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Philips 25tr15 will not cut on it just clicks. it has 160v on the main filter cap and 130v on the collector of the h.o.t.. i know i have b+ but i just hear one click from the relay and there is no raster of any kind. i am going to check the voltage regulator next, but give me some more clues to solve this problem.

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    vernon johnson Apr 28, 2010

    i have recently gotten a blue ring tester i was wondering do you have a website that can explain how i can test the yoke and the fly back with it

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    vernon johnson May 03, 2010

    it reads hi on my esr and on my ohmeter. i replaced it but it still does not come on.

  • vernon johnson
    vernon johnson May 04, 2010

    thank you silver dragon for your comments but i would like to pinpoint this problem with a little help. you made a lot of interesting points but i am looking for someone to help me to get closer to my problem.

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Hi vljenterp
You seem to have some knowledge in tv repair so that will make it easier.
If you have 130 volts on the collector of the h.o.t it means that you B+ is correct, which also means that your regulator is o.k .
You did`nt say if there was high voltage but i`d like you to check capacitor C506 near the h.o.t it is a 680pf at 2kv, it will be written 681 2kv on it, and it is a ceramic disc capacitor.
It might be shorted or leaky so you`ll be able to measure it in ohms.
let me know how it goes

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

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Is it giving any error messages in the form of a blinking power light?

Posted on May 04, 2010

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Hi, well I applaud you for wanting to have a go, but you must make sure that you are starting in the right place, And it appears you have, That is The Power Supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins. The Tools you will need are A SERVICE MANUAL a Good Multimeter, a Signal generator, a Signal Tracer, pref an Oscilloscope, Soldering Iron, De-soldering iron, Probably, too, A SMT Hot Air desolderer (for the Surface Mount IC's) Air, An Anti-Static Wrist Strap, (MOST IMPORTANT, to prevent ESD), Cutters, Screwdrivers, sometimes, Torx, drivers too. Tweezers, are real handy, magnifying glass or eyepiece, a good strong Light. OH and you MUST have the original remote control too, as one needs this to "Program" the Computer in the TV, after, and during servicing, and to be able to put the TV, into "Service Mode" too.
OK, here is a servicing manual, below, these should help you.
www.scribd.com/.../Philips-Training-Manual-TV-Plasma-Display-Panel-Chasis-FTV1-9 -

http://www.electro-tech-online.com/attachments/repairing-consumer-electronics/29958d1244193349-phillips-lcd-training-manual-pvd1075_lcdtv_training_handouts_244.pdf
http://www.scribd.com/doc/22235836/LG-Training-Manual-LCD-TV-42LG70


Posted on May 03, 2010

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Check the rectifiier diodes or diode pack.
you probably have an open in the primary side of the start up circuit.
Also check the yoke or transformer ( open windings) needs to be ohmed out.

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

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