Question about Intermatic Inc. ML121RT Malibu Low Voltage 121-Watt Power Pack with Timer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Les, First thing to do is to change the battery and see if the timer will allow you to reprogram it. Sometimes these timers will fail, as some models have a known history of failing fairly often.
NoOp, means non operating within the Intermatic line of electronic timers, so in order to see if the unit has failed or is just malfunctioning, due to a weak battery, remove the existing battery and install a fresh, new one.
You can remove the existing battery by flipping down the front switch panel and removing the battery tray with either your fingernail or a small flat bladed screwdriver. As your timer is showing the NoOp, you don't have to worry about losing your programmed on/off cycles, so you can take your time. Normally, if you're changing the battery, you get about 30 seconds to do this with some models of Intermatic timers, or you'll lose the settings. The newer models store the program regardless of how long it takes to change the battery.
Once you've replaced the battery, press the Reset button on the timer and allow it to refresh. If the NoOp is gone, just reprogram the timer with your on/off cycles and days and you're back in action. If the timer doesn't clear, you'll likely need to replace it, as it could be damaged and will not be able to be programmed again.
Usually, changing the battery and resetting the timer works about 60% of the time for me, as I've installed thousands of the various Intermatic timers in customer's homes over the years.
Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
Let's review your wiring. There's probably something miswired when you get symptoms like that. Let's work one circuit at a time.
For circuit #1, the incoming (LINE) black (hot) wire is connected to the #3 terminal. The white (neutral) is connected to the "A" terminal. The bare equipment grounding wire is connected to the "GR" terminal (the green screw on the case).
The outgoing (LOAD) black wire to the first set of lights is connected to terminal #4 and the outgoing white (neutral) wire connects to the "A" terminal. The outgoing bare wire to the lights goes to the "GR" terminal. It's best to twist the wires together with a pigtail, wirenut them and connect the pigtail to the "GR" terminal.
Now for separate circuit #2. The incoming (LINE) black (hot) connects to terminal #1. The incoming white (neutral) connects to terminal "A". The incoming bare wire connects to the "GR" terminal.
The outgoing (LOAD) black wire to the 2nd set of lights connects to the #2 terminal. The outgoing white (neutral) goes to the "A" terminal. It's OK to twist all the white neutral wires (incoming _and_ outgoing for _both_ circuits) together with a pigtail that goes to the "A" terminal. Use a red wirenut.
As long as you don't load the 15 amp breaker over 12 amps (this is considered a continuous circuit and it cannot be loaded over 80% per NEC), you don't have to have two circuits if you don't want too. Figure about 1 amp per light as long as the lights aren't over 100 watt. (100 watt lamp/120 volts = 0.83 amps (round to one amp)
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
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