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Jet bore threads not holding properly,side covers,breaking system

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The jet bores are supposed to have a plastic liner near the outside of the bores that grips the jet screws to hold adjustment. You could try inserting a piece or two of thin plastic fishing leader, then inserting the jet screw. Don't insert so much leader that the material gets into the pointed end of the screw area as it will plug the jet. Any other threads that are not holding after being properly tightened can be be restrained by applying 'Loc Tite' thread locker fluid (from an auto parts house) to the threads before putting things together. Does the machine seem to have excessive vibration? Investigate the problem if it does. Hope this helps!

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

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I instaled a new key switch to my 04 superglide. then installed a new battery. now i have power through the electric side of the bike but cant turn key off. no fuel pump no start and headlights on bra


Probably not installed and aligned correctly.

To Re-Install the Ignition Switch

FIRST for DOMESTIC BIKES : Install the two screws with flat washers at the base of the ignition switch housing and alternately tighten those screws to 36-60 in-lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm). OR FOR INTERNATIONAL BIKES: Install two new break-away screws with flat washers as follows: verify that the threads in the upper fork bracket are clean and in good condition because dirty and/or damaged threads may cause the heads of the break-away screws to snap off before the switch housing is properly tightened. Use great care to avoid losing the heads of any of the break-away screws anywhere in the motorcycle because normal motorcycle operating vibrations could cause these heads to damage paint and other surfaces, wear away wire insulation or do other damage to the motorcycle and/or its parts. Tighten the break-away screws in a clockwise direction until the heads snap off. THEN install the handlebars. Then install the ignition switch connector which is a 3-place Packard connector, at the front of the ignition switch housing. THEN install the anchor of a new cable strap in the hole at the bottom right side of the radio and tighten the cable strap to capture and hold the main harness conduit to ignition switch.

ON FLHX and FLHT/C/U: Install the fairing cap next. THEN, using the elongated holes in the fairing brackets and a long ball end socket install the four socket head screws to fasten the radio (the storage box on an FLHT motorcycle) to the left and the right radio support brackets and alternatively tighten those screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4.0-5.1 Nm). THEN install the outer fairing.

ON FLTR:Install instrument nacelle next and then install the switch position plate fitting the tabs into the slots of the fairing cap on FLHX, FLHT/C/U or on FLTR the instrument nacelle. The plate will easily snaps into the proper place when the parts are correctly installed. Be careful not to break off the tabs and if you do damage them replace them. THEN install the spacer over the threaded post of the ignition switch housing until it contacts the switch position plate and arrange/locate the spacer so that the widest side is forward and the inside tabs fit into the post slots. THEN slide the collar over that threaded post until it comes up against the spacer and place the collar so that the outside tab is forward and the inside tabs fit into the slots of the post. THEN screw the nut onto the post with the lip facing down and the smaller Outside diameter facing up. THEN turn the front forks to the right fork stop and using a 7/8 inch open end adapter wrench to tighten the nut. It should be tightened top 125-150 in-lbs(14.1-16.9 Nm). THEN install the spring into the bore at the underside of knob the knob and with that knob oriented toward the "FORK LOCK" position, insert the shaft into the threaded post. THEN while pressing the knob down turn the key clockwise to "UNLOCK" and you should hear it click into proper engagement if it is correctly engaged after which you can release the knob into its normally installed position where it should correctly rotate through all four operating positions. If it does not install correctly as above verify that the button at the base/bottom of the knob is pressed in and the key is turned to a apposition 60 degrees beyond the "UNLOCK" position. Try to rotate it again and if it is still not installed properly do the foregoing steps again. If it still will not properly install it may be that the knob was not removed while in the "FORK LOCK" position or it may have inadvertently moved out of this position while the knob was removed. In this case you will need to get or make an alignment tool and insert it until it fits in where the lock mechanism would fit and then holding the forks so they cannot turn rotate the alignment tool in a counter clockwise directionuntil the fork locks at which time remove the tool and try to install again as set out above. If it will still not install properly thedetent and switch position lugs are likely not aligned properly which can occur if the alignment tool or the ignition switch knob is rotated before it is properly inserted or bottomed in the ignition switch housing. In this case reinstall the knob shaft into the threaded post and gently rotate the knob until it drops into a partially installed position and note where it is pointing at that time i.e. is it pointing to the rear, to the "ACCESS"," IGNITION" or "OFF" position and then again remove the knob and reinsert the alignment tool so that the bottom of the handle is about 0.500-0.0750 in. (12.7-19.1 mm) from the top of the threaded post, and then hold. It there and rotate the tool counter-clockwise as far as necessary to get it to the "FORK LOCK" position and then go through the foregoing installation procedures again. When it is properly installed you are done and can reinstall the main fuse and side cover etc.

