Question about Haier HLT41E Top Load Washer

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The spinner will only spin sometimes, and now it wont spin at all

This twin tub washer was bought in 2006 and in less than 2 years the spinner began to play up. Sometimes it would only spin lightly, while other times it wouldn't even spin at all. Then other times it would spin perfectly, until the next time it decided to not spin at all. While the washer section always worked well, the spinner has given me trouble.

According to the receipt, the appliance has a 5yr warranty, which expires in 2011. However, I have since bought an automatic washer, but would like to have the twin tub fixed as a second hand washer.

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: Intermittent wash cycle

If there is a filter on this model, make sure it is clean, a lot of fluff and other stuff can accumulate in the filter preventing the water from draining fast enough. Sometimes the pump can get blocked with the same effect. Tom.

Posted on Mar 09, 2007

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  • 21 Answers

SOURCE: damp and piled up clothes at the end of each cycle

Good Day.... I feel for you... Unknowingly,When they purchase it. Many people have the same experience in finding service for products such as your experiencing.
Of course, it's our hope and belief, it's not ever going to have a problem, some people are lucky. Me neither... mine is in computers... but that's another story.. Just believe me, I understand ... but I'm going to try to help... why I picked up this call, is because I find it to be interesting, about the comment about the clothes gathering into a ball... Generally, that happens in relationship to the amount of water, inside or lack of it. If the clothes are in a ball, that's why they're coming out wet. Nobody makes a washer that can do that.
I want you to check the drain line...(that's the hose to water uses to exit) Is the hose at any point, higher than the top of the machine (it's supposed to be) ... if not siphoning may be occurring.
Also check to drain hose at the inlet, where the hose goes into the wall.. it must allow air to get in here as well. I have experienced some indifferent situations before, if the hose in stuffed into the stand-pipe, or taped,glued, sealed.. if there is no vacuum break (meaning-place in which air can enter) that to can create a siphon. Ge was known for having a washer that made the kind of bang you describe. It was their normal method for stopping the clothes basket from spinning forever. I hope this answer works for you, otherwise resolving may continue to be difficult. One piece of information you'll have received, is what you will and won't recommend to buy when you hear others having conversation on buying a major Appliance. Sometimes it's all we can do... I wish you best... dean

Posted on Feb 25, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Keeps on rinsing and spinning over and over again

Aha! Mine was doing the same thing and I also noticed that there was some excess water in bottom of the tub - not the tub that the clothes go in but the one that that tub is sitting in. Does that make sense? Anyway, I cut the zip tie that holds the drainage hose, brought the hose as close to the house as possible and siphoned the excess water out of the tub. After this I tried a small test load and it worked no problem. I think the fact that there was this excess water left in the machine made the load too heavy to start the spin cycle.

Hope this helps.


Posted on Jan 22, 2009

sonicboomele
  • 1557 Answers

SOURCE: I have a RWT350AW washer

if it is still washing then your not in real trouble in most cases the problem is to do with your water pump have hubby take the hoses of and see if any tubes are blocked if not see id=f the water pump is turning if not replace it then you should be right as water pumps often fail within months as to poor line production in some cases

Posted on Sep 29, 2010

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: spin cycle doesn't work

bad drain pump or clogged drain line. some units have drain trap you can clean,if so you can clean it out yourself but will make a huge mess if you don't pinch close the drain hose between the tub and pump.

Posted on Nov 18, 2011

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Spinner on twin tub washing machine not spinning


I have had a manatee twin tub washing machine with spinner for two years. When I went to spin dry the first load this evening, it would turn on, but not spin. I read the above entry about another twin tub. I did the following... I unplugged the machine for 1 minute. Plugged it back in, then slowly and carefully turned the spin tub clockwise for 1/4 turn, then counter-clockwise for 1/4 turn. I cannot explain why it worked, but it did. So, try this trick before taking it apart. Good luck!

