Question about Estate TEDX640JQ Electric Dryer

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Estate dryer tensioner loose while installing belt

The tensioner only has a lip and two teeth to keep it in place. Am I installing it backwards>?

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Go to www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html there is a video that will show you how to replace it. It may be a different model but the process will be the same. You can also enter in your model # for diagrams and illustrations. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

  • Screations Oct 07, 2010

    Very helpful site. Problem solved.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My dryer spins but barely, it seems to be scrapeing on the bottom? Any ideas how to fix?


Possibly loose belt. Mostly the belt tensioner is come off or its mounting screw came loose.
Try this:
Unplug the power.
Open the top lip (cover) . Open the front panel.
Check the tensioner under the drum. The spring must stay in place. All the mounting bolt or screws must stay in place.
Check the belt. if it's tear off or expend too long then possibly need new one.

Good luck

Mai

Feb 08, 2017 | Dryers

1 Answer

Belt is sqeeking


Hi, Anonymous belt squeaking or chirping or buzzing or zingzing are sounds that make up the orchestra of "Belt Music" these noises are caused by a variety of conditions that can usually be corrected ie. belt tension too loose, swing arm alignment no true, warped or loose sprockets and bent sprocket guards, but the majority of music is mainly caused by miles and miles of heat build up from the engine, transmission, and sprockets transferring that heat to the drive belt, and over time the sides of the belt will become crystallized/glazed into a finish that is harder than "Chicken Lips" and everyone knows that "Chicken Lips" are harder than diamonds. This is the reason your brakes squeak. There are many home remedies out there, fan belt spray, rubbing a bar of soap on the sides, Dupont Teflon Lubricant, grease, silicone spray, WD-40 etc. etc. these are no more than Band-Aids and the noise just comes back in a couple of days, You must remove the "Chicken Lips" The first and most important thing you can do are align the belt in the sprockets so that it tracks dead center not rubbing up against the sprocket guard this may require using shims on the front and rear sprockets, while the belt is off, check the teeth for being broken-cracked-missing, check the sprockets for having square teeth instead of rounded teeth, if any of these conditions exist, replace the belt and both sprockets. If everything looks ok then place the belt on its side and with a drill or die grinder install a 2-3 inch velcro sanding pad with a ScotchBrite disc, gently dust both sides of the belt to remove the shiny crystallized surface the surface will become dull once the fresh material is exposed. Reinstall the shimmed sprockets and reconditioned belt and adjust the tension with no rider on board to 5/16-3/8" up and down with 10lbs. of force I have had excellent results with this method and it is cheaper than buying a $300 new belt. Again the key to this procedure is "BELT ALIGNMENT" you need to keep the sides of the belt away from the sprocket guards. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Chirping Noise on my 2009 V star tourer


Hi, Hal belt squeaking or chirping or buzzing or singing are sounds that make up the orchestra of "Belt Music" these noises are caused by a variety of conditions that can usually be corrected ie. belt tension too loose, swing arm alignment no true, warped or loose sprockets and bent sprocket guards, but the majority of music is mainly caused by miles and miles of heat build up from the engine, transmission, and sprockets transferring that heat to the drive belt, and over time the sides of the belt will become crystallized/glazed into a finish that is harder than "Chicken Lips" and everyone knows that "Chicken Lips" are harder than diamonds. This is the reason your brakes squeak. There are many home remedies out there, fan belt spray, rubbing a bar of soap on the sides, Dupont Teflon Lubricant, grease, silicone spray, WD-40 etc. etc. these are no more than Band-Aids and the noise just comes back in a couple of days, You must remove the "Chicken Lips" The first and most important thing you can do are align the belt in the sprockets so that it tracks dead center not rubbing up against the sprocket guard this may require using shims on the front and rear sprockets, while the belt is off, check the teeth for being broken-cracked-missing, check the sprockets for having square teeth instead of rounded teeth, if any of these conditions exist, replace the belt and both sprockets. If everything looks ok then place the belt on its side and with a drill or die grinder install a 2-3 inch velcro sanding pad with a ScotchBrite disc, gently dust both sides of the belt to remove the shiny crystallized glaze the surface will become dull once the fresh material is exposed. Reinstall the shimmed sprockets and reconditioned belt and adjust the tension with no rider on board to 5/16-3/8" up and down with 10lbs. of force, I have had excellent results with this method and it is cheaper than buying a $300 new belt. Again the key to this procedure is "BELT ALIGNMENT" you need to keep the sides of the belt away from the sprocket guards.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