Jun 25, 2014 | Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide...

1 Answer

How to re install the key switch on harley 2009 flhtcu


To Re-Install the Ignition Switch


FIRST for DOMESTIC BIKES : Install the two screws with flat washers at the base of the ignition switch housing and alternately tighten those screws to 36-60 in-lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm). OR FOR INTERNATIONAL BIKES: Install two new break-away screws with flat washers as follows: verify that the threads in the upper fork bracket are clean and in good condition because dirty and/or damaged threads may cause the heads of the break-away screws to snap off before the switch housing is properly tightened. Use great care to avoid losing the heads of any of the break-away screws anywhere in the motorcycle because normal motorcycle operating vibrations could cause these heads to damage paint and other surfaces, wear away wire insulation or do other damage to the motorcycle and/or its parts. Tighten the break-away screws in a clockwise direction until the heads snap off. THEN install the handlebars. Then install the ignition switch connector which is a 3-place Packard connector, at the front of the ignition switch housing. THEN install the anchor of a new cable strap in the hole at the bottom right side of the radio and tighten the cable strap to capture and hold the main harness conduit to ignition switch.


ON FLHX and FLHT/C/U: Install the fairing cap next. THEN, using the elongated holes in the fairing brackets and a long ball end socket install the four socket head screws to fasten the radio (the storage box on an FLHT motorcycle) to the left and the right radio support brackets and alternatively tighten those screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4.0-5.1 Nm). THEN install the outer fairing.


ON FLTR: Install instrument nacelle next and then install the switch position plate fitting the tabs into the slots of the fairing cap on FLHX, FLHT/C/U or on FLTR the instrument nacelle. The plate will easily snaps into the proper place when the parts are correctly installed. Be careful not to break off the tabs and if you do damage them replace them. THEN install the spacer over the threaded post of the ignition switch housing until it contacts the switch position plate and arrange/locate the spacer so that the widest side is forward and the inside tabs fit into the post slots. THEN slide the collar over that threaded post until it comes up against the spacer and place the collar so that the outside tab is forward and the inside tabs fit into the slots of the post. THEN screw the nut onto the post with the lip facing down and the smaller Outside diameter facing up. THEN turn the front forks to the right fork stop and using a 7/8 inch open end adapter wrench to tighten the nut. It should be tightened top 125-150 in-lbs (14.1-16.9 Nm). THEN install the spring into the bore at the underside of knob the knob and with that knob oriented toward the "FORK LOCK" position, insert the shaft into the threaded post. THEN while pressing the knob down turn the key clockwise to "UNLOCK" and you should hear it click into proper engagement if it is correctly engaged after which you can release the knob into its normally installed position where it should correctly rotate through all four operating positions. If it does not install correctly as above verify that the button at the base/bottom of the knob is pressed in and the key is turned to a apposition 60 degrees beyond the "UNLOCK" position. Try to rotate it again and if it is still not installed properly do the foregoing steps again. If it still will not properly install it may be that the knob was not removed while in the "FORK LOCK" position or it may have inadvertently moved out of this position while the knob was removed. In this case you will need to get or make an alignment tool and insert it until it fits in where the lock mechanism would fit and then holding the forks so they cannot turn rotate the alignment tool in a counter clockwise direction until the fork locks at which time remove the tool and try to install again as set out above. If it will still not install properly the detent and switch position lugs are likely not aligned properly which can occur if the alignment tool or the ignition switch knob is rotated before it is properly inserted or bottomed in the ignition switch housing. In this case reinstall the knob shaft into the threaded post and gently rotate the knob until it drops into a partially installed position and note where it is pointing at that time i.e. is it pointing to the rear, to the "ACCESS"," IGNITION" or "OFF" position and then again remove the knob and reinsert the alignment tool so that the bottom of the handle is about 0.500-0.0750 in. (12.7-19.1 mm) from the top of the threaded post, and then hold. It there and rotate the tool counter-clockwise as far as necessary to get it to the "FORK LOCK" position and then go through the foregoing installation procedures again. When it is properly installed you are done and can reinstall the main fuse and side cover etc.

