Question about Audiopipe AP-2004 Car Amp
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a 2000watt 4
Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.
Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.
You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.
If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.
If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted or, again, evaluate the impedance load. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.
Check for loose speaker connections at the speaker as a possible root cause for intermittent shutdown.
Posted on Jun 13, 2011
SOURCE: my audiopipe amp went into
Ok, for starters you need to clarify if you are saying you have "two" fuses on your power wire. That's what I get from your statement. My question would be why? As long as you place the initial fuse within 12 inches of the battery, you're cool. The purpose is to stop the flow of power in the event of a spike so that your power wire doesn't fry and cause a fire under your vehicle carpet. Second, your amplifier should have fuses that trip when this occurs too. If this has been occuring since you installed the amp, you need to recheck all your wiring (I recommend removing the extra inline fuse). Two things trigger an amps safety mode. 1- an amperage fluctuation or overload. It will sense when there is to high or too low of an amperage flow. Too much fluctuation can damage internal components. 2- Your amp is malfunctioning. If you have an internal short, this could occur. (really it's tied to the first one because it is sensing that the short is allowing a full flow of power at the short, thus causing a fluctuation). Start with the ground wire. Most amperage problems happen because of a poor ground. Think of power like water. If you have a good flow coming in, but poor flow going out, it gets kinda....backed up. This causes a fluctuation of the amperage since the electrons cannot flow properly. Setting off the protection. The other thing to thing about is the correct guage of wire. If you have too small guage wire, the amperage will dip low during heavy usage, causing the other extreme of the fluctuation.
Check what you have. If you are running a load of 50-65 amp (look at the fuses on your amps and add them up), then 4 guage is good from 13-22 feet. If you are running any higher than that, you will need 2 or 0 guage wire. You will also need to make sure to have a fuse slightly higher that the amperage draw you are expecting. As always, make sure your power and ground wire match. I have seen alot of kits made with smaller guage ground wire. They work of the premise that the shorter distance produces less resistance, thus requiring smaller guage wire. I say why risk it. Always use a multimeter when checking for proper ground placement. Also, if you are going to use aluminum or tinned wire (trust me, it's out there), you will need to increase the guage of the wire.
Posted on Aug 14, 2011
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