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Re: No cooling, suction pressure reads vacuum Split AC
If the unit runs normally and then goes to a vacuum and the refrigeration effect quits than you have a leak, a pretty good sixed one that should not be too tough to fix, the best way to deal with this today is a sealant, its about $50 if you do it. If it was restricted the unit would not cool and then quit unless it has a floater, a particle that clogs the metering device briefly etc or a obstructed filter dryer etc
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there is no suction at all when the machine is off as the gas equalizes around the system
all you will read is the pressure of the gas in the system and that will tell you nothing
to read gas pressures you need to know the type of gas in the system , have gauges that can handle the high pressures and have two on a manifold so that you can read suction and high side pressure differences
That way you can see if the system is low on gas or over charged
I have noticed some good advice here when it comes to pulling a vacuum and recharging a refrigerator. I also have seen some not so good response to answers when it comes to someone that is new to pulling a complete vacuum. *Refrigerators and absolute Vacuum are about the most difficult combinations to obtain. First mankind has never achieved absolute vacuum and the closest we will come in our life time to complete or absolute vacuum is in outer space. When repair is done to a sealed system there are a few things to remember. 1 Once a sealed system is opened never leave it unsealed to the outside environment. Most new refrigerators have ester oil as a lubricant and ester oil will draw moisture from the air and hold it in the oil resulting in the oil carrying moisture particles up the capillary tube and creating a blockage that appears as if the suction side is pulling a deep vacuum. 2 Always replace filter drier with a new filter drier and arrow pointed into the correct direction. 3Always find and fix a leak in a sealed system before recharging. * Some leaks are in the Yoder Condenser Loop and the only way to fix is to bypass. This will sometimes show up as sweating around the door frame but much better to deal with than complete refrigerator replacement. 4Pull a vacuum as long as it takes to boil off any moister that may be trapped in the sealed system. If system has no leaks and you use a heavy duty vacuum pump this is about a hour. 5Always test gauges for leaking seals in gauges before spending so much time pulling any vacuum. *Bad gauge seals will result in moisture or poor vacuum results. 6Always charge refrigerators by weight. *Refrigerators use very little Freon. 6-8 ounces, over or under charging will result in poor cooling results all the time. 7Never try to solder steel to copper piping with just silver solder. * Always use eutectic solder for soldering copper to steel. * In this case eutectic solder is defined as Flux-Coated Silver Brazing Alloy. For example Safety-Silver 45 by Harris. 8Always use the correct oil for the correct refrigerant. * Too much, too little or wrong lubricant will damage the system. If you have questions please let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze Here is more....... As we talked earlier I did some research on Fijitsu Split systems and as always with these units they is very little in instructions or model/size category to give good solid answers to all the possible problems you may be having. I do know with my experience that the R410A are critical during installation that they havea very good and long vacuum during pre-charging the lines during installation. One little bit of outside air in the lines will cause extreme head pressures that will also simulate some of the symptoms you described today. R410a runs at 60% higher pressure that the older R22 units did and purge and clean silver solder of fittings is critical to the unit's performance. Even a crimp in a discharge line makes for problems during installation. here is a link=> Brochure here=> http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/PDF_06/halcyon06_brochure.pdf If you need more answers feel free to contact me here or through my profile and again Thanks for using Fixya, Sea Breeze
to start with it will be high vacuum reading as suction is low pressure
secondly it means that the system is vacant of any gas and is well below 0 psi
if it is a high discharge pressure ( after the ac compressor) it means that the condenser is not being cooled by the fan or you have excessive gas in the system or the tx valve is blocked
I strongly suggest that you seek the services of an accredited ac specialist shop as r134a gas runs at a lot higher pressure that the r12 or r22 gas before you do serious damage to the ac compressor and system
DID YOU USE AN EVACUATION PUMP TO PUT A VACUUM ON THE SYSTEM AND OBSERVE WHETHER IT HELD THE VACUUM OVER TIME? THIS IS A LEAK CHECK. DID YOU USE GUAGES TO ADD THE CORRECT CHARGE VOLUME? WERE THE READINGS DIVERSE ONE HI READING AND ONE LOW READING? IS THE SUCTION LINE GETTING COLD UNDER THE HOOD? THE LARGE AC LINE THAT ENTERS THE CAR AT THE FIREWALL IS THE SUCTION LINE. DOES THE COMPRESSOR CLUTCH ENGAGE?