How to reduce belt drive noise


Hi, Razzle00 belt squeaking or chirping or buzzing or singing are sounds that make up the orchestra of "Belt Music" these noises are caused by a variety of conditions that can usually be corrected ie. belt tension too loose, swing arm alignment no true, warped or loose sprockets and bent sprocket guards, but the majority of music is mainly caused by miles and miles of heat build up from the engine, transmission, and sprockets transferring that heat to the drive belt, and over time the sides of the belt will become crystallized/glazed into a finish that is harder than "Chicken Lips" and everyone knows that "Chicken Lips" are harder than diamonds. This is the reason your brakes squeak. There are many home remedies out there, fan belt spray, rubbing a bar of soap on the sides, Dupont Teflon Lubricant, grease, silicone spray, WD-40 etc. etc. these are no more than Band-Aids and the noise just comes back in a couple of days, You must remove the "Chicken Lips" The first and most important thing you can do are align the belt in the sprockets so that it tracks dead center not rubbing up against the sprocket guard this may require using shims on the front and rear sprockets, while the belt is off, check the teeth for being broken-cracked-missing, check the sprockets for having square teeth instead of rounded teeth, if any of these conditions exist, replace the belt and both sprockets. If everything looks ok then place the belt on its side and with a drill or die grinder install a 2-3 inch velcro sanding pad with a ScotchBrite disc, gently dust both sides of the belt to remove the shiny crystallized glaze the surface will become dull once the fresh material is exposed. Reinstall the shimmed sprockets and reconditioned belt and adjust the tension with no rider on board to 5/16-3/8" up and down with 10lbs. of force, I have had excellent results with this method and it is cheaper than buying a $300 new belt. Again the key to this procedure is "BELT ALIGNMENT" you need to keep the sides of the belt away from the sprocket guards.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://vstar1300.pbworks.com/w/page/5760703/Maintenance%20-%20Adjusting%20the%20Drive%20Belt
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I keep loosing belts on my stratoliner. Over the last year I have broken 3 belts on my 2006 Yamaha Stratoliner. Wondering if it is a supension problem or is belt tension a weekly adjustment. never had any...


Hi, Albert belt squeaking or chirping or buzzing or singing are sounds that make up the orchestra of "Belt Music" these noises are caused by a variety of conditions that can usually be corrected ie. belt tension too loose, swing arm alignment no true, warped or loose sprockets and bent sprocket guards, but the majority of music is mainly caused by miles and miles of heat build up from the engine, transmission, and sprockets transferring that heat to the drive belt, and over time the sides of the belt will become crystallized/glazed into a finish that is harder than "Chicken Lips" and everyone knows that "Chicken Lips" are harder than diamonds. This is the reason your brakes squeak. There are many home remedies out there, fan belt spray, rubbing a bar of soap on the sides, Dupont Teflon Lubricant, grease, silicone spray, WD-40 etc. etc. these are no more than Band-Aids and the noise just comes back in a couple of days, You must remove the "Chicken Lips" The first and most important thing you can do are align the belt in the sprockets so that it tracks dead center not rubbing up against the sprocket guard this may require using shims on the front and rear sprockets, while the belt is off, check the teeth for being broken-cracked-missing, check the sprockets for having square teeth instead of rounded teeth, if any of these conditions exist, replace the belt and both sprockets. If everything looks ok then place the belt on its side and with a drill or die grinder install a 2-3 inch velcro sanding pad with a ScotchBrite disc, gently dust both sides of the belt to remove the shiny crystallized glaze the surface will become dull once the fresh material is exposed. Reinstall the shimmed sprockets and reconditioned belt and adjust the tension with no rider on board to 5/16-3/8" up and down with 10lbs. of force, I have had excellent results with this method and it is cheaper than buying a $300 new belt. Again the key to this procedure is "BELT ALIGNMENT" you need to keep the sides of the belt away from the sprocket guards.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

