Question about Roper RAS8445KQ Top Load Washer

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Does not spin when cycle clicks in to start

It clicks into the cylce but it does not spin

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  • Master
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This unit has relays with solenoids attached to them. You have a non working solenoid

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Kenmore model 417.441525400 rinse cylce problem

http://www.applianceaid.com/frigidaire_frontload_washer5.html




I cannot guarantee that this will help, but I was able to fix my front loading Kenmore Model 417.44052401 only because of helpful people in internet forums.

First of all, there is an extremely helpful troubleshooting guide on applianceaide.com. It describes Frigidaire Washers, but Kenmore is made by Frigidaire, so it will work. You can find it here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/frigidaire_frontload_washer5.html

Anyway, here's my story:

Wife washed some clothes, but when it was time to drain and spin, nothing but a buzzing sound came from the machine. She got worried that something would burn up, and cancelled the wash cycle. She had to take the wet soapy clothes to her mom's to rewash.

I drained all the water in the tub out with a small cup.

Then I got on the internet and found the aforementioned help guide on applianceaid.com. I ran the diagnostic, and it indicated Error 31, which was the pressure sensor reporting that there wasn't enough pressure.

I had also read on another forum where, someone had a very similar problem, and he found something crazy like a superhero arm in the impeller in his pump. He removed the rubber boot that connects several of the hoses to the pump, and voila, he found said object and some loose change.

Earlier, my Wife had told me that she thought the underwire from a bra must be stuck in the machine somewhere because one of them came out torn and missing the underwire.

So, I disconnected the rubber boot, just as the other guy had done, and sure enough, there was the metal underwire, and about 10 dimes & pennies. Apparently, the underwire was stuck in the impeller and would not allow it to spin so that it could **** the water into the pump and send it down the drain.

Disassembling it was the easy part.

It took my wife and I about an hour and a half just to get the "boot" hooked back up to two hoses and a tube. My big clumsy hands could not get the job done, but my wife's small hands were able to get the hoses reconnected while I held the hose clamps open with a pair of vice grips.

It was not a complicated job at all in theory, but it was hard to reconnect everything. But, we got it done and didn't have to spend a dime. In fact, we found about 35 cents or so. LOL. It cost me about 4 hours of my time, but it was well worth it.

After everything was reconnected and reassembled, I ran the diagnostics again, and this time, at stage 9, where it had previously failed, it passed with flying colors! Yay!

I just finished washing a load of towels that we dirtied when we opened the "boot" and all the water I could not scoop out earlier came rushing out. Worked with no problems.

Hope this helps someone.

Posted on Aug 21, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: Washer doesn't always complete the spin cylce

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump

removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Three possibilities: (Ranging from least difficult to really messy)

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

It's also possible that the Neutral Drain Assembly in the transmission is broken:


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If it will drain but won't spin the problem is likely in the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Ours had a similar problem.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

All of the above sound more difficult than they really are. If you're comfortable with a socket set, pliers/vice grips and

willing to get a bit dirty (oil) you can save some considerable money.

Posted on Apr 26, 2010

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