Jan 15, 2012 | Washing Machines

Tip

Replacing a Rear Tub Bearing


Rear Tub Bearing Replacement
(Part 1 of 3)

This advice is for replacing the rear wash tub shell of most Kenmore Elite HE model FRONT LOADERS, along with Whirlpool Duet, and some Frigidaire FRONT LOADER models. This is a repair that would be rated as difficult due to the extensive disassembly and reassembly of components.

The requirement to replace the rear wash tub shell is usually attributed to the rear tub bearing failure in which the bearings are molded into the tub and cannot be replaced otherwise. In some situations the replacement of the inner spinner basket (stainless steel tub) may also be required due to the corrosion and breakage of the spider arms in the back of the basket that support the basket.

SYMPTOMS: Washer exhibits excessively loud “rumbling” type noise during the spin cycle, excessively vibrates, or won’t spin at all.

DETERMINING IF THE BEARING AND SPIN BASKET ARE BAD: With the washer door open, place your hand inside the basket and push straight up. If there is excessive play in the tub (wobbles up and down) the bearing is probably bad. If the spinner basket scrapes against the outer tub shell when you give it a spin, you will have to replace the inner spin basket as well. Unfortunately, you cannot see the condition of spinner basket supports until it is removed from the outer tub shells. In some cases, a brownish colored stain my show up on clothing as the bearing seal has been breached and leaks into the spinner basket.

Before starting this repair, make sure you read through all instructions thoroughly and place the washer is in an area that gives you plenty of space to work.

(cont’d)

on Jul 07, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Whirlpool Duet- GHW9100LW\ Rear Bearing $700 BUCKS?


Rear Tub Bearing Replacement



This advice is for replacing the rear wash tub shell of most FRONT LOADER models. This is a repair that would be rated as difficult due to the extensive disassembly and reassembly of components.

The requirement to replace the rear wash tub shell is usually attributed to the rear tub bearing failure in which the bearings are molded into the tub and cannot be replaced otherwise. In some situations the replacement of the inner spinner basket (stainless steel tub) may also be required due to the corrosion and breakage of the spider arms in the back of the basket that support the basket.

SYMPTOMS: Washer exhibits excessively loud "rumbling" type noise during the spin cycle, excessively vibrates, or won't spin at all.

DETERMINING IF THE BEARING AND SPIN BASKET ARE BAD: With the washer door open, place your hand inside the basket and push straight up. If there is excessive play in the tub (wobbles up and down) the bearing is probably bad. If the spinner basket scrapes against the outer tub shell when you give it a spin, you will have to replace the inner spin basket as well. Unfortunately, you cannot see the condition of spinner basket supports until it is removed from the outer tub shells. In some cases, a brownish colored stain my show up on clothing as the bearing seal has been breached and leaks into the spinner basket.

Before starting this repair, make sure you read through all instructions thoroughly and place the washer is in an area that gives you plenty of space to work.






DISASSEMBLY:

