Question about Rheem 40 Gallon FVR NATGAS Low WATER HEATER 6YR 22V40SF

1 Answer

No water coming from hot valve on faucets

Experiencing at times (more frequent lately) that when we turn on the hot on faucets that no water pressure. cold is just fine. sometimes there is a noise like rattling at the water heater and then the hot water starts to come through. i took off the incoming flexible copper tubing and noticed a ball valve (plastic) and tried to push it down. using a flat screw driver with a little more force it pushed down. I put the tubing back on. turned incoming valve on and it seemed to work as hot water was now coming out. it did almost stop again but something seemed to give and works for most part.
i did notice that the cold water intake copper tubing gets a little warm, not nearly as hot as the hot outlet tubing. curious about two things:
1. what might be causing the hot water not to have pressure.
2. since i pushed (opened) the plastic ball valve, is it normal to have that incoming flexible tubing be a little warm?
tank has been in home since we moved in. at least 8 yrs old. it is a 40 gallon that uses gas.
Thanks

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Have you thought about possible calcium buildup in your hot water tank/pipes? I am helping a friend in Palm Springs CA (California not Canada) and we are going to pour a really huge pile of vinegar into the hot water tank (let it sit for a day) then open up the hot water taps to the kitchen (where we don't have hot water flowing very well), then going to let everything sit for another day. Remove the aerator from the kitchen faucet after letting the vinegar/water solution sit in the pipes for a day, and turn on the kitchen hot water tap. Once all the **** is drained out, you must of course drain out the vinegar/water solution from your hot water tank or you will smell like French Fries (in Canada we put vinegar on French Fries) when you shower for a few days.

If you don't understand what the basic chemistry of dissolving calcium via this method is all about, then please call a professional plumber. Hope this helps, and remember that Google is your friend (sometimes), but be careful...

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

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Drain hot water heater


turn off gas
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Jun 14, 2014 | Rheem 43VP50E2 50 Gallon FVR Natural Gas...

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Our rheem pronto tankless rutg-74xp red light will come home indicating hot water and stay on about 2 minutes and then turns off we have turned off and back on and let water run for 5 minutes and will come...


Before calling service technician, open following link for Rheem troubleshooting resources.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

List of causes MIGHT include one of following:
Bad household circuit breaker that powers electronics, or loose wire inside outlet where tankless plugs in.
Tankless fuses and control board.
Water flow rate too low. Minimum .8 gallon required (depending on model)
Tankless inlet filter clogged.
Household aerators clogged at faucets.
Crossover at single-handled faucet
If installed, there can be crossover at mixing valve.
Faulty household check valve, including check valve on re-circulation system if that system is installed.
Restriction in household water line, such as clog at elbow.
Unequal pressure in household hot and cold lines, caused by restriction in hot line. When single-handled faucet turns on, the cold water pressure is higher so hot does not flow and tankless will not turn on.
Loose wire connection inside tankless.
Unit temperature set too high.
Unit temperature set too low.
Water temperature is very hot coming out of tap, so more cold is added, but that reduces amount of hot water flow, so tankless turns off because flow rate is too low.
On some tankless, if water is preheated by solar or other indirect source, the burner will not activate.
High mineral content in water > delime tankless yearly
Misaligned temperature sensor
Low gas pressure. Wrong type of gas. Undersized gas line.
Too many faucets on at same time.
Faulty tankless water valve. Water valve stuck.
Fluctuating household water pressure, for example MUD and PUD district water pressure problems or water well pressure.
Faulty household pressure reducing/regulating valve if installed.
Faulty household pressure tank, if installed -or- pressure tank needs to be installed.

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I have a leak coming from the "cold" line right at the valve joint. There is signifigant calcuim build up on the pipe from the valve to the connection of the water heater, (maybe 8 inch of pipe)...


Very simple - call a Plumber. He will fix your plumbing problem, and any foreseen potential problems related to your water leak. He may also suggest replacing your 6 year old water heater. Of course ..... for a professional cost.
However, depending on your time, skills, proper tools, patience and luck, it's easy enough to perform yourself:
1. Switch off the water heater Breakers (220v) in your service panel.
2. Turn off the water supply to the water heater.
3. Attach a water hose to the drain faucet. ( a good time to flush sediment -calcium deposits)
4. Open a hot water faucet to vent (above the level of the water heater drain - kitchen sink)
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6. Install New pipes -3 wrap all male threaded ends with teflon Tap. Tighten securely - using 2 wrenches.
NOTE: Before refilling - you can turn on the water heater supply valve for a few minutes, to flush out any lingering calcium debris.
7. Shut off drain valve - remove hose. Shut off venting hot water faucet.
8. Turn on water supply valve to fill water heater.
9. Open a hot water faucet to relieve air pressure while filling - preferably the bath tub faucet, it doesn't have a screen that might clog.
10. When water flows without air - shut off tub faucet.
11. Look for leaks.
12. Switch the water heater Breakers on.
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These are just basic instructions - assuming you fill in the common sense and work safe steps.
Good Luck - The Skill will only come after trying.

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1 Answer

Turned off the hot water to fix a leaking tap. now the tap has no hot or cold water and the hot water tank valve is leaking?


It sounds like two problems.
Problem 1) Clog inside faucet or clog inside pipes at faucet
Remove supply tubes leading to faucet and see if problem is inside pipes or inside faucet.
My bet is clog inside faucet.

If you have galvanized pipe that meets copper pipe, this can be trouble spot.
Article on clogged water pipes at Inspectapedia:
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pipe_Clog_Repair_Guide.htm

Article on clogged pipes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/backflushing.html

Problem 2) Water heater leak ... you say tank valve is leaking? Is that cold-water shut-off valve? Or tank drain valve? Or TP valve?

If cold water shut-off is leaking, then replace shut off.

If tank drain valve is leaking, then check if plastic valve is cracked. If drain valve is cracked, then replace with a brass valve from Home Depot. If plastic valve breaks off, then use hammer and screwdriver to gently chip out the broken plastic valve. New valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. If valve is just dripping, then put garden-hose cap over end of valve and screw down tight.

If TP valve is leaking, then replace with same temperature and pressure rating.
New TP valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe.

Problem 3) If pressure is low all over house:
Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that screws onto hose connection.

Test pressure on outdoor spigot.
Open faucet and check if pressure drops. This says if problem is inside pipes that enter house.

Test pressure on water heater drain valve.
This says if pressure problem is before -or- after water heater.

If problem is before the water heater, then shut-off valve located on cold water line is suspect.
If problem is after water heater, it could be in hot water outflow pipe on top of water heater, or a nearby elbow.

Remove hot water line leading from water heater and check pressure. This says if problem is where hot water leaves tank.
Read articles above about clogs inside water lines.


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Assuming you are talking about the temperatur/pressure relief valve, it is stuck open.

1. Turn off gas or electric to water heater
2. Close water supply to water heater
3. open hot water faucet on nearest fixture to depressurize hot water system.
4. close tpr valve (you may have to push in on the center spine. It may be resistant to closing from sediment. If so, opening and closing several times may solve that issue.

Once you get the tpr valve closed, close the faucet and open the supply valve. If the tpr stays closed, go ahead and turn on the gas/electric and re-light pilot and turn on control etc.

If the TPR blows again, you will need to replace it. YOu can buy a new one at any plumbing supply store. Shut down the heater again, drain a bit of water out using the valve on the bottom of the tank. there is probably copper pipe connected to the TPR valve which you may have to cut or maybe can just unscrew. The TPR threads out of the tank, install the new valve (make sure to use pipe dope or teflon tape.

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