011

    I have the same problem with my 1050 and the rod that protrudes out of the side of the pump preventing it from coming out is in fact the "control rack" or throttle mechanism. When it is sticking out, the throttle is in the off position and this is the reason the pump is not pumping. The problem is to be able to free this to either get the pump to pump again or to get it out. Any way you slice it, this rod needs to be able to retract back into the IP housing.

    I am in fact still grappling for a solution myself so if anyone else has encountered this and found a solution, do tell.

    Thanks

    Andy

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How to remove gas pump?


Depends what you are working on. Newer fuel injected cars have pumps iside the gas tank. Some cars have a access cover in the trunk, but most require removing the fuel tank for access. Older engines had mechanical pumps located on the engine block.

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I have JD 935 that runs fine for 10 mins then idles down. Never fully quits running. Changed fuel filters, lines, pump...


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4cyl diesel Ford tractor. Ran great yesterday . Today it starts and cuts off. Any ideas?


Is the fuel flow strong at the injection pump ? If not you may have a partial blockage inside the tank, wouldn't hurt to change the fuel filters either. I had a similar problem with my 350 JD dozer
I checked the tank and found some debris covering the outlet hole,
debris removed problem fixed.
Also check all your fuel lines, if all the above is good, than start cracking each injector one at a time with the machine running
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2.8 crd injection pump


alldata.com, log in and read that yet?
did you look at this near FSM?
the 21 steps, read them yet?. did you make it to step 21,?
quote
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  2. Remove engine cover and bracket.
  3. Evacuate A/C system.
  4. Remove accessory drive belt.
  5. Remove cooling fan and fan shroud.
  6. Remove charge air cooler outlet hose to intake manifold.
  7. Remove fan support assembly.
  8. Remove timing belt outer cover.
  9. Using special tool VM.1055, remove high pressure injection pump sprocket retaining nut.
  10. Install feet from VM.1067 in injection pump sprocket as shown.
  11. Install inner flange of special tool VM.1067 on injection pump sprocket as shown. Secure flange to feet in injection pump sprocket with Allen bolts supplied with tool.
  12. Screw the high pressure injection pump sprocket holding plate assembly into flange of VM.1067. Using left hand threaded bolt supplied, secure holding pl
  13. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section. CAUTION High pressure lines deliver diesel fuel under extreme pressure from the injection pump to the fuel injectors. This may be as high as 23,200 psi.(1600 bar). Use extreme caution when inspecting for high pressure fuel leaks. Fuel under this amount of pressure can penetrate skin causing personal injury or death. Inspect for high pressure fuel leaks with a sheet of cardboard. Wear safety goggles and adequate protective clothing when servicing fuel system.
  14. ate assembly to timing belt inner cover.
  15. Disconnect A/C lines at compressor.
  16. Remove charge air inlet hose.
  17. Remove the EGR airflow control valve from the intake manifold.
  18. Remove high pressure injection pump to fuel rail high pressure line.
  19. Disconnect high pressure injection pump quantity control valve electrical connector.
  20. Disconnect fuel supply and return lines at high pressure injection pump.
  21. Remove alternator to intake manifold bracket.
21 Remove high pressure injection pump retaining nuts and remove pump.

Care must be taken not to bend the brake vacuum tube when removing high pressure pump.
unquote:


if you learn a short cut to that, please do post it.

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What is the best way to deal with 2 gallons of gas in 2003 TDI? I can't get a hose in deep enough to siphon it. Am thinking about removing line to fuel pump.


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Remove and install diesel fuel injector


First, keep everything as clean as possible. Contamination below 30 microns, which cannot be seen by humans, can destory a diesel fuel injection system. Clean everything off anything having to do with connections on the fuel system and cover any connections left open.

Begin by removing the intake manifold. This will remove the clips holding the injection lines passing underneath and around the intake runners. After removing the manifold, cover the openings in the cylinder head (I use wadded-up paper towels).

Next, remove the clips at the brackets on the injection lines closer to the injectors.

Loosen all of the injection connections at the injectors. Do not remove the lines.