1. Unplug washer and turn off water supply.
2. Disconnect washer inlet supply lines and remove drain hose from standpipe.
3. Using a shop vac, pull a vacuum on the drain hose to remove all residual water from the drain lines, tub and drain pump. If you do not own a shop vac, remove the lower panel under the door and locate the drain pump. If the drain pump has a clean out trap, lay out some old towels, and open the trap to allow water to drain. If the pump does not have a drain trap, disconnect one of the drain pump hoses.
4. Remove the lower panel under the door (if you haven't done so in the previous step) and remove the washer top and back panels.
5. Disconnect the dispenser hose from the top of the wash tub and disconnect the hose on the side of the tub going to the pressure switch.
6. Remove the hose that leads from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump and remove the drain hose that leads to the standpipe.
7. Remove the door bellow (rubber door boot) from the door frame ONLY and push inside the tub. Leave the other end of the door boot attached to the tub shell. If this is a small front loader, the bellow is cemented to the washer door frame. Use a putty knife to slowly peel the rubber from the door facing. If this is a large HE or Duet model, the bellow is held in place by a small hoop spring. It is located in the seam of the bellow along the door frame at the six o'clock position. Pull the spring out and carefully stretch it apart to remove the hoop from the seam. With the hoop removed, the bellow can be pushed inside the wash tub. Remember to remove the bellow from the water inlet tube that leads from the dispenser.
8. Remove the washer support shocks from the wash tub. The large HE model and Duet models are removed by grasping the upper portion of the shock and turning counter-clockwise. The shock will snap loose and can be pushed aside. Leave the lower portion installed in the bottom of the washer. If this is a small front loader, the shocks are held in place by plastic pins. The pins have a locking tab that needs to be compressed while pushing the pin out of the hole. This is NOT any easy task and it will take some effort. HINT: If you use a long socket that fits snugly over the pointed end of the plastic pins, it will compress the locking tab and enable you to use a hammer to carefully tap them free. NOTE: Large HE models and Duets have 4 shocks, while the smaller models may only have 2.
9. Remove the Drive Motor belt by grasping it near the top and pulling towards you while rotating the large pulley. The belt should slip off.
10. Remove the Drive Motor and Motor Control Board. Carefully label all connections, so you know here the go when have to re-install them.
11. Remove the back casing brackets so the entire back of the washer is open.
12. Remove the rear counter weight from the wash tub to minimize some of the weight.
13. This next step may require two persons: With the tub still suspended by the upper support springs, slowly lay the washer all the way on its back while supporting the wash tub. NOTE: Place something under the washer to support the tub shaft as you lay the washer back (i.e., old blankets, cardboard boxes, etc.) Once the washer is lying down, remove the upper support springs and set the cabinet upright. The wash tub should be now free from the washer cabinet.
14. Set the wash tub assembly upright and remove all the screws around the perimeter of the tub shell halves. NOTE: An electric screw driver with socket attachment works wonders and will speed up this process. If the tub is held together with clips, use a screwdriver along the tub edge under each clip and pry up to remove.
15. NOTE: If you plan on reusing the door bellow, use care not to damage any of the rubber. Place some old towels down and lay the wash tub assembly with the front opening face down. Lift the rear shell off the inner wash basket shaft. You can now inspect the spider arm supports of the spin basket. If the supports are cracked or broken, or if the shaft is worn, you will need to replace the spinner basket.
16. Remove the spinner basket assembly and inspect the front tub shell. In most cases the front shell can be reused and will not require replacement. If the inside of the front shell is damaged, however, it will require replacement.




REASSEMBLY:


1. Reassembling the tub shell parts and inner spin basket is self-explanatory. Just make sure you tighten all screws evenly in a crossing pattern as you tighten the tub shells. If the tub is held together with clips, they can be tapped back into place with a hammer. Use the same crossing pattern to ensure the shells are tightened evenly.
2. Lay the assembled tub shell with the opening face up. Make sure you support the spin basket shaft.
3. Lay the washer casing down over top the washer tub shell.
4. Insert the upper shell support springs into the wash tub and support spring brackets.
5. Raise the washer casing to the upright position, making sure the tub does not swing forward into the washer front. Re-install the rear counter-weight and washer back brackets.
6. Re-install the washer support shocks.
7. Re-install the drain line hose.
8. Re-install the Motor Control Unit and Drive Motor.
9. Re-install the Drive Belt pulley and belt. The belt is installed by placing it into the Drive Motor shaft, first. Make sure there is a one-groove gap between the belt and the end of the drive shaft. With your left hand hold the belt on the drive pulley and guide it around as you turn the pulley with your right hand in a clockwise direction. This can take some effort.
10. Re-install the hoses that lead from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump, and pressure switch.
11. Re-insert the water inlet tube into the rubber door bellow, ensuring the rubber is seated past the flange on the tube.
12. Pull the door bellow through the door frame opening and reseat it. If this is a small model front loader the door bellow will have to be cemented back in place with appliance door gasket adhesive. If this is a larger model front loader that has a hoop spring to hold the bellow in place, insert as follows:


- Place the hoop into the groove of the door bellow along the facing of the door frame with the spring in the 6 o'clock position.
- With both hands gradually work your way around to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions and stretch the spring apart.
- Push the spring and hoop into the groove.

