No sound or picture

hello!really, you can't clean lens to improve the picture quality. it just won't make it worth. I've seen lenses and mirror covered with 1/16 inch layer of the dust, smoke, etc. Wiping them off didn't make much difference if your CRTs(picture tubes) are strong. If those are weak or coolant contaminated(cloudy), no cleaning will drastically improve the picture. Except for "basic" cleaning, which requires disassembling of the cabinet, detaching the mirror and spending couple hours to do so, there is not much you can do yourself. Replacing coolant requires 'top gun" skills, restoring CRTs emissions requires $1,000+ device and knowledge "how to" and 'how not to fry" tubes. If picture is not too bad, but out of convergence, there is nothing to do with any procedures, described above. Especially, if coolant leaked onto boards(very common problem). In any case, there is a MAJOR repair involved, possibly at the board replacement level. Not a D.I.Y. project.If nothing relates to your case, just poke set open from the back(carefully) on top of the "bulge". Clean it with "windex" or "invisible glass", using "bounty" paper towels and try to enjoy the show!good luck,Alex.

What is the maker and model of your television?

If you have yellow coloring on everything, this is not a lens alignment problem. Either you have a color balance problem (weak blue) or the coolant fluid in one or more CRTs is going bad. The coolant liquid is supposed be clear, but with age it breaks down and turns yellow.

First, unplug the set and remove the back. Use a mirror if you have to, but look down at the top of each CRT using a bright light. They should be colored red, green or blue, with no yellow to muddy the color. That's a quick check on the coolant condition.

You can replace the coolant, but be very careful not to spill any inside the set. Broken-down coolant can short out electronics and cause a lot of damage to the circuitry, especially in the high-voltage sections. Some people prefer to remove the CRTs from the set for this process, but that is a considerable amount of work. Others use kits with pumps to remove the coolant, and work inside the set with reasonable precautions - if there is enough room. There are a number of good tutorials on-line, or at least there were when I last looked two years ago.

I recommend getting the color right before attempting the focus. Bad coolant may scatter the light and fuzz up the picture, so check that out first and post back what you find.

If you have yellow fringes on otherwise normal colored objects, the blue convergence is off. This will also make lettering appear out of focus. Most RPTVs have a procedure for bringing up a convergence pattern (a grid of dots) using the remote control. The dots should all be white or have very little color fringing. Follow the directions, and make small adjustments, then check the effects all around the picture. Correcting one section may cause a change elsewhere. Use a ruler to make sure the dots stay in the right place; otherwise you may end up with a distorted picture.

Caution to other readers: do not try to adjust convergence if you have a "bow-tie" shaped picture in one or more colors. This indicates a convergence amplifier failure, which must be fixed first.

Usually when I see this set with an unusual problem the first thing I do is to remove the front cover and look for coolant leaking onto the circuit board. The coolant is in a small chamber above each picture tube and sometimes the gaskets lose their seal and it begins to drip down onto the circuitry. Get a powerful light and inspect it closely for a few drips coming from the frame around the picture tubes and look for small puddles of goop on the boards. The only other common problem I run into on this set is convergence issues which usually cause a dead set or color alignment problems when set is on. I really think whoever looks will find coolant leaks. Good Luck, Russmann.

The tv pictures cloudy or hallow?Yes,than the R,G,B CRTS Tubes guns require changing it coolant liquid.Tries websites like Tvrepairworld.com,Tvrepairkits.com to buy a coolant kit to used.But just R,B,G colors lines mis alignment,colors shadows or 3D pictures,this problems is a convergence problems,it dead.The tv convergence board require changing the 2 STK convergence ICS and some or all it resistors to solved the convergence problems.The shop,will cost u $300-350 for parts and labors.

First thing I do on these is to disconnect power cord,pull off the front speaker grill and remove the small door covering the tubes. Get a bright light and look for coolant leaking down from the metal shields that cover the high voltage anode on the picture tubes. There is a chamber on each tube that contains ethylene glycol or antifreeze to keep the tubes from overheating. Sometimes the gaskets get a leak and coolant drips down onto the circuit board. Look very closely at the board to see if there are any drips below the tubes. If this is the case you may consider replacing the set but some can be saved by cleaning the board and sealing the leaks. Have a pro look at the tv if this doesn't help because all you can get online is a guess. Second thing that could cause this is a failure in the vertical or convergence circuit that would entail part replacement at a cost of 200-300. If you find no coolant on the circuit board that means the convergence circuit or the vertical circuit needs to be rebuilt. These sets are known for having bad capacitors on the boards that eventually have to be replaced when a failure occurs. Good luck, Russmann.

Sorry to hear this. What has happened is that CRT coolant has leaked from one or more CRT's down onto the Main bd and or the Power Supply bds and shorted them. You must replaced ALL three CRT's and the shorted Main bd and or the Power Supply boards. Then a Full Convergence Alignment must be done by a very good and experienced tech. Not cheap.

Yes its a very common in Samsungs to leak CRT coolant onto the boards that drive the CRTs. Most repair techs will automatically check for leaking CRT coolant on Samsung and mitsubishi simply due to their history of that problem.

Well I have work on many set, but I must say I have not work on an Akai but I think this set is much like the Apex and the PS may have a fusible resistor open. Second I have changed many of CRT fluids, but I have found that changing the gasket will cause leaks to cease. If you get the power supply out check the resistors and fuses. This sounds like your problem, but first I would make sure leak is taken care of, because if not you've wasted a good convergence board.

Sorry, but when the coolant leaks down onto the small signal board, that board will never work right again. The fluid penetrates the board itself since the board is double sided and has many feed-throughs. The fluid gets under the surface mount parts and just eats through the copper traces, part leads and board itself. After trying many times to clean and restore those boards, not one has ever worked right again. The boards are NLA from Mitsubishi, so the set is done.