May 29, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

St1300 valve cover bolt


Go to a Ace Hardware store or an automotive store and get a tap for the size of the bore and a tap handle. The tap will re-thread the bore.

Nov 21, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bajaj wind miss firing after engine bore


timing cud be messed up--chec flywheel marks for top dead cnter--also float level or jets of carb need service--test for rite compression

Aug 20, 2012 | Bajaj Wind 125 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Serger - my needles break, never happenned before, and over travels on left upper looper


Make sure, Joe, that your needles are pushed up into needle bar shaft a's high a's they will go. Although same length, the left needle will appear higher than the one on right side when properly seated and tighten clamp screw securely. Check Lower Looper for proper threading--thread delivery eye of lower looper to far left "hidden" from sight. Use looper tweezers and it helps threading it. The thread then gets pulled to right side and goes front to back of that hole in front of you on lower looper. Follow threading guide on the cover door to right of your serger. Hope this helps. Jimmy

Apr 04, 2012 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Break fluid leaking in buckets from rear disc break on drivers side..is it the break line or caliper. If the caliper how do I replace it?


It could be a brake line near the caliper, or the brake caliper itself:


Inspect/Service/Replace To be able to replace brake pads, service the rotor, or to replace the caliper, the caliper must be removed. The procedure for doing this will vary according to caliper design. Always follow the specific procedures given in a service manual. Use the following as an example of these procedures:

  • Remove the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
  • Raise the vehicle and remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  • Make sure the correct caliper is installed on the correct anchor plate.
  • Lubricate the rubber insulators (if so equipped) with silicone dielectric compound.
  • On a sliding or floating caliper, install a C-clamp with the solid end of the clamp on the caliper housing and the screw end on the metal portion of the outboard brake pad. Tighten the clamp until the piston bottoms in the caliper bore , then remove the clamp. Bottoming the piston allows room for the brake pad to slide over the ridge of rust that accumulates on the edge of the rotor.
f46-12.gif Bottoming the piston in the caliper's bore.
  • On threaded-type rear calipers, the piston must be rotated to depress it. This requires a special tool.
f46-13.gif A special tool is required to move a threaded piston into its bore. Courtesy of Ford Motor Company.
  • Disconnect the brake hose from the caliper and remove the copper gasket or washer and cap the end of the brake hose. If only the brake pads are to be replaced, do not disconnect the brake hose. If copper washers or gaskets are used, be sure to use new ones--the old ones might have taken a set and might not form a tight seal if reused.
  • Remove the two mounting brackets to the steering knuckle bolts. Support the caliper when removing the second bolt to prevent the caliper from falling.
  • On a sliding caliper, remove the top bolts, retainer clip, and antirattle springs.
f46-14.gif Sliding caliper removal.
  • On a floating caliper, remove the two special pins that hold the caliper to the anchor plate.
f46-15.gif Floating caliper removal.
  • On a fixed caliper, remove the bolts holding it to the steering knuckle.
  • On all three types, get the caliper off by prying it straight up and lifting it clear of the rotor.
  • Fill the master cylinder reservoirs and bleed the hydraulic system.
  • Check for fluid leaks under maximum pedal pressure.
  • Lower the vehicle and road test it.