You can remove the water crossover tube if it is in your way, but drain about a 1/2 gallon of coolant before your remove the crossover.

Remove the oil fill tube from the timing cover. Turn the engine clockwise, using a 15/16" socket and ratchet (or breaker bar) on the center bolt of the crankshaft. As you turn the engine over, a bolt will show up at the opening where the oil fill tube was removed. Remover the bolt and keep turning the engine over until you have removed all three bolts. Do NOT use the starter to turn the engine over and, after removing the third bolt, do NOT turn the crankshaft any more.

On top of the timing cover, behind the rounded top, is the place where the injection pump is bolted to the cover from the back side. Clean the top of the timing cover where it meets the injection pump and look for a thin line scribed into the cover and one on the injection pump. Note the position of the two lines (they are usually aligned) for reassembly.

Remove the throttle cable assembly from the injection pump. Remove all the wires from the pump and note which connection the big pink wire goes to. The other wires will be green. Remove the return hose at the top of the injection pump.

There are three nuts holding the injection pump to the timing cover and you will need a 15mm socket and/or wrench to remove them. When you do, the injection pump and injection lines can be removed as a unit. Note the position of the driveshaft of the injection pump to set the new one the same way. If you are not going to put things back together right away, cut up a plastic garbage bag and make covers for the injectors. Secure the covers with rubber bands or nylon cable ties to keep dirt out of the injectors.

Carefully transfer the injection lines to the new pump. It is possible to cross them up so pay close attention while moving the lines. Transfer the fuel inlet pipe to the new pump and whatever device is mounted on the passenger side of the old injection pump to the new pump.

Get a new injection pump to timing cover gasket and install it over the timing cover studs. Install the new injection pump after setting the driveshaft to match the holes in the gear inside the timing cover. The pump can only be installed one way since it is indexed to the gear. Reinstall the nuts on the studs and set the timing marks to the same position they were when you removed the old injection pump (the lines on top of the timing cover and the flange of the injection pump). Tighten the mounting nuts. Make sure that all the injection lines line up at their injectors, but do not tighten the connections at the injectors yet.

Put the first bolt back into the gear through the oil fill tube hole. Hand tighten it and then turn the crankshaft clockwise as before to install the remaining two bolts. Then, tighten all the bolts securely and resinstall the oil fill tube. Reinstall the throttle connections on the injection pump.

Install a new piece of 1/4" fuel line from the fuel filter to the injection pump (the old one is usuall brittle since it never gets changed). Remove the covers over the opening in the cylinders heads and reinstall the intake manifold using new gaskets.

Reinstall all the injection line clips that were removed and the coolant crossover tube (if you removed it and don't forget to add coolant to the radiator). Reconnect all the wiring on the injection pump, except for the big pink wire. Install a piece of clear tubing on the top of the injection pump and connect it to the return tee in front of it (where you removed the rubber hose from the old injection pump).

Now comes the fun part: Disconnect the glow plug relay connector (two small wires in a connector) from the middle of the relay. The relay is usually on the driver's fender and close to the battery.

Crank the engine, in short bursts, until you see fuel in the clear tubing on top of the injection pump. When you do, reconnect the big pink wire on the injection pump. Continue to crank the engine in short bursts (allowing the starter to rest between cranking cycles) until you see fuel dripping out of the injection lines at the injectors. When you do, tighten the connections where fuel is dripping. When all lines have been tightened, reconnect the glow plug relay connector. Remove the clear tubing on top of the injection pump and reinstall the fuel line that was removed from that location.

Then, try starting the engine normally. If it will not start, try some WD-40 down the intake. You can use ether, but you MUST disable the glow plugs be removing the connector at the relay.

The engine may run rough or stall at first but it should smooth out after all the remaining air comes out of the system.

Torque values are as follows:

Intake manifold: 25-37 ft-lbs
Gear bolts: 13-20 ft-lbs
Injection pump mounting nuts: 25-37 ft-lbs
Injection lines: 15-24 ft-lbs ("wrench tight" is fine)
Injection pump fuel inlet fitting: 15-20 ft-lbs

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