When it is switched on, it behaves normally and provides cooling. After about 3 - 4 minutes has elapsed, the sound from the compressor motor indicates that the load on it is increasing. It will continue to get noisier until the motor finally comes to a stop (Sounds like a thermal cut-out has cut the supply to the motor to protect it) After about a minute, it cuts in again and behaves normally, but once again, the whole process is repeated as descriped above.
While the compressor is rotating, cooling is taking place.
The system was topped up with gas recently, prior to that, no cooling was taking place.
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Re: External unit noisy
Sounds like bearings are out on the compressor. I'm assuming that it's not the fan motor making the noise, cause if it was - and the fan motor is cycling on and off - it (fan moter cycling on/off) will also cause the compressor to cycle on and off.
But, since you say it's the compressor (from which the noise is coming from) I would have to say the compressor's bearings are out and since it's a hermetic (sealed) compressor - your only option is to have a service tech check it out to be sure.
Note: I think you are correct (in thinking) a thermal overload is cutting off the compressor, because the compressor does have a 'saftey overload' built internally in the compressor just for that reason.
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It's going thru the defrost cycle. Once that ends, the unit should restart. If it doesn't wait until 3 minutes have elapsed, after the stop light goes out and restart the unit. If that fails, turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to OFF & unplug the unit. Wait 15 minutes, plug the unit back in and turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to ON. The unit should have reverted back to the original factory settings. If so, reset the controls as you like.
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Turn the ignition to ON, then wait 10 minutes for the next step in the programming sequence.
After the 10 minutes has elapsed, the car horn will chirp once. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position within 5 minutes after the horn has sounded, then to the ON position within 5 seconds after switching it OFF.
Leave the key to the ON position for 10 minutes . After the 10 minutes has elapsed, the car horn will chirp twice. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position within 5 minutes after the horn has sounded, then to the ON position within 5 seconds after switching it OFF.
Leave the key to the ON position for 10 minutes . After the 10 minutes has elapsed, the car horn will chirp 3 times.
Verify that the security indicator in the instrument cluster has stopped flashing and attempt to start the vehicle.
Turn the ignition to OFF and remove the key from the ignition switch.
Move approximately 3 meters (10 ft) away from the vehicle and test the transmitter functions to validate that the transmitter has been programmed successfully.
Do you mean it will run all night if you let it? The cooling fan can run for quite some time after the car is off and it is normal for it to behave that way, but if it runs all night.....sounds like you need to replace temperature sensor and/or switch.
duffy325, Don't mess with it!!! Get SAMSUNG to give you a new or REFURBISHED unit t0 replace your BAD unit. Your unit is behaving like I would expect a 3-5 year old unit. It's got a power supply problem, not a front panel switch gone bad problem. FYI also visit YOUTUBE for the longer video clips of "LCD monitor disassembly" and "LCD monitor repair" to find out some common KNOWN failure mechanisims why they fail!! You will be amazed! With your unit's behavior I suspect a "flakly backlight or SMPS/INVERTER" problem. bye for now. If this was of some help, do rate this response on fixya. 12fixlouie
I would attempt to connect the drive after the system has booted up. If the external drive is found and accessible copy the data to another drive. If the external refuses to be recognized, allow the drive to cool completely 2-3 hrs, place the unit in a freezer for 2-3 hrs and then try the procedure again. Often times when the drive units or platters within the HD begin to fail you get symptoms as you have described. Super cooling the drive sometimes allows you to remove the data. If not and the data contained within the drive is valuable to you there are software solutions as well as companies that specialize in the data recovery field.
It sounds like the audio power amplifier is failing in the unit, it's kinda classic for an audio amplifier to fail when it gets hot, then work again when it cools down.
I'd suggest deleting the language you're using, then reload v7.2 firmware and the language. No reason why this should work, but it doesn't cost anything. If not you're looking at a $250 Garmin flat rate repair.
This is normal operation for these styles of minisplits. The thermostat is not in the remote but is located on the return air of the indoor coil, so the air needs to be flowing in order for the thermostat to measure the rooms temperature. Set your fan speed to auto and the fan will slow down when setpoint tempurature is met.