Question about General Electric WHDSR209DWW Top Load Washer

2 Answers

My washer fills with water and thats it, it wont agitate, or spin , but it does drain the water out. i know i have power in and out of my lid switch, i know the timer is sending power to the motor, i have never seen this before but the motor has a control board mounted at the to of it. do i have a bad motor possibly, the washer is about 2 yrs old.

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  • J-run Apr 26, 2010

    I have a G.E. top load washer that fills with water then stops, I have tested the lid switch i know it is good, the timer is sending power to the motor. it wont agitate or spin, but it drains jsut fine. the motor has a control board mounted to it, i was wondering if the board is bad or the motor,

  • J-run Apr 26, 2010

    My G.E. top load washer will fill with water then stop, i know the lid switch is good, i have power to the motor. It wont spin or agitate, but it does drain the water out. there is a control board mounted on the motor could that possibly be bad.

  • J-run Apr 26, 2010

    No I have not. I'm not home right now, Nothing against you I have never tried this type of approach to fixing my appliances, I wanted to see what the 3'rd reply would have said, so i can compare the 2 most comon answers. Like I said nothing against you its something new to me. I priced the motor out and it pretty pricey, I do appreciate your advice though

  • J-run Apr 26, 2010

    How would I by pass that board, I'm comfortable with testing it, where do I start

  • J-run Apr 26, 2010

    Is that board seperate from the motor or does it come with the motor

  • J-run Apr 26, 2010

    I really appreciate the help I received from (emissionwiz) I know I annoyed him a little but he was very helpfull, thanks for the great service!!!

  • J-run Apr 26, 2010

    My- inlaws have an bosch nexxt 500 series elec. dryer. its getting an error E:01 what could that be

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Most likely the motor control board is defective, u can test the motor by byp[assing the control board with clip leads from a 110 volt source, only do this with great caution and if you have allot of experience doing these types of electrical tests, if u are not comfortable with this Please call Sears or some other local appliance repair service..

Posted on Apr 26, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • yadayada
    yadayada Apr 26, 2010

    U asked for assistance which u got, have u tried testing the motor?

  • yadayada
    yadayada Apr 26, 2010

    the board mounted on the motor is the circuit board i am referring to. it is called the motor control board

  • yadayada
    yadayada Apr 26, 2010

    I gave u an approch, u shot me down before any testing was even attempted, good luck ficxing this

  • yadayada
    yadayada Apr 26, 2010

    disconnect the board from the motor, then make up a clip lead to supply 120 volts to the motor. I really doubt the motor is defective, the boards are what fails almost 99% of the time.

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Hi.

This is usually a problem with the water temperature sensing. If the problem was the motor it would be detected by control board, and cycle would stop with a fault code.
The fault description will be slightly different if machine is not self heating. In this case check the water inlet hose, and ensure that the dual inlet valve is OK. The valve is tested reading continuity. A dual valve can also be tested swapping hose. If the Hot inlet is bad, the machine with swapped hoses will not fill at all because warm water is filled last.

If the machine fills and heats up the water (r fill warm water), but does not proceed any further in cycling , that means that the timer board did not detect that the correct temperature has been reached.

In this case the machine keeps heating or filling warm water, and the cycle does not advance, or the machine stalls with cold water inside, and cycle still will not advance.

When this happens it usually means that the thermostat is faulty.

The thermostat can be tested by a technician reading Ohms at its contacts and jumping or opening its contacts.
The thermostat must read zero or very low impedance at room, and it will cut off reading no continuity when the limit temperature is reached.
If the machine keeps cycling , then the thermostat is not opening, or it is not reading temperature because defective.

To find parts you can use the links listed here: Parts and diagrams.

If you need to call a technician, use the phone number listed on the owners manual or see Fixya directory.


Regards.

Posted on Apr 26, 2010

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1 Answer

Wont spin, drain or agitate


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The Lid switch is the most common problem with what you have descibed.

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Sounds like a bad lid switch. When you close the top lid, there is a safety switch that closes, it is actuated by a pin attached to the lid, there will be a small hole located on top of the machine, somewhere on the perimter of the top of the tub. Could also be a bad timer.

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need to know if it agitates or drains and just wont spin.
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3 Answers

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Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains.

Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain.

Which one is it?

The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following:

1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch.
2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling.
3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case.
4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump.

NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms.

Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight.

If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate.

If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385199-replacing_lid_switch_whirlpool_top

If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A). If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch. With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself. However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose. This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac. These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity. If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console. CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.

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alot of times the washer will drain but we hurriedly cut it off when we hear noise or the water is out but it never spinned and so the clothes are soapy wet...

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