NOTE: It may require a second person to get the door bellow back in place.

1. Re-install the rubber dispenser hose to the top of the wash tub.
2. Re-install back panel and top panel and hook washer back up to water source. Make sure the drain hose is placed back in the standpipe.
3. Leave the bottom washer panel off and plug unit back in. Test operate and check for leaks. If no leaks are present, re-install bottom panel.


Some other parts that may have to be considered when performing a rear tub shell replacement:
- Rubber Door Bellow
- Spinner Basket (if arm supports are damaged)
- Front Tub Shell (if signs of internal damage)
- Drive Pulley (can sometimes become damaged trying to remove old one)
- Drive Belt (check belt during parts removal for wear)
- Wash Tub Support Shocks (The shocks can sometimes break when trying to remove)

NOTE: 1. If you replace the front tub shell you will need to remove the door bellow and front counter-weights and install them on the new shell. 2. If you replace the spinner basket, some do not come with the wash tub fins. Make sure you remove and re-install the old ones in the new tub if required.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

May 04, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Drum seems off balance....


You likely have a corroded/broken spinner assembly on the back of the inner tub. If your washer is out of warranty it is usually cost-prohibitive to repair. We usually quote about $350-$400 parts and labor for it. If you can wiggle the inner basket relative to the outer, that confirms a broken spinner.

Apr 20, 2010 | Frigidaire GLTF1670A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer makes loud clunk as it goes around. tub feels very loose. front load Gallery. I thought something in between tub and shroud but nothing. I think tub is loose.


it sounds like you have a broken spinner assembly,
this is the unit that connects your innur tub to you center shaft seal,,,,
it can be replaced and repaired by you no special tools but the cost could be quite extensive....
an outer tub and spinner is an absolute minimum and there are parts to inspect as you take it apart
do you need both halves of the outer tub would be the biggest one
unless this machine is less than just a few years I would just not bother putting the money into it
its well past cost effective 500.00 for the two parts ive mentioned

Nov 02, 2009 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Need instructions for replacing spinner motor


figured it out by oursleves - part came of old motor by twisting opposite direction to spin and pulling.

Apr 12, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Spinner support - HELP


really???? your trying to get this off yourself? i cant believe you have the courage to try this repair!!!
when these units are making an airplane taking off noise then you are at the right place.
also sometimes the support will break and make a thumping or banging noise in spin.
seriously if you dont have warranty on this then you should just go buy a new washer, if it is under warranty, maybe a lifetime warr on the innertub, then we dont try to remove the bearings, just replace both the inner and outer tub. the outer tub comes with the bearings in it already. be carefull to install the seal properly so the new one wont leak.
also if you call maytag they may help you with free parts but you might have to pay for labor to have it done by an authorized repair company.

Jan 04, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Loud Squeal on Spin Cycle


Rear Tub Bearing Replacement Whirlpool Frigidaire Kenmore Front Loar Washers



This advice is for replacing the rear wash tub shell of most Kenmore Elite HE model FRONT LOADERS, along with Whirlpool Duet, and some Frigidaire FRONT LOADER models. This is a repair that would be rated as difficult due to the extensive disassembly and reassembly of components.

The requirement to replace the rear wash tub shell is usually attributed to the rear tub bearing failure in which the bearings are molded into the tub and cannot be replaced otherwise. In some situations the replacement of the inner spinner basket (stainless steel tub) may also be required due to the corrosion and breakage of the spider arms in the back of the basket that support the basket.

SYMPTOMS: Washer exhibits excessively loud “rumbling” type noise during the spin cycle, excessively vibrates, or won’t spin at all.