Oct 26, 2010 | 2004 Lexus GX 470

1 Answer

How do you load the bobbin properly?


Hi there,

Well you may please follow the steps below -
1. Remove the bobbin from the sewing machine. Note: whether you have a drop-in, front or side-loading bobbin on your sewing machine. A drop in bobbin will load from the top, may be via a removable bobbin case cover near the machine-fed dogs. A side or front loading bobbin needs to be loaded into a removable bobbin case under the machine.
2. Choose the right size bobbin for the sewing machine.
3. Wind thread onto your bobbin. Your sewing machine should have a standard thread spool to hold the thread and a short, squat post wide enough for a bobbin.
4. Put the thread and empty bobbin into position on your sewing machine. Wrap the thread around the bobbin to start it. On most machines, disengage the needle by turning the smaller hand-wheel on the machine toward you. Push the bobbin post into position, securing the bobbin into place. Press gently down. Thread should begin to wind neatly onto your bobbin.
5. Break the thread, push the bobbin post back into an inactive position and remove the bobbin. Tighten the hand-wheel. Thread your sewing machine again if necessary before loading the bobbin.
6. Remove the bobbin case cover and put the bobbin into position. The thread should slide through a catch on the bobbin case and up through the cover.
7. Access the bobbin case for a front or side mount bobbin. Lift the catch and remove the removable bobbin holder. Put the bobbin into the holder and run the thread through the holder, bringing it to the front. Lift the catch and slide the bobbin holder back into the case. Hold your needle thread gently forward with your left hand and turn the hand-wheel. The needle thread will pass down into the machine and catch a loop of the bobbin thread. Pull this loop up and slide both threads to the back before beginning to sew.
Good Luck!!

Thanks for using FixYa!!

Sep 22, 2010 | Euro-Pro Shark 60 - 384

1 Answer

Top thread goes for awhile and then breaks. Alsoo


Try a fresh needle and be sure the flat side of the needle shaft is facing the back of the machine.

Thread the machine with the presser foot in the up position.

Make sure the bobbin is inserted into the case so the thread is feeding from the bobbin spool in the correct direction and through the proper guides.

Hold onto the thread end at the needle and hand-walk the needle down into the needle plate and back up, bringing the bobbin thread with it.

Take both thread ends under the presser foot and to the back of the machine.

Feb 25, 2010 | Singer 8280 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

I can not thread a bobbin to save my life. Help.


first, google your sewing machines name and model number and "manual" or "users guide" and you can find the link to the PDF download. Here is what I found:

1 Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the balance whell toward you (counterclockwise) and raise the presserfoot lever. Slide the button and open cover.
2 insert the bobbin so the thread comes out in a clockwise direction. Use bobbins intended for this machine. !CAUTION! Be sure the bobbin is set so the thread unrols in the correct direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or the needle to break.
3 Hold the thread end, push the bobbin down with your finger, and pass the thread securely through the thread cutting groove.
4 Replce the bobbin cover. Place the left tab in place then press lightly on the right side until the cover clicks into place. *insert the cover so that the end of the thread comes out from the back of the cover.

good luck and G.Bless!

Oct 16, 2009 | Brother XR-65t Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Top thread keeps breaking on ESe2.


Many things can inter fear with the thread and cause it to break. A common problem is the thread getting wrapped around the top tension rollers on that machine. You can take off the "face cover" (side cover on the left) and look from the side and see if the 2 little rollers have thread wrapped around or underneath them. Start there.

Jun 27, 2009 | Baby Lock Esante

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