My ford scorpio has broken down its lost its

never power pressure wash it, or get water where its very hard to get out. (sealed bearing in alt, P/S/ and A/C are some)
dry out the ignition parts. this is called Misfire.
but once running right, drive far to get all parts fully hot. so its fully dry
next time do this in summer so it dries, faster and more complete.
you pulled the spark plugs all at once?
oops, that be bad, as most dizzy can be timed 4 ways.
and now you lost that secret
find true TDC firing, #1, zero degrees
then lay down the wires.
the V6 the most front cylinder is #1 (they are staggered)
V6 what displacement. ???
i think they are same. but./...
my 2.5L has COPS,
but yours a dizzy

1-6-5-4-3-2
F= front or water pump end, cam cog side.
F246 )bank 2
F135 (aka; bank 1)

none of this is usefull until TDC #1 firing is found.
the easy way is a compressioin guage to #1, max is fire.
turn engine by hand until this happens and the crank pulley
lands on TDC mark. , pull of Dizzy cap, see rotor. that true #1 spark wire. next time pull them 1 by one, or at least mark the #1 wire.
if you had nice NGK wire sets, mag wire,they are pre-marked.

Ticking is a loose valve, needs valve adjustment. Oil on spark plug is most likely a bad piston ring. Which goes in conjunction with shudders when stopped. Sometimes you can see this by running the car for a few minutes, then open the oil fill cap and smell, if it smells like gas or exhaust then its definitely bad rings. Ultimate test would be to pressure test the cylinders.

What is a dizzy?

distributer cap rotor button leads.. coil.. ummm. all that done power the maybe the vaccum on the dizzy then the dizzy it self

no your problem is definately the dizzie cap, as i found out to my cost on a lansia beta. any kind of crack in ur dizzie will cause probs. best way to find out is park your car in the dark open bonnet with engine running then get a mist spray with water in it spray at dizzie and you will see a slight yellow arc around the crack! any crack in bakelite distributors leads to loss of one or more banks

Misfiring Escort...
THE Guide!
1- check HT leads, including the main lead from the coil. pull one off at a time and see if there is any difference in engine noise, if a lead makes no difference to the engine note when you pull it off it is broken and you need a new lead for that plug - best to replace a full set since the others will be on their way out too. try each plug and check the leads like this with the engine running, 2- clean/repace distributor cap and rotor arm if it is dirty or corroded, there are 2 Clips, one on either side of the distributor cap, pull em off, take the distributor cap off, look inside the cap, there are 4 pins, are they all corroded and covered in white stuff?, they should be shiny brass, clean them up with fine wet and dry sandpaper, make them flat and shiny again. also still on the distributor is the rotor arm, pull it off, it may need a bit of wiggling - clean this up the same with the wet and dry, get a very fine grade of wet and dry sandpaper since you want the metal to be as smooth as possible afterwards, once the cap and rotor both have shiny metal clean them with mild detergent, rinse and dry them fully, not only to clean them of dirt and grime but also the metal filings from the sanding are "bad" for the distributor.. once dried refit the rotor arm (it only goes on one way, do not force it) refit the distributor cap, make sure its the right way round (make a note of its position BEFORE you remove it) 3- check if air filter is blocked and replace it if it is very dirty - if you think it is blocked try running the engine without the filter and see if it runs better, you know for sure you have a bad filter if this is the case. 4- check fuel filter (especially on 1.0 and 1.3 engines) for blockage and fuel line for blockage (replacement costs £3.50-£5 or so)
apart from that its "experience required" jobs like setting the ignition timing - just get a normal tune up after you've checked out the leads and dizzy/rotor arm which is quite cheap on an escort, you only turn the dizzy and move 1 screw...
Just for reference in case i have misjudged you're ability and you want to try tune it yourself... 1989 MK4 Ford Escort ;-D you didn't give CC so you'll get all engine data for 1989! (petrol)
NOTE: the CVH engines have hydraulic tappets so no adjustment is possible and no data is given. ---------------------------------------------
Escort 1.3 "HCS" 1988-1990 1297cc Valve tappet clearances - Inlet --- 0.20mm - Exhaust 0.32mm Firing order 1-2-4-3 Idle speed - 700-800RPM -
750RPM is optimal idle but anything between 700-800RMP is acceptable.
Ignition Timing- 15 Degrees before top dead center at idle RPM
Spark Plugs : Motorcraft - AGRF22 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap - 1.00mm (check it is right or it will misfire...)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4 (1392cc) "CVH" - 1986-1990
Firing Order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed 750-850RPM, 800 being optimum _____ NOTE: This engine requires premium fuel (97 Ron) or it will run poorly - damage may result from using low grade fuel. ----------------------------
Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at idle RPM. Spark plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark plug gap 0.75mm (check this)

