Question about Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

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What is a code 52 on the GWL11 Fisher Paykel Clothes Washer?

The 3rd, 4th and 6th light is on when checking the error code. Does anyone know what this is. Seems to have something to do with filling.
Wouldn't you know it. 1 month past 2 year warranty

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52 diverter valve fault

Posted on Jun 21, 2008

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Changed cold valve in about 15 minutes with help of online write ups. My GWL11 problem was an error 49, fill problem. Washer would fill initially but only with hot water. Then would not fill for any later wash/rinse cycles. It would spin, dripping in water, and eventually timeout and beep. Repair guy looked at it quoted $420 plus tax for cold valve replacement. Machine is nearly 3 yrs old so that wasn't worth it. Ordered part from sears (which came to $48 w/ tax and shipping) Part # 420238P.
I also went in and turned off 'controlled cold' so the valve is no longer trying to heat the incoming cold water to 60 degrees. Light is now amber for uncontrolled cold so new valve has less to do. Cold valve is too smart - breaks alot.

Posted on Feb 05, 2009

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Error 49. Is a water solenoid. Have a good look at it as it has a similar set of LEDS. Look to see the white coils is smooth and not got any lumps or burns. You have 2 to compare. If you can measure them as below. I got one on Ebay for $40 delivered. Still displayed the same problem. Below is my solution. I didn't ant to pay for a new controller.

I replaced the solenoid but still had binary 49 LED code. I chased the circuit through the Motor Controller (brown one in Australia) GW712.

It was a couple of FETS or Qs in a H drive. The get fed their +v from the main power rectifier. There is a funny looking round component called F^ which is a quick blow 1.6 A fuse. Because my solenoid had a shorted turn on it (bubling to outside packaging) it had blown this.

I didn't have one instock so I substituted an ordinary glass 2AG 2.0amp fast blow. You need to remove the old fuse and solder 2 wires into the holes left these are inturn soldered to the fuse ends. I used hot glue to hold the fuse clear of any other components.

You can get slow blow fuses almost anywhere. In my experience ordinary fuses are the same they always fail after the components are lost anyhow!

If you are desperately dirty you could just jump the 2 holes with tinned copper but this could represent a fire hazard if a solenoid goes again.

We amke microcontrollers. It is a simple fix and saved me $350. A fuse is 10c or maybe $1 if you buy them one at a time. Make sure you test the plugs before you start up. My GW712 read:

1. Each motor winding ~ 35 ohms to any other
2. The lid solenoid ~ 70 ohms
3. Each water solenoid ~ 60 ohms
4.The thermistor ~ 10K ohms


# When this fault exists you can empty the water by removing the tube to the Pressure Xducer and using a tube from your mouth to blow into it HARD!!! The pump will start and pump it out for you.

To calculate the error code (for what use that is when you can find out)


LEDS indicating wash cycle

X X X X X X X X

128 64 32 16 8 4 2 1

Add the values for each light LED

Posted on Mar 26, 2008

  • Slate Jul 04, 2012

    can you point me to those "online write ups"? and how did you turn off the controlled cold? Thanks!

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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