Water is leaking from the top of the pump area. It leaks from the plastic tube, which I assumed was a soap intake tube. Shouldn't this tube be pulling in vs spraying out?
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I assume that you are talking about the black plastic tube that runs from the lower intake to the tensioner. There is another black plastic tube that goes out the bottom of the tensioner too. These have little O rings towards the ends. The plastic breaks at that point and when you remove the plastic tube you have to try to fish the end out. Both of these tubes come in a little container. I think that they are like 5 bux at oreillys. If you let them know what you are looking for, they usually have it out on the shelf.
Replacing intake manifold gasket: Replacing the intake manifold gasket, I used the tube kind, it's a make it youself for about $6 (it's blue and the consistancy of toothpaste) follow directions carefully! You can get a tube at Autozone or any car parts store. Has been working great. Just ask the cashier for the make it yourself kind of intake manifold gasket. Sorry, I don't remember the name of it, it's been that long...lol...
As for the Intake Manifold leaking coolant....It could, but shouldn't. One of the largest problems I've seen for coolant to leak out the Intake Manifold has been due to pressure in the system somewhere... Check the classic area: Water pump- look for either water seapage and/or coolant. You'll know if it is because you will see real water either coming out of the water pump leak hole or under the thermostat. Most of the time coolant will pool where your heater hose runs in the intake manifold.
Mentioning heater hose. Check for leaks, holes, and/or cracked heater hoses. In-addition to the water pump, heater hoses...Check the transmission system, exhaust system, fuel system, radiator system, A/C system, secondary fan (located above the water pump housing), and thermostat.Also, check all electrical connections....Hummm....This is almost the entire workings of the vehicle.
NOTE: "It seems to be an infinity kinda thing... Once one thing starts to fail and is ignored, you are bound to be fixing a chain of event failures. Therefore, Do not ignore even the smallest problem or you'll be bound for life in repairs...."
This model uses a composite (some would say plastic) intake manifold, which has been known to develop cracks in the area of the thermostat housing. In addition, the water pump has a pipe to the back of it that emerges in the rear of the intake manifold. Both of these areas peculiar to this motor are known to leak coolant. In its history, many of these plastic manifolds had to be replaced, and there were even techinical bulletins from Ford on them. If you have leak in the tube or pipe that goes under the intake manifold to the back of the water pump, then you will likely want the dealer to fix it, as you may need a new water pump.
Two things then to watch: 1) coolant level and color and 2) any signs of leakage behind the main serpentine belt in the area of the water pump.
Since the serpentine belt is large on the 4.6L motor, and due to its rotation, it is possible that you only have a bad water pump and that the liquid is being thrown by the rotation of the motor. The water pump is not a difficult repair, as it comes off with only a few cap screws. However, if it is detached from the rear inlet pipe (as I mentioned above), it would require that the manifold be removed for it to be reattached. This is not a difficult job, but is very time consuming.
There are two soft plastic tube from the heating elements, one is intake tube which must fit the water reservor intake plastic well. another one is send the hot water to the top of the coffee maker to shower the hot water to coffee. Anyway is take it apart to find out which is the possible spot cause leaking. Not too easy.
Is it leaking only when it is filling or all the time? If it is only leaking during fill, it could be an air gap device
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
If it is leaking all the time it could be the main tub seal. Hope this helped.
I assume this is a 3.0L v6 and that the metal tube that goes under the intake is leaking.This tube can be removed without taking the intake off. There are two bolts holding the tube under the intake on at the transmission side to the tube.The other end of the tube has an "o" ring on it that seals to the back of the water pump housing.Take the radiator hose off of the tube and then the two bolts need to be removed. Now try to pry against the bracket the the bolts were in and move the tube away from the engine. Pull the tube all the way out of the area from beneath the intake and either replace the tube if necessary or just replace the seal. Install by reversing removal procedure. Lubricate seal with silicone greas so seal will slide rather than get damaged upon installation.
http://www.applianceaid.com/neptune.html
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Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
the bag type device is an overflow and should never have "water"in it, but it will get suds if you are using the wrong type of soap. you need to use "HE" soap as it is a non-sudsing soap and thats why you are getting suds leaking from your unit. just run the rinse and spin cycle until the suds are gone. then use the right type of soap and it will work properly with no leaks.
first remove the soap drawer, this should expose locating holes for screws, remove these first, then remove the screws from on top of the plastic front panel and then the plastic front panel tilts forward to remove, taking extra care with wires etc
the soap drawer is now loose still attached to the rubber pipe, which is now easy to get to for inspection, or removal to clear it out.
first of all just check that the machine drum is not filling up totally so it is overflowing back out of the soap drawer, if so that is a different fault entirely and does not need taking to bits the same
Normally you shut off the wall valve when you are thru with your washing. If there is a leak in the front area (important: first take the plug off the wall) open up the top of the machine and check whether the three rubber tubes are in place at the soap dispenser - one of them may have come off. Refit or replace if rubber tube is damaged; would be good to check all the tubes. Another thing would be to check that your soap dispenser is not clogged.
:)
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