have you removeing the filter from the front of it sometimes colecting all that dust in it can cause it send only luke warm air out also if youve had it on none stop it can sometimes freeze but then letting it sit for a couple hours to a day usually solves that
If you are not a service technician you probably won't have the tools you will need to accomplish the move. Here is what it takes, step bye step. 1. Pull the fuses or turn off the electrical breaker in the house. 2. Hook up a gauge manifold to the Condensing unit ports for the liquid and suction lines. 3. Hook up a Refrigerant recovery machine to the manifold. 4. Recover the refrigerant into recovery tanks down to a trace, no vacuum. 5. Disconnect the electrical whip and control wiring from the condenser. 6. Close off the service valves on the liquid and suction lines at the condenser. 7. Slowly unscrew the copper line connections to the condensing unit to relieve any pressure that may exist from Refrigerant boiling out of the oil in the compressor and quickly cap them. 8. Move the unit to your new, firm and level location. 9. Remove the old electrical disconnect and whip and move it to the condenser. 10. Buy a new line set of the proper length or extend the old one with Refrigeration copper and couplings preserving the condenser couplings. 11. Replace the liquid line drier and reconnect the copper lines to the condensing unit. Replace the "O" Rings if needed to insure a good seal. 12. Hook up a vacuum pump to your gauge manifold. 13. Open the isolation valves on the condenser. Depending on the oil type in the system, evacuate to 250 Microns. 13. Charge system with 50 pounds of Nitrogen and a little Refrigerant for a trace test. 14. Watch your gauges for a drop in pressure indicating a leak. 15. Check all fittings and any splices with a good Halogen gas detector. 16. Evacuate the system again to the point of vaporization of the oil in the compressor being careful not to boil it off. 17. Close off all ports on your manifold and install a small drier to your Refrigerant line. 18. Re-install the recovered Refrigerant, running it through the small drier on your manifold. 19. Re-check for leaks. 20. Install the electrical whip on the contacter and the control wires on the contacter coil. 21.Start the AC and check the running amps against the name plate Full Load Amps (FLA) or Regular Load Amps (RLA) and check the Refrigerant charge against the units chart. Either in your owners manual or glued to the electrical access cover. Method 2 = Instead of recovering the refrigerant, you can pump it into the condensing unit. With your gauge manifold tied in, close the liquid line isolation valve. Run the compressor till the compound gauge reads 1 pound and close the suction line isolation valve. Doing it this way will eliminate the need for the recovery machine and heavy tanks. All else remains the same. Special tools needed = Compound gauge (meaning it reads both pressure and vacuum). High pressure gauge, gauge manifold and at least 3 hoses, a vacuum pump, leak detector (or soap bubbles) and an amp probe. Please rate this response. Thanks for asking!
Make sure the outside fan is running. Also check the high side pressure, I assume the 70# is the low side pressure, so you can tell what the compressor is doing. If the fan and compressor are both working, make sure there is good airflow through outdoor coil and check that it is clean. Let me know what you find.
Your AC cooling efficiency is low when he ambient temperature is high and naturally it cools well when the outside temperature drops. Please remove the filter on the grill and try to clean it under the tap water and after removing all the dust fix it back to the unit. This would increase the cooling efficiency of the unit. Your AC is also five years old. Please avoid frequent opening of doors or windows. Ensure that the exhaust fan and the blower of your unit are functioning normal. The technician might not have done a proper job in fixing the area where the refrigerant would have leaked out. Please check the refrigerant pressure to ensure that no further refrigerant leak has taken place. Or even servicing your unit he would have punchered the tubes resulting in very slow leak of refrigerant resulting in no cooling or less cooling. It takes around a month to feel the pinch of it and the refrigerant. One fine morning after sometime the unit will run and it would start throwing hot air instead of cool breeze!