DETERMINING IF THE BEARING AND SPIN BASKET ARE BAD: With the washer door open, place your hand inside the basket and push straight up. If there is excessive play in the tub (wobbles up and down) the bearing is probably bad. If the spinner basket scrapes against the outer tub shell when you give it a spin, you will have to replace the inner spin basket as well. Unfortunately, you cannot see the condition of spinner basket supports until it is removed from the outer tub shells. In some cases, a brownish colored stain my show up on clothing as the bearing seal has been breached and leaks into the spinner basket.

Before starting this repair, make sure you read through all instructions thoroughly and place the washer is in an area that gives you plenty of space to work.






DISASSEMBLY:

1. Unplug washer and turn off water supply.
2. Disconnect washer inlet supply lines and remove drain hose from standpipe.
3. Using a shop vac, pull a vacuum on the drain hose to remove all residual water from the drain lines, tub and drain pump. If you do not own a shop vac, remove the lower panel under the door and locate the drain pump. If the drain pump has a clean out trap, lay out some old towels, and open the trap to allow water to drain. If the pump does not have a drain trap, disconnect one of the drain pump hoses.
4. Remove the lower panel under the door (if you haven’t done so in the previous step) and remove the washer top and back panels.
5. Disconnect the dispenser hose from the top of the wash tub and disconnect the hose on the side of the tub going to the pressure switch.
6. Remove the hose that leads from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump and remove the drain hose that leads to the standpipe.
7. Remove the door bellow (rubber door boot) from the door frame ONLY and push inside the tub. Leave the other end of the door boot attached to the tub shell. If this is a small front loader, the bellow is cemented to the washer door frame. Use a putty knife to slowly peel the rubber from the door facing. If this is a large HE or Duet model, the bellow is held in place by a small hoop spring. It is located in the seam of the bellow along the door frame at the six o’clock position. Pull the spring out and carefully stretch it apart to remove the hoop from the seam. With the hoop removed, the bellow can be pushed inside the wash tub. Remember to remove the bellow from the water inlet tube that leads from the dispenser.
8. Remove the washer support shocks from the wash tub. The large HE model and Duet models are removed by grasping the upper portion of the shock and turning counter-clockwise. The shock will snap loose and can be pushed aside. Leave the lower portion installed in the bottom of the washer. If this is a small front loader, the shocks are held in place by plastic pins. The pins have a locking tab that needs to be compressed while pushing the pin out of the hole. This is NOT any easy task and it will take some effort. HINT: If you use a long socket that fits snugly over the pointed end of the plastic pins, it will compress the locking tab and enable you to use a hammer to carefully tap them free. NOTE: Large HE models and Duets have 4 shocks, while the smaller models may only have 2.
9. Remove the Drive Motor belt by grasping it near the top and pulling towards you while rotating the large pulley. The belt should slip off.
10. Remove the Drive Motor and Motor Control Board. Carefully label all connections, so you know here the go when have to re-install them.
11. Remove the back casing brackets so the entire back of the washer is open.
12. Remove the rear counter weight from the wash tub to minimize some of the weight.
13. This next step may require two persons: With the tub still suspended by the upper support springs, slowly lay the washer all the way on its back while supporting the wash tub. NOTE: Place something under the washer to support the tub shaft as you lay the washer back (i.e., old blankets, cardboard boxes, etc.) Once the washer is lying down, remove the upper support springs and set the cabinet upright. The wash tub should be now free from the washer cabinet.
14. Set the wash tub assembly upright and remove all the screws around the perimeter of the tub shell halves. NOTE: An electric screw driver with socket attachment works wonders and will speed up this process. If the tub is held together with clips, use a screwdriver along the tub edge under each clip and pry up to remove.
15. NOTE: If you plan on reusing the door bellow, use care not to damage any of the rubber. Place some old towels down and lay the wash tub assembly with the front opening face down. Lift the rear shell off the inner wash basket shaft. You can now inspect the spider arm supports of the spin basket. If the supports are cracked or broken, or if the shaft is worn, you will need to replace the spinner basket.
16. Remove the spinner basket assembly and inspect the front tub shell. In most cases the front shell can be reused and will not require replacement. If the inside of the front shell is damaged, however, it will require replacement.




