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I have a Telefunken Superheterodyne D768 BK Trop radio. It used to run on batteries 1,5/90 volts. I want to have a 120 volt power supply to run it but do not know the va to run it. I am also confused as to the voltage. It appears to run on a DC voltage from 1,5 to 90 volts. I need to confirm the voltage and know the VA. Thanks

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HOW MACH COST THIS RADIO? I HAVE ONE

Posted on Oct 20, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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mark24354
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SOURCE: speaker compatibility

First, the voltage. Your easiest solution would be to go to Radio Shack and buy a voltage converter. This will allow you to run 220 V appliances from your 110 - 120 V power supply. Make sure the unit you buy has a 2-blade plug on it like any other cord in your house.

The reason i say, make sure it looks like other cords in your house is because you can also buy a Travel Converter. The travel converter allows you to use your 120 V equipment in other countries (converts from 220 -> 110 instead of what you want 110 -> 220). These ususally have several odd-looking plugs with them that can be changed.

Also be sure you get an adapter that is for appliances and actually says it converts from 110 -> 220. Best bet is to talk with the Radio Shack, Frys or other electrical equipment store personnel. They have seen this question before.


For your second question, the speakers. High-end recievers are ususally sold without speakers. To find compatable speakers, look on the back of your receiver. It should say what power output (per speaker) your receiver will deliver. Usually between 35 and 100 W/channel. If you have a really powerful unit, then it may be upto 200W. This number will ususally be close to the speaker output jacks. Get speakers that can handle the power (speaker watts should be the same or Bigger than receiver watts). If you can't find speakers (or don't have speakers) that can handle that power, it is ok to use lower power rating speakers but don't turn the power up all the way. For example - if your speakers can handle 50 W and receiver can put out 100 watts/channel, then only turn volume up 25% of max. If speakers can handle 25 W and receiver is 100 W, only turn volume to 12% of max. This is only a short term solution - you will eventually not be able to resist turning it up more and you will "blow" your smaller speakers. This may also cause some damage to the output transistors on your receiver.

One other thing to look for on speakers - the "impedence rating". This is usually listed ont he speaker as 4, 8 or 16. On high power units, the 4 or 8 "ohm" is the common rating. The greek letter OMEGA may be used in place of the word OHM to show impedence ( the letter looks like a rounded version of _/\_ ). On high power receivers, you should make sure to match the impedence of the speakers with what the back of the receiver says to use (receiver will also say 4, 8 or 16 ohm - usually near the speaker output jacks - if not there, look all over the back panel or the owners manual).

Good luck.

-Please rate me

Posted on Mar 19, 2010

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: I have one stereo radio cassette recorder model

7.5V, 500mW

Posted on Aug 03, 2010

  • 55 Answers

SOURCE: Amplifier is dead. Relay in

it is in auto protect mode, something wrong with your transistor/ic

Posted on Sep 22, 2010

dunnbiker
  • 8546 Answers

SOURCE: supplied by 21 volts instead

The product you're inquiring about is not showing in your post. Name the make and model first, then we'll look for the manual. Then (maybe) find a solution. You might find it at the manufacturer's support site or these guys...

retrevo.com
audio.manualsonline.com
hifiengine.com
usermanualguide.com
Google search: "(product) manual"
As for its probably fate, if you smelled smoke instead of just blowing a fuse it might be sufficiently cooked to write it off and get a new one.

Posted on Apr 30, 2011

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How do I hardwire this unit for an in home use installation?


You would need to have a stable 12 volt DC power supply that plugs into a 120 VAC outlet. You can google these, and they come in quite a few varieties. The most expensive are the variable voltage "lab grade" ones, then the bench grade fixed voltage variety, and then the cheap consumer grade 12 volt 1 or 2 amp device designed for CB's and small 12 volt devices. But this will not work, because you are transmitting and could be putting out 40 or 50 watts with that thing. So you will need a good 10 amp to 20 amp dedicated transceiver power supply, unless you just plan on receiving in which case you only need a couple of amps and the cheapie will do. It's always better to have more amperage in a power supply. You then need to think about issues like back-up power with a gel cell 12 volt battery, which also would allow you to use the cheapie supply, because you would have plenty of current to XMIT from the battery. Schematic shows a very basic 12v - 30 amp supply. Good luck!

