Question about Samsung RM255LASH Side by Side Refrigerator
There was a brief power drop during the night and my RM255LASH/XAA is
now alternating between "88 88" and "98 8e" -- meaning that the
lower-leftmost and lower-rightmost segments are blinking. Two days later
the appliance is still running (fridge is cool, freezer is frozen,
temps seem about right) but is not adjustable, buttons are unresponsive,
can't do a reset or get chimes to play.
From reading other problems/solutions on FixYa, I gather that this means EITHER (a) the two indicated components are bad or (b) the chips/components on the main board that that monitor those two components are fried. Since the problem coincides with a power event, I'm guessing it's the latter.
I've seen the service guide for the RS265-269 series. Not sure if the segment map in that document applies to my RM255LASH or not, but if it does then the segments would seem to be (12) CONDENSER FAN ERROR and (3) REFRIGERATOR DEFROST SENSOR. Now my questions:
1. Considering that these two error conditions happened on the same morning, following a power surge/drop, is it reasonable to assume I have an electronics problem and not an issue with the mechanical components?
2. I opened the back panel and (for a basic guy like me who can swap memory/drives etc. inside a PC) it looks fairly trivial to cut the main breaker and replace the main board. Before I shell out $150 (minimum) to $350 on a service call, should I just order a main board replacement and swap it DIY?
3. How likely is it that the error code map for the RS265-269 series might be the same for my model?
4. If I decide to leave the appliance in this state and just keep using it as a "dumb" non-adjustable fridge, is it possible to speculate on whether am I likely getting the factory-default temperatures or whatever temperatures we had last programmed before the power fault?
This exact situation happened with ours. We held the freezer and fridge buttons for 10 seconds and it reset. Seems to be running fine right now.
Posted on Jun 25, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Samsung RS2555SL humming noise
don't know this model specifically, but have had loads of problems with these samsung fridge-freezers. the no water in drinks dispensor is probably due to the water bottle at the bottom of the fridge being frozen. this is endemic with samsung the noise you hear is ice hitting fan. samsung use two systems for fan. the one i think you have is separate fans for fridge and freezer and a separate evaperator for fridge and freezer. take of the back plate of the fridge and you will find the fan mounted in it. disconnect the plug and socket connection. you will probably find ice build up round the fan blade. melt off with hot water. the bar you had showing on the "8" is a fault code - the most common fault being the defrost termination sensor. unless you are experienced, this is not really a diy appliance
Posted on Apr 02, 2007
I have RS2555 in same problem.my warranty is expired and Samsung hooked me up to an technician who asked for 300.00 for labor plus parts and tax, what a rip off!!I I called my Canadian friend who's a technician and I was told to POWER OFF the RS2555 for 24 hrs.both doors MUST open and take out all drawers,he said ,it is 90% the ICE blocked the cool airflowing,so if ICE melted,all will return to normal.
It works after I did what he said.share this and hope can help some one with same problem!
Posted on Mar 26, 2008
OK now I'm wondering are theses numbers your getting 4 -9 the actual temps of the refrigerator and the freezer? and do they feel this cold and correct to you? I know the refrigerator side shouldn't be below 34 or so and definitely not below 32. If this is correct and the numbers are not settings but temps. (Now if you have a touch pad its electronic. If it has knobs it has a separate defrost and thermostat and are electro-mechanical)
If electronic Your control board and possibly defrost control are out.
It would more likely be the sensors going to the board(s) It will both sensors have the possibility of causing your problem. 1 will control the run of the compressor (and this one could and probably is connected to the inside coil) and 1 will control the air damper tween the refdg and freezer compartments, and may turn on the inside fan operation too.
(this would be my first suspect if these are degrees numbers). Look at the thermostat control see if it is attached to the indoor coil (usually the tube leavign the indoor section. If its not attached its not sensing the coil temp and when goes into defrost wala its not senmsing temps like its designed to do. Look for a broken clip or possible a plastic wire tie that holds this sensor in place.
Please get back to me with what you see - find on this look up.
Posted on Mar 18, 2009
orrixcreek i have the same problem. how do you go into the samsung diagnostic? i pressed different buttons at the same time and they're giving me gibberish i dont understand. which specific buttons to press and what exactly do the codes mean? i called samsung and they told me the fridge was probably in "demo mode" that is used on the sales floor and they had me pressed the two left buttons for 6 seconds and a bleep occurred and the LCD went dim. it really didnt fix the problem.
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
you would actually be surprised if i were you I would call samsung they are usually very good about there units having issues like you have went through within the first year in a half and when was it that you had to pay the 350 for the defrost thermostat was it before a year before you yourself replaces such board i would first give samsungs customer service line a call and with the warrantys on there electonic parts and compressor and after you have told them about all the issues you have had im sure they would have a much better repair option then you paying for the board and do me a favor message me back with what they said I do know a couple in the samsung chain and have found them alot more easier to deal with then maytag if they do offer no assistance then I will instruct you further on how to test and find whats causing the issue at hand but lets see if we can get them to own up to the problem at hand which would be there product they made that has given you nothing but misery I await your reply Thanks Rick
Posted on Apr 21, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 10, 2016 | Samsung Computers & Internet
Oct 10, 2013 | Samsung Televison & Video
That problem is usually have 2 causes..Its either power supply board or main board..
Please take this steps on how to determine the problem:
Open the back
Check the power
supply output...It should have 5vdc for the main board..12vdc or
16vdc for the audio and 24vdc for the back-light inverter..
If those 3 voltage
supplies have encountered voltage drop...The problem could be on
power supply board..
If the power supply
output is normal..The problem could be on the main board...
If the problem is
power supply you should check if the capacitors are bulged on the
top and try to replaced it..If you can't do that you can purchased
new power supply board..
If the problem is
on main board there is no D.I.Y repair on that so you need to buy a
new main board that fits to your TV..
this solution will be helpful..
Thanks for using fixya...
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