Question about KitchenAid KSRA25ILSS Side by Side Refrigerator

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My kitchenaid KSRA25ILSS01 has developed a relay switch on and off noise that seems to be coming from the compressor, with about a 6 sec lag between on and off or off and on.

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore refrigatorstart/relay/overload switch has burned spot on

HI. i would recommend to check the relay first, then the compressor last to confirm total failure. If both devices test out ok, this will lead to a failed main power control board.

THE RELAY

The compressor relay starts the compressor. A fault relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. On some units. the relay may not be covered at all.(each model may vary). Beneath the terminal cover(if equipped), you will find the compressor relay, and the overload protector as well. The electrical terminals of the compressor motor are located here also. Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor, gently. Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing. Test the relay with a ohm(multimeter), for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M"(the labeling may vary on each model). The meter should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up). With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The meter should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up). Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L". The meter should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity. With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M". The meter should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms. Now, if the relay fails these described tests, it should be replaced asap.

COMPRESSOR TEST PROCEDURE

The compressor is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. Generally the same proximity of the relay. The compressor motor can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. The main testing points will be the actual terminal post that hold the relay, gently pull the relay of the terminal box on the side of the compressor, and use the relay holding probes for testing. Once the relay is removed, Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero ohms. Be sure to set your meter to 1X before beginning. Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should have continuity with the multimeter displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service. Now test the compressor for ground. With the multimeter still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn. None of the terminals should have continuity; the multimeter should display a reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor will require professional service.

Posted on Jan 10, 2010

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mrbobfixit
  • 259 Answers

SOURCE: Startelay switch on Kitchenaid side-by-side

Yes the relay and overload will come with the new compressor.

Posted on Jun 12, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: KitchenAid KSBS25FJWH01 - stopped running - no

Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


heatman101

Posted on Aug 29, 2010

slick45836
  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: I have a ksra25ilss01 model

The wire in the ice machine part is being heald down by ice I would guess, try and mess with it empty it all out of ice and let it start over again.

Posted on Jun 24, 2011

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forget about using youtube try googling it and see if u can get help? not sure but the compressor has a seal that separates the coolant from the oil and when it goes or starts to leak u may get weird sounds? sorry cannot help more Ive heard clicking sounds before from the compressor but it was usually due to bad relay having to do with the starting process

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The wire in the ice machine part is being heald down by ice I would guess, try and mess with it empty it all out of ice and let it start over again.

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Hi,

It may be the compressor but I suspect that it is the fan making the noise...

Here is a tip that I wrote about refrigerators and the fan noise that they develop sometimes...

Refrigerator Fan Noise


heatman101

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Hi, That would be the relay/overload you hear. The "buzzing" is the start device of the compressor, and the "clicking" is the overload/cut-out protector. It may just be a faulty relay/ start device, or it may be effect of a locked rotor in the compressor. You can try to replace the start device and see if that yields any remedy, ( I recommend and use the RCO410 also known as a HS410 3 in1 hard start kit) if it doesn't start it...call a tech, it may need a compressor and some units have a five-ten year warranty on the compressor, check your owners manual under "warranties". Hopefully that's a start for you. Good luck

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if you hear a clicking like the compressor is trying to start, like a clicking on and off this sounds like it could be your start run relay trying to kick your compressor on. if this is bad it will continue to click, and your compressor won't start. unless your mechanically inclined this might be the time to call a service tech. the start run relay switch sits on the compressor behind the fridge.

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Here is how to tell if system is working.Get into the vehicle and close door. Set ignition switch to on position and move the gear shifter to neutral. After a few secs. you should hear the compressor turn on. If it comes on then put shifter back to park leave ignition on and exit vehicle. Compressor will stop when you open the door but should start back up in a couple of secs. after you close the door. You can then walk around the vehicle and listen for leaks.
If compressor does not come on there are 3 fuses and a solid state relay that controls it along with the module.
The 3 fuses are no. 109(50amp) in the battery junction box under hood.This is the direct feed to compressor thru the solid state relay. The other 2 fuses are located in the interior fuse panel and they are no. 6 (5amp) and no. 12(15amp).
What we usually see though if compressor does not run is either a bad compressor or the solid state relay. They both are rather expensive so I would have an experience tech look at it then.
However If you feel confident enough and have a voltmeter or test light respond back and I will tell you which wires to check.

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