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What is causing the battery to drain?


Running the car will drain the battery it if it's not charging ! An if your charging light is on it isn't charging ! Did you check power an grounds on the alternator ? There is a single heavier wire on the back of the alternator, this should have battery voltage ! You may want to take this to a ASE certified repair shop !
Functionality
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, voltage is applied through the warning indicator I circuit 904 (LG/RD) to the voltage regulator. This turns the regulator on, allowing current to flow from battery sense A circuit 35 (OG/LB) to the generator field coil. When the engine is started, the generator begins to generate alternating current (AC) which is internally converted to direct current (DC). This current is then supplied to the vehicle's electrical system through the output (B+) terminal of the generator.
Once the generator begins generating current, a voltage signal is taken from the generator stator and fed back to the regulator S circuit 4 (WH/BK). This voltage feedback signal (typically half the battery voltage) is used to turn off the warning indicator.
With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage of the A circuit 35 (OG/LB). The A circuit 35 (OG/LB) voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the regulator, and the regulator controls the generator field current to maintain the correct generator output.
The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in cold temperatures and lower in warm temperatures. This allows for better battery recharge in the winter and reduces the chance of overcharging in the summer.
Battery Positive Output (B+) Circuit 38 (BK/OG)
The generator output is supplied through the battery positive output (B+) terminal on the back of the generator to the battery and electrical system.
I Circuit 904 (LG/RD)
The I (ignition) circuit 904 (LG/RD) is used to turn on the voltage regulator. This circuit is powered up with the ignition switch in the RUN position. This circuit is also used to turn the charging system warning indicator on if there is a fault in the charging system operation.
A Circuit 35 (OG/LB)
The A (battery sense) circuit 35 (OG/LB) is used to sense battery voltage. This voltage is used by the regulator to determine generator output. This circuit is used to supply current to the generator field (rotor). The amount of current supplied to the rotor will determine generator output.
S Circuit 4 (WH/BK)
The S (stator) circuit 4 (WH/BK) is used to feed back a voltage signal from the generator to the regulator. This voltage is used by the regulator to turn off the charging system warning indicator. The S circuit is fed back externally on external mounted regulator generators.
Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
  • Battery case, posts, hold-down clamp, cables and connections
  • Generator drive (serpentine) belt for condition and tension to make sure there is no slip between the belt and the pulley. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .
  • Battery charge
  • Generator pulley
  • Battery junction box (BJB)Mega Fuse
  • Battery junction box fuse:
    • 11 (20A)
  • Central junction box (CJB) fuse:
    • 30 (30A)
  • Circuitry
  • Charging system warning indicator
  • Cables
  1. Check the operation of the charging system warning indicator lamp (instrument cluster). Normal operation is as follows:
    • With the ignition switch OFF, the charging system warning indicator should be OFF.
    • With the ignition switch in RUN and the engine off, the charging system warning indicator light should be on.
    • With the engine running, the charging system warning indicator light should be off.
  1. Verify the battery condition. Refer to Section 414-01 .
Normal Charging System Voltages and Charging System Warning Indicator Operation Ignition Switch Position A Circuit 35 (OG/LB) S Circuit 4 (WH/BK) I Circuit 904 (LG/RD) Generator B+ Circuit 38 (BK/OG) Battery Engine to Battery Ground Charging System Warning Indicator Operation OFF 12 volts 0 volts 0 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Off RUN-engine off 12 volts 0 volts 1-3 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Illuminated RUN-engine running 13-
15 volts 1/2 battery voltage 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 0 volts Off
  1. If the customer concern is verified after the initial inspection, refer to the Symptom Chart to determine which tests to carry out.
    • The charging system warning indicator is on with the engine running (the system voltage does not increase)
    • Circuitry.
    • Voltage regulator.
    • Generator.
    • GO to Pinpoint Test B .
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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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The 120 is used for the lights. The 240 is used for the heating elements.

A 240 volt breaker (nominally 220 volt) -- supplies both 120 and 240 volts depending on how the supply is connected to the appliance.

There will be a 240 volt (nominally 220 volt) breaker in the main panel for the oven. This is two 120 volt breakers side-by-side with their toggle switches connected together with a strap across the top of the toggles.

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