I have two SLM r12s focused together on a theater stage focused to center stage. we have a down stage drop that comes in at various points in the show. our current solution is to shut one projector down to eliminate the blur, but it generates a weak image. the projectors are our back drop for the show we have various white cloth sections that come in and out for our screen surface.
My Question is: is there a way to set a que in the units to have them shift their focus to the downstage and then back to center during a show (without bringing up a menu)? so i do not have to turn one of one unit and maintain my image quality.
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Re: Can i set up my barco to focus change on que
These units can be computer controlled to a degree. I am atempting to find the particular incantations required to do this. I believe that it is possible, but I want to verify that before I commit to it.
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I see your camera has a focus area. If you have a subject with enough contrasting parts in this area, the focusing should work fine.
You must know that not every subject can be focused on as quick or as good as you would like. If there are little contrasting lines in the subject, or when it is getting dark or there are dark and light parts in the focus area, that don't belong together, every camera can have problems to focus correct. Changing the ISO settings won't change anything for the auto focus.
But special when you try to shoot in almost dark places, you camera will have lots of work to focus and in most cases it won't work at all.
You could try to place an object with light and dark lines, on the same distance as the object you want to picture. Then by pressing the shutter half, when focusing on the object with much contrast, you can look if the camera can focus. If it is in focus, keep the shutter pressed half way down, while moving to the object you want to shoot a picture of. Once you have every thing in the frame as you want it, press the shutter complete.
It is one of the autofocus schemes Canon uses. If you did get the manual, P121 discusses how to set the size.
They do not officially define it other than as one of the auto focus modes between "face detect" and "Center" focus. Center focus is just that- a single focus beam down the center of the lens. The AiAF is a larger target area, and essntially each of the 9 blocks you see when you set your camera is a location where a focus beam will be.
It is a part of the fuzzy logic of the camera that uses the light metering strategies as the framework for the focusing strategies for lack of a better description. So maybe a better pnemonic would be "Activity in Auto Focus."
I don't believe that you can purchase this lamp as a bare bulb through official channels. It is an expensive lamp + projector and buying cheap copies is likely to be a risky business, definitely not supported by Barco. Prices seem to start at around £3500 GBP (ex VAT) or $5500 USD (ex TAX)
If you are in the UK, here are the 1st two suppliers I found
Given the fact that it is such an expensive lamp you should be able to negotiate a competitive price. I'd get on the phone to any potential supplier and ask them for their very best price rather than buying off the net.
Yes you can. Probably the best way is to remove the whole focusing assembly, otherwise once you remove the stage, you will have the sub-stage (where the condenser is) in your way. To remove the entire focusing assembly, you will first need to remove the sub-stage. On the left hand side of the sub-stage arm you will see a tiny set screw. It should be a flat head one, and you don't need to remove it all the way, but you have to back it of a ways. Once the screw is backed off far enough, the sub-stage can be lower down to a point at which it will come off. That will expose 4 hex screws; remove those 4 screws and the entire focus assembly will come off.
That should give you enough room for a violin to fit under it, but you are still going to have issues with focusing in on it. With the focusing assembly gone, there is no way to easily adjust your focus. You will literally need to act as the focusing assembly by lifting it up, or pursing it further way. You will also run into an issue with light... there isn't going to be any, but you can use an external light source from above, like a desk lamp or better yet a flash light; something that has a focused light would be best. Ideally this would be a fiber optic light source.
If you haven't already bought a microscope yet though, I would strongly consider getting the right type of microscope for this, which is a stereo for magnification of 100x or below, or you could do it will a transmitted inverted metallurgical microscope for magnifications above 100x. Where you might be able to get the micromaster to work, it really isn't the most ideal candidate for this type of application.
First, a scope of this grade will not be completely in focus as you move from one magnification to the next. But it should be close enough that you do not loose your point of interest.
Be sure you are not pressing down on the stage specimen platform as you change magnifications. It is very sensitive to pressure.
Also, be sure that the coarse focus tension is tight enough that the platform is not drifting down imperceptibly as switch magnifications. Look through the scope and watch if the image goes out of focus while you are watching it. If so, you have what is called "stage drift".
This is corrected by tightening the tension on the coarse focus knob.
The tension adjustment is on the coase focus shaft. It looks like a chrome ring with about 3 holes in it. There should have been a strange looking tool that came with your scope. It is used to adjust the tension. If your specimen is "drifting" out of focus, simply tighten the tension ring a little bit at a time until the specimen no longer goes out of focus. Do not get it so tight that it is not easy to operate the coarse focus knob.
This is due to settings change Please switch the focus mode to multi point focus or any other current setting will be center focus or spot focus that is why only the center is focused and the rest is blurry Please refer to your fuji manual for instructions on how to change the focus mode
Thanx and i hope this solves your problem Please dont forget to rate this information
There are two stages to the shutter release. The first stage is the focus stage pressed half way down and the second stage is the actual shutter release. Always press the shutter half way to get the camera focused first then press all the way down when the camera is ready to take the shot. Check to see how the settings are with regard to how it focuses (9-point, face recognition, etc). When the camera focuses you should get a green box or multiple green boxes depending on your settings. That tells you the camera is ready to take the picture. Pressing the shutter all the way down at once from the beginning will cause the pause you describe since the camera has to first focus then shoot the picture. Depending on the subject or subjects the camera may take a second or two longer to focus. With good lighting my G9 focuses pretty fast. Hope this helped.