This is more than likely a redundant question, but I'm new to cameras and photography. But anyways, whenever i developed my first and only roll of film, the pictures were blackish and had nothing to them, well a few had some colorful blobs that were interesting, but none of them were of the pictures I had taken, I was wondering what I could do to fix it without bringing it into a repair shop.
It's hard to tell without looking at the film itself, and it would help to know what type of film you are using (black and white? color?). My guess would be a light leak. If the film is exposed to any light, that results in a black picture, possibly blotches of color. Either you opened the camera before you rolled the film back into the canister (unlikely), or your camera is responsible for the light leak, in which case, you will have to bring it to a repair shop.
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There is not any in camera developing. This is not a digital camera it is a film camera wherein we put a film cartridge with a specified number of shots into the camera then thread the film leader to the takeup spool, close the camera advance the film a few frames, then we are ready to shoot. After the specified number of shots, 24 or 36, film is rewound into the canister, camera back opened film canister removed then taken to the lab for processing.
APS cameras are very rarely seen these days because the film loading and advance mechanism was poorly designed and engineered from the start.
Your fault is very common and given that the camera will be irreparable anyway (no spares, plus the small problem that the camera was never designed to be repaired anyway) then you need to decide whether to just chuck it away or whether to break open the camera in total darkness and manually rewind the film back into the cassette for developing.
The F90x is like many other automatic winding SLR's in that it winds film back into the cassette as the film is exposed rather than by pulling the film out (which then has to be manually rewound back into the cassette after the final exposure).
So if the developed films are coming back totally blank (i.e. clear, apart from pre-imprinted information such as frame numbers and film edge markings) it can only mean that the film has not been exposed. This will happen if the film was not initially wound out of the cassette at all or if the shutter mechanism is not exposing the film. In the first instance, there will be a blackened frame or two at the start of the film after the initial darkened film leader, where the same frame has been exposed repeatedly. But if this fault occurs then it also shows up as the film does not get wound back into the cassette with each new exposure. I therefore strongly suspect that the shutter assembly is faulty and it's not an uncommon fault.
The official fix is to replace the shutter assembly, but it's not cheap to buy and labour is also expensive and on some models the parts can be difficult to obtain (I haven't repaired an F90 for a while, so don't know one way or the other). In reality, repair costs far outweigh the cost of the camera so it's better to consign the F90 to be cannibalised for spare parts and to obtain a suitable replacement model.
Both autofocus and earlier manual focus Nikons can be easily obtained for free or peanuts on FreeCycle/Freegle or on auction websites.
Am i right in thinking the keystone is a old 8mm movie camera? Never had any experience with movie cameras, or developing their film- I'm goin to assume its like 35mm developing, apologies if this is completly useless advice. I'm fairly certain you will not be able to develop film in camera (camera will end up pretty wet). If the problem you have is actually getting film out o the camera I'd suggest a changing bag- basically a light tight bag that you put the camera in with your developing tin (if your home developing) or canister if your using a lab, you then have to put your hands inside 2 holes either side and transfer your film from camera to developing container- blind. I'd advise doing a couple practice runs first with some old unused film just to get the hang of it- it can be tricky. Again I have no experience with 8mm film processing but I'd imagine the principles are similiar. You can get hold of changing bags from most photographic retailers, and always follow instructions that came with your film.
you should have at least 6in. of exposed film from the film canister to the take-up spool unless you loaded the film in total darkness.
open the back cover to make sure the shutter is working, reload and give it another try.
To check to see if it is a camera fault of developing fault you could try using a cheap colour film in the camera and getting it developed at a normal photo processor.
This will determine in which half of the process the fault lies.
If the pictures from the colour film are the same then it must be a camera usage problem or fault.
If the pictures are ok from the colour film then it will be a problem in either the film being used, developing problem (poor mix of chemicals etc).
1). open the back, use different combinations of film speeds, shutter speeds and apartures. if you can see light coming in from the lens, no matter how little light and how fast.
2). check that film advances or not. if you camera detects film and loads automatically, insert any expired film cassette, or badly developed film and roll it back into cassette.
3). send it for service if either one or both gives you an answer of "N".
Looks like you are not loading the film onto the take-up spool correctly.
Go back to the development store and ask them if they can give you a spool of waste film (e.g. one that got exposed to the light or something). Otherwise buy the cheapest film you can find.
Load the film in the camera. Take a few frames. Open the camera back up a bit, the film should have advanced. You will be able to tell this because there is more film on the takeup spool. The frames are also numbered nearby.
It might take you a few goes to get the film to load correctly. If no luck, maybe the file wind-on is broken and the camera needs repair.