Question about Briggs & Stratton Briggs Stratton Intek V - Twin Vertical Ohv Engine with Electric Start 22 Hp, 1" X 3 5/32" Shaft, ModelNo. 44K777 - 0027 - E1
Do yoiu have to remove the flywheel to remove the starter on model 303447 type 1079-A1 Code 904011 engine? If not how do you remove the starter
Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.
Your parts manual that I will make reference to is here: http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/docmanualdetails.aspx?showpdf=MS9691_LO.pdf
Before you start to replace the starter disconect the negative battery terminal.
The flywheel does not have to come off. There are 2 mounting screws on the drive / bendix end of the starter that need removed Item 1009 on page 18 of the parts listing above. Then the whole starter will drop down. Once you have to old starter free, start transferring electrical connections to the new starter one at time. After all electrical connections have been moved mount the new starter.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Disconnect the spark plug wires and test starter. (i.e. you don't want the engine to start yet) Make sure is does not grind excessively when in use. If it does grind or make an odd noise you will need to reposition the starter by losening the mounting screws (Item 1009) just enough so that you can slide the starter a bit and move the starter to a new position. Retighten the mounting screws. Test again. Repeat repositoning as necessary to eliminate odd noises.
Reconnect the spark plug wires.
Place unit in service.
I am not sure if you have to remove the air shroud on this engine to gain access to the starter mounting screws. Some engines you have to lift the shroud up to change the starter. Others it is just a matter of removing the screws. If you have to lift the shroud make sure that is is NOT touching the flywheel when you perform the starter test.
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Posted on Apr 28, 2010
Above exploded parts lists, above that, diy replace starter.
he flywheel has a recessed pocket on the under side that when rotated to the proper position will allow you to take the inner-most bolt out so that you can remove the starter. The outboard bolt is no problem at all. Just remember to remove one of the battery cables so you won't have to worry about shorting out a wrench while you are removing the cable on the side of the starter.
The square shaft which turns one direction but not the other is the recoil starter pawl. This can be pulled straight up from the round cup that it sits in. There should be a couple of steel balls inside. Some models have a large internal snap ring that holds this in the cup. Remove ring, and pull it straight up. Use a magnet to remove the steel balls. Once you have this starter pawl removed, and the steel balls, hold the flywheel, stationary, and using a block of wood, bump one of the lugs on the outside of the starter cup in a CCW direction.
Once you break it free of its torque, it should be able to be spun off CCW. Remove this starter cup, and the beveled bellville washer under it. Now your ready for your flywheel puller. A strap wrench can also be used to turn this starter cup loose. When installing the starter cup, make sure it is clean and free of grease and oils. A drop of oil or a light coating of grease on the crankshafts stub end (over which the starter pawl goes) is usually recommended. The starter cup only needs to be snugged down, and you don't have to go overboard trying to torque it to ungodly tightness. Snug is sufficient.
Drop in the starter pawl, into the cup over the stub of the crank, and drop in the steel balls, replace larger flat cover over this assy, and insert snap ring if there was one.
manual exploded parts. above.
That should help you.
Posted on Apr 28, 2010
What machine is this on?
Posted on Apr 27, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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