----------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4i Catalyst - 1.4 "CVH" 1392cc 1989-1990
Idle RPM 850-950RPM 900RPM Being optimum :This engine needs only regular unledad 95RON
Ignition timing - 8 to 12 degrees BTDC 10 degrees being optimum Spark PLugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C1 Champion - RC7YC
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford Escort 1.6 "CVH" 1596CC
Firing order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed - 750-850RPM - 800 being optimal Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at 800 RPM Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark Plug Gap - 0.75mm (check it!)
NOTE :This engine will run on regular fuel (95 RON) but the timing should be set to 8 Degrees BTDC at idle RPM for this fuel.
------------------------------------------------------------
FORD ESCORT 1.1 - 1989-1990 - 1118cc "HCS"
Firing order 1-2-4-3
Idle speed - 700-800RPM 750 Being optimal
This engine runs on regular or premium fuel without adjustment
Ignition Timing - 10 degrees BTDC
Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGRF22C1 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap 1.00mm (check this!)
-------------------------------------
So check your spark plug gaps with feeler guages if you don't have a feeler guage they're less than a fiver at a cheap motor shop - even pound shop and market stalls sometimes have them.
Apart from that lot - these cars can run bad if the battery is weak, they chug like hell on a half charged or failing battery, so make sure the battery is strong too...
The carburettor jets could be clogged or worn... Inlet manifold could be leaking?
Check the low tension wiring (the wiring on the ignition coil, the two round plugs that puch onto the coil) one red and one green/black/stripey/somethin - trace these two wires around the engine bay and check them for damage and loose connections.
Thats all I can think of right now tell me how you get on, I KNOW these cars... I'll go step by step if you need help checking everything/replacing whats wrong,
------------------------------
Good luck.

The firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2. If all the leads have been pulled off the dizzy cap, you'll have to remove No 1 spark plug (leave it threaded into the plug hole by 1 turn) and the dizzy cap. Turn the motor over by hand in the clockwise direction and listen for air being forced out of the No 1 plug hole. When you start to hear that, it means you are approaching TDC on No 1 cylinder. Now look at the front crankshaft pulley and stop turning the engine when the mark on the pulley is close to the marks on the timing belt cover. It doesn't have to be exact (unless you've removed the dizzy). Now where the dizzy rotor is pointing is where No 1 lead has to be fitted. Observe the direction of rotation of the rotor and the next point it comes to will be where you fit No 3 lead; No 4 lead next; and finally No 2 lead.

remove the dizzy cap, crank motor over to find out the rotation of the rotor. Remove the no.1 spark plug and bring no.1 piston up to top dead centre on compression stroke, mark side of dizzy body where the end of the rotor points to, replace dizzy cap and see which lead it lines up with.
that will be your no.1 lead, find the firing order and put the leads back on the dizzy cap in the direction of the rotors rotation, run those leads to the corresponding plugs and it should start.

Have you replaced the rotor in the dizzy and made sure the the leads are fimly attached to the dizzy cap.

yes