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If you pull the power to the machine and water continues to flow then the water inlet valve is stuck open. You will need to replace the water inlet valve.The Service manual will step you thru the process. FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual for reference.Sears Parts Direct for reference. The water inlet valve is p/n 25001046 Substitution: 12002242 Water valve shop around for best price. Is this Cold water inlet valve issue? If so and you only do Cold water wash/rinse like me you could switch the fill hose connections from hot to cold to hot at the faucet. Turn the hot water faucet valve off and select Warm/Warm temp selection and you will be filling with cold water wash/rinse.Maybe that would hold you over until you replace the Water Inlet Valve assembly. You can check out your pressure switch transitions as I had this poster do for his issue at this link http://www.fixya.com/support/t5471295-washer_fills_water_begins_agitate_but His issue seems to be a definite stuck pressure switch not water inlet valve such as yours.Check to make sure your pressure switch is OK by watching the fill point transitions as I mention in the post. If you machine is a series 12 or above the Low and Mid fill pressure switch transitions will toggle at the same time.Series 12 and above us a 2 level pressure switch.Series 10 and 1 use a 3 level pressure switch. Good Luck………….. D*ick
Hello. Its a common prob actually with all gm , ford cars and trucks. The ignition has whats called a " sidebar". This sticks up and causes this , or gets stuck on, or key wont come out ,or all the above. You will need a new ignition. Checker or autozone has them around 17 bucks..Quinn Arizona
This truck has a switch in the shifter assembly that tells the ignition the truck is in Park or not. If the shifter doesn't hit that switch right this can happen. Also, there is a component in the ignition (a solenoid) that allows the key to be released if the Park switch is pushed. To be sure it's one of these two things, try this.... Get the key stuck, then disconnect the battery. If the key comes right out, it's either the switch or the solenoid. Good luck!
The defrost clock may be starting to go bad. It will intermittently get stuck in defrost. The next time the unit warms try to locate this clock. Advance the knob and if the unit turns on you know the clock is getting stuck. :)
Had the exact problem. Turned out that it was the thermostat that needed replacing, relatively cheap and quick by mobile mechanic. Things were fine for a year and the second time it happened I assumed it was the same problem. However, this time the thermostat was fine, wasn't sticking, and I had a slow leak in radiator, losing colant and causing engine to overheat, which paradoxically had stopped the heater working as well. Had to get new hose also by local mobile mechanic and everything seems okay again except for the intermittent "stuck in park" problem that a lot of people are also experiencing.
I've had this problem twice with our microwave. The hint to where the problem lies is that the breaker blows when you open the door at times. Inside the microwave are three microswitches; primary and secondary interlock micro switches and an Interlock Monitor switch. The switches are supposed to shut down the microwave if it is running and the door is opened. But, I've found the upper primary switch can stick internal at times and when the door is opened the stuck switch will, because of the way it is wired as a safety switch, cause either the fuse or possibly the main circuit breaker for the oven to pop. The reason the stuck switch blows the breaker or fuse is when the door is opened the interlock switch will cause the neutral wire from the AC power to be applied to the Upper Primary Interlock switch which normally should be open when the door is opened, but if the switch is intermittent or the contacts weld themselves shut the neutral line is connected direct to the "hot" side of the power line through the fuse and thermostat. The first time my microwave failed the switch had melted the contacts together inside the switch and the second time the switch became intermittent and would blow the breaker to the over ever so often. I suspected the switch the second time this happened and utilizing an ohm meter I checked the switch several times by opening and closing the door and once in a while it would remain closed instead of opening when the door was opened. Of course while trouble shooting the power cord to the microwave must be disconnected and use all safety precautions when working around the high voltage areas inside the microwave. I wrote Jenn-Air about the bad switch and the way it is wired into the circuit, but never received any acknowledgement. I suspect these microswitches are under rated for the amount of current that passes through the switch, thus they overheat and eventually arc the contacts together. I hope this helps explain the intermittent problem and could explain many of the intermittent blown fuse problems I see in these internet help sessions