2002 Yamaha Road Star Silverado drive belt squeaking


Hi, Kdwicks426 belt squeaking or chirping or buzzing or singing are sounds that make up the orchestra of "Belt Music" these noises are caused by a variety of conditions that can usually be corrected ie. belt tension too loose, swing arm alignment no true, warped or loose sprockets and bent sprocket guards, but the majority of music is mainly caused by miles and miles of heat build up from the engine, transmission, and sprockets transferring that heat to the drive belt, and over time the sides of the belt will become crystallized/glazed into a finish that is harder than "Chicken Lips" and everyone knows that "Chicken Lips" are harder than diamonds. This is the reason your brakes squeak. There are many home remedies out there, fan belt spray, rubbing a bar of soap on the sides, Dupont Teflon Lubricant, grease, silicone spray, WD-40 etc. etc. these are no more than Band-Aids and the noise just comes back in a couple of days, You must remove the "Chicken Lips" The first and most important thing you can do are align the belt in the sprockets so that it tracks dead center not rubbing up against the sprocket guard this may require using shims on the front and rear sprockets, while the belt is off, check the teeth for being broken-cracked-missing, check the sprockets for having square teeth instead of rounded teeth, if any of these conditions exist, replace the belt and both sprockets. If everything looks ok then place the belt on its side and with a drill or die grinder install a 2-3 inch velcro sanding pad with a ScotchBrite disc, gently dust both sides of the belt to remove the shiny crystallized glaze the surface will become dull once the fresh material is exposed. Reinstall the shimmed sprockets and reconditioned belt and adjust the tension with no rider on board to 5/16-3/8" up and down with 10lbs. of force, I have had excellent results with this method and it is cheaper than buying a $300 new belt. Again the key to this procedure is "BELT ALIGNMENT" you need to keep the sides of the belt away from the sprocket guards.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

My belt is worned out i need step by step on how to change it.


GET LOND DRIVE 3/8 RACHET OR BELT TOOL AND PLACE ON THE BELT TENSIONER AND PUSH THE TENSIONER YOU WILL SEE BELT IS LOOSEN REMOVE THE BELT FROM THE ALTENATOR PULLEY AND LET THE TENSIONER GO SLOWY AND REMOVE THE COMPLETE BELT. COMPARE THE OLD BELT FOR SIZE AND MAKE SURE THEY ARE EXACT MATCH. YOU HAVE BELT SCHEMATIC TOP OF THE WATER PUMP START FROM THE BOTTOM CRANK PULLEY PLACE THE BELT AND MAKE SURE DONT MISS TEETH OUT OR INSIDE. A/C PULLEY WATER PUMP POWER STEERING IDLE PULLEY AND OTHER SIDE PLACE ON TENSIONER PULLEY TO AND PUSH THE TENSIONER AGAIN AND PLACE THE ALTENATOR PULLEY AND YOU ARE DONE. BEFORE START TO ENGINE FALLOW THE COMPLETE BELT FOR PERFECT SIT AND CORRECT POSITION.SHOULDNT BE TOO TIGHT OR TOO LOOSE.

Dec 16, 2009 | 2000 Pontiac Grand Am GT

1 Answer

How do I instal the tension pulley and belt


If the model number you have this listed under is correct, replacing the dryer belt and installing the tensioner involves the following steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer and remove the lint screen.

2. Remove the two screws that were under the lint screen and lift the top panel.

3. Unplug the door switch conector plug and any ground wire that may be installed on the casing.

4. Locate the two screws that hold the front panel in place. There should be one screw on each side in the cabinet interior.

