An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: Broken chain adjusting assembly
Are you aware Remington is no longer in production? Often eBay is the sole source for replacement parts. A local Husqvarna or Stihl dealer may have a suitable substitute. Take your cover, they are most helpful weekdays before 1500.
You do not give us the model number of your saw to verify this will fit. Remington.com http://shoppingcart.msservicecompany.com/Default.aspx • Type "YourModelNumber" into the "Search for your unit by Model:" window, then click search. • Click the "YourModelNumber" - Remington Electric Chain Saw "View Model" link. • Click "View Owners Manual" or "View Illustrated Parts Diagram" link. • Type "YourPartNumber" into the "Search for your parts by Part #:" window, then click search. A tension repair kit is available here: MasterParts.com http://www.masterparts.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MPD&Product_Code=108640-MD Part number 108640-MD; DESA SPECIALTY PARTS: KIT, ADJUSTMENT SCREW FOR SPROCKET COVER (REM-18); $5.95. Kit fits the following covers: 108640-01, 116675-01 and 108641-02 (note: for the 108641-02 the screw will adjust from the front with a screw driver, not with a thumb screw at the back) KIT INCLUDES: screw, clip & adjustment block. If not available here pleasse reply (below) with that information. TIA
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Good Luck. HTH Lou
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The proper sequence to installing the chain should be to first ensure the brake is in the 'unlocked' position then loosen the chain adjustment screw, slip the chain over the back of the sprocket, align the chain with the bar, slip the bar onto the bar mounting studs ensuring the adjustment pin slips into the appropriate hole in the bar. Then slip the outer chain cover over the bar studs, elevate the front end of the bar and tighten the bar mounting nuts to 'snug'. Adjust the chain tension to the desired setting ensuring the front of the guide bar remains elevated, then tighten the nuts to secure the bar.
Remember to unlock the brake BEFORE removing the bar and chain because it is so much easier to unlock it mounted on the saw if yours is the design that comes off with the cover.
Keeping the front of the bar elevated during assembly and adjustment of the chain will keep the chain tension correct for a much longer period.
George: The adjusting block is a round nut... it used to have a pawl sticking out from it, but the pawl has been broken off. The pawl sticks through the adjustment plate and into the bar so that when you turn the adjustment screw clockwise, it will pull the bar out to tighten the chain. I had the same problem when I loaned my saw and the chain came into contact with a chain link fence breaking the pawl off of the adjustment nut. Go online and order a new adjustment nut... they shouldn't cost more that a few bucks.
Ok.. with the cover off the clutch you notice the screw and the pin that is suppose to go into the hole.. with the chain on the bar back the screw until the pin sits in the hole of the bar.. The chain should be lose you will see the chain dangle at the bottom of the bar.. put the cover back on with it lose.. hand tighten the two nuts that hold the cover on. with the bar in hand and you pulling the bar up make sure the two nuts are on tight enough so the bar does not move but dont over tighten it. tighten the screw you will notice the chain starting to move, and start to tighten up.. once the chain is in the grove of the bar grab the chain and move the chain with your hand to make sure you have not over tighten it. if the chain moves freely and is not lose ( you can also double check how tight it is by grabbing the chain below the bar and letting it go if it snaps back into the bar and doesnt hang there you are where you need to be.) tighten the two nuts up on the cover and start up the saw. Run the saw to make sure everything is all set and nothing is lose before cutting.. If the chain never get to tighten up you need a new chain. buy a new chain and follow the steps again. let me know if you have any questions
There should be some bolts that allow you to tighten the bar, and a slot that allows the bar to slide when you loosen the bolts. Also, there should be some kind of adjusting screw that allows you to tighten the chain. To remove the old chain and install the new chain, you'll need to completely back off any tension on the adjuster, allowing the bar to move TOWARD the chain saw. You should keep the chain oiled, and whenever it stretches, even a little, you should adjust the chain according to the owners manual too keep it at the right tension. The two mounting slots are usually aligned with something that will keep the chain bar straight; such as a bolt or perhaps a pin in the motor assembly.
Start by removing the side cover held with one or two nuts ( make sure the chainbrake if fitted is de activated by pulling the hand guard fully back toward the rear of the saw until there is an audible click ) if the chain has de railed you need to check for damage to the drive links, file away any burs, or fit a new chain, screw the chain adjuster fully back, assemble the guide bar onto the bar bolts and push fully back toward the rear of the saw, loop the chain over the sprocket and into the guide bar rails with the cutter teeth on top of the bar facing away from the saw if the bar adjuster pawl is in the crankcase make sure it fits into the hole in the guide bar, assemble the side cover, if the adjuster pawl is in the cover make sure this lines up with the hole in the guide bar ( adjust the pawl screw if required ), assemble the bars nuts finger tight, now adjust the pawl screw so as the chain sits snuggley around the guide bar, pull the chain around the bar with a gloved hand to make sure it is sitting into the bar and sprocket correctly, lift the nose of the guide bar and tighten the bar nuts.
Remove the bar and chain. Lay the chain out on a bench or table and examine for sideways bent/broken links, badly damaged cutting teeth, or damaged drive teeth. Inspect the bar chain-groove all the way around for any damage. Make sure the tip sprocket turns freely and is not damaged. Check the sprocket on the clutch drum for hooked teeth or other damage. Clean the small oil passages that feed oil out to the chain groove in the drive end of the bar. Start the engine and check the engine side port where the bar fits to--it should ooze out oil from the small port there. If everything checks ok, re-assemble the bar and chain leaving the cover fasteners finger tight. Adjust the chain until it pulls up to the bar, but not so tight that you can't turn turn it by hand. Tighten the bar fasteners and re-check the chain tension. Start the engine and hold the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil after several moments of running at speed. Hope this helps!
The side cover mounting nuts must be loosened to allow the bar to move. If still no action from the adjuster, likely the small 'tang' that projects from the adjuster 'traveling nut/block' has been broken off. Remove the drive cover after releasing the chain brake. Turning the adjustment screw causes the block/nut to move along the screw and the tang pokes into one of the large holes in the drive end of the bar carrying the bar with it. Purchase a new part, or have a new tang welded onto the existing part. Hope this helps!