REASSEMBLY:


1. Reassembling the tub shell parts and inner spin basket is self-explanatory. Just make sure you tighten all screws evenly in a crossing pattern as you tighten the tub shells. If the tub is held together with clips, they can be tapped back into place with a hammer. Use the same crossing pattern to ensure the shells are tightened evenly.
2. Lay the assembled tub shell with the opening face up. Make sure you support the spin basket shaft.
3. Lay the washer casing down over top the washer tub shell.
4. Insert the upper shell support springs into the wash tub and support spring brackets.
5. Raise the washer casing to the upright position, making sure the tub does not swing forward into the washer front. Re-install the rear counter-weight and washer back brackets.
6. Re-install the washer support shocks.
7. Re-install the drain line hose.
8. Re-install the Motor Control Unit and Drive Motor.
9. Re-install the Drive Belt pulley and belt. The belt is installed by placing it into the Drive Motor shaft, first. Make sure there is a one-groove gap between the belt and the end of the drive shaft. With your left hand hold the belt on the drive pulley and guide it around as you turn the pulley with your right hand in a clockwise direction. This can take some effort.
10. Re-install the hoses that lead from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump, and pressure switch.
11. Re-insert the water inlet tube into the rubber door bellow, ensuring the rubber is seated past the flange on the tube.
12. Pull the door bellow through the door frame opening and reseat it. If this is a small model front loader the door bellow will have to be cemented back in place with appliance door gasket adhesive. If this is a larger model front loader that has a hoop spring to hold the bellow in place, insert as follows:


- Place the hoop into the groove of the door bellow along the facing of the door frame with the spring in the 6 o’clock position.
- With both hands gradually work your way around to the 4 and 8 o’clock positions and stretch the spring apart.
- Push the spring and hoop into the groove.

NOTE: It may require a second person to get the door bellow back in place.

1. Re-install the rubber dispenser hose to the top of the wash tub.
2. Re-install back panel and top panel and hook washer back up to water source. Make sure the drain hose is placed back in the standpipe.
3. Leave the bottom washer panel off and plug unit back in. Test operate and check for leaks. If no leaks are present, re-install bottom panel.


Some other parts that may have to be considered when performing a rear tub shell replacement:
- Rubber Door Bellow
- Spinner Basket (if arm supports are damaged)
- Front Tub Shell (if signs of internal damage)
- Drive Pulley (can sometimes become damaged trying to remove old one)
- Drive Belt (check belt during parts removal for wear)
- Wash Tub Support Shocks (The shocks can sometimes break when trying to remove)

NOTE: 1. If you replace the front tub shell you will need to remove the door bellow and front counter-weights and install them on the new shell. 2. If you replace the spinner basket, some do not come with the wash tub fins. Make sure you remove and re-install the old ones in the new tub if required.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Jan 04, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

WASHER SOUNDS LIKE AN AIRPLANE TAKING OFF DURING SPINE CYCLE


Most likely a failed "spinner" assy. The roaring that you hear is the bearing telling you it's had enough and has gone on strike.

MAJOR job! If it's over 5 years old, I recommend calling a professional and get quotes. Then decide what you want to do.

If it's less than 5 years old, it should be under warranty. Contact Sears. Tell them you have a failed spinner and tub bearing assy. and have them do the repair.

*Just a quick note. You should use only HE detergent in these machines.

Tracy

Oct 28, 2008 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Hitachi twin tub spin dryer won't spin and pump out water if I have more than two light items in it. The washer is perfect and I love it. Does it have a belt for the spin that needs tightening or what...


you probably have a sock or some other item in the bottom of your spin tub that is blocking the flow of water out of your spin tub an that prevents the spinner from spinning properly you need a wire long enough to reach in there and remove whatever is blocking it

Aug 04, 2008 | Washing Machines

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