5. With the door shut, lean against the front panel and remove the two screws that hold it in place. Once the screws are removed, grasp the front panel at the top center and lift straight up to remove.

You should now have complete access to the dryer interior. If the belt is broken, this may cause the idler pulley (tensioner) to come loose. This is normal with no tension on the pulley to hold it in place. To install a new belt and re-install the pulley, follow these steps:

1. Loop the drive belt around the dryer drum with the groove side facing the drum. (Try to line the belt up with the wear marks already on the drum from the previous belt).

2. With the tensioner in your left hand, insert the clip end of the idler pulley into the grooves on the dryer bottom casing with the idler wheel pointing to your left. (The grooves are directly in front of the drive motor.)

3. While holding the tensioner in place, insert the belt UNDER the wheel with your right hand and pull it up and over the drive motor pulley.

If this does not explain it well enough, you can also verify by going to repairclinic.com. Click on the Repair Help link and look for the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section on the next page. Look for Whirlpool and refer to diagram H.

Once you have the belt installed, re-install the dryer front panel by holding it as you did previously. Line up the holes on the inside bottom edge of the front panel with the small mounting cleats on the front edge of the side panels. This can be done by yourself, but an assist may make it easier. Once you have the front panel in place, lean against it to hold it in place and install the mounting screws.

NOTE: Don't forget to reconnect the grounding wire and door switch connector plug. Without the door switch connected, the dryer will not run. Lower the top panel back in place and reinstall the two screws.

NOTE: Placing a piece of duct tape over the dryer vent chute will help safeguard against dropping anything down in the blower fan assembly. If you drop any screws down the chute, you will need to remove the dryer back panel to retrieve them.

If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Oct 20, 2009 | Estate TEDX640JQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How does is belt tensioner installed on estate dryer


Replacing the dryer belt and installing the tensioner on this model dryer involves the following steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer and remove the lint screen.
2. Remove the two screws that were under the lint screen and lift the top panel.
3. Unplug the door switch conector plug and any ground wire that may be installed on the casing.
4. Locate the two screws that hold the front panel in place. There should be one screw on each side in the cabinet interior.
5. With the door shut, lean against the front panel and remove the two screws that hold it in place. Once the screws are removed, grasp the front panel at the top center and lift straight up to remove.

You should now have complete access to the dryer interior. If the belt is broken, this may cause the idler pulley to come loose. This is normal with no tension on the pulley to hold it in place. To install a new belt and re-install the pulley, follow these steps:

1. Loop the drive belt around the dryer drum with the groove side facing the drum. (Try to line the belt up with the wear marks already on the drum from the previous belt).

2. With the tensioner in your left hand, insert the clip end of the idler pulley into the grooves on the dryer bottom casing with the idler wheel pointing to your left. (The grooves are directly in front of the drive motor.)

3. While holding the tensioner in place, insert the belt UNDER the wheel with your right hand and pull it up and over the drive motor pulley.

If this does not explain it well enough, you can also verify by going to repairclinic.com. Click on the Repair Help link and look for the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section on the next page. Look for Whirlpool and refer to diagram H.

Once you have the belt installed, re-install the dryer front panel by holding it as you did previously. Line up the holes on the inside bottom edge of the front panel with the small mounting cleats on the front edge of the side panels. This can be done by yourself, but an assist may make it easier. Once you have the front panel in place, lean against it to hold it in place and install the mounting screws. NOTE: Don't forget to reconnect the grounding wire and door switch connector plug. Without the door switch connected, the dryer will not run. Lower the top panel back in place and reinstall the two screws.

NOTE: Placing a piece of duct tape over the dryer vent chute will help safeguard against dropping anything down in the blower fan assembly. If you drop any screws down the chute, you will need to remove the dryer back panel to retrieve them.

If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 24, 2009 | Estate TEDX640JQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My whirlpool estate dryer tub will not rotate


which pulley came off the one on the motor, or the Idler wheel that keeps tension on the belt. You probably will need a belt

May 26, 2008 | Estate TGDS840JQ Gas Dryer

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