Question about Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer wont shut off and now wont start

For a while my dryer wouldn't shut off and now won't start at all.

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  • 18 more comments 
  • jthompson206 Apr 25, 2010

    It would not shut off at all on times or any other setting. The timer would move but wouldnt go to off. Model number LER6620PQ1

  • jthompson206 Apr 25, 2010

    so you think it is the timer for sure?

  • jthompson206 Apr 25, 2010

    and best place to order parts.

  • jthompson206 Apr 25, 2010

    Dubuque IA

  • jthompson206 Apr 26, 2010

    thank you

  • jthompson206 Apr 30, 2010

    I replaced the timer. It shut off once way too early and know its not shutting off again. It even heats in fluff mode.

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    i checked and it is hiiked up right. any ideas

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    I put the timer in the same way the old one was and all the off spots are in the correct position. I can get one.

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    I can get an ohmmeter

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    the ohmmeter isn't reading anything

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    ok not real sure how to read an omhmeter but when i did tm to wb the needle moved all the way to the other side. tm to or it did nothing

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    sorry that was on timed. It is the opposite on automatic.

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    didnt know if i sent this. that was in timed it was the opposite in automatic

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    on timed the meter goes half way. on auto it doesn't move.

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    nothing on the meter.

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    the wires are in the correct spots

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    any other ideas?

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    the one time that it stopped early was when was on auto dry. Also the timed dry has a cool down and it seems to heat when it is in that also.

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    ok i think i found the problem. when i was looking for a short i plug the dryer in to see if it was still working. i notice a spark down where the heating element is so i took that apart and there was a random wire touching the heating element and the side of the casing that it is in the element is also broken. couldn't figure out what the wire was until i talked to my wife. One of her bras was missing the under wire. You think that could have cause the problem. Could you get me the part number. Thanks for all your help.

  • jthompson206 May 01, 2010

    do you think that could cause the problem with the dryer not stopping?

×

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  • Master
  • 949 Answers

The first thing to check is the circuit breaker to make sure you have power to the dryer, if this is okay then proceed

If the dryer would not shut off on its own it more than likely tripped the thermal fuse due to running too long or overheating.

The thermal fuse is located behind the back panel just to the left of the exhaust, it is rectangular, white in color and has 2 blue wires on it. The part number is 3352519.

The not shutting of would need a bit more explanation to be sure. If it did not shut off on Timed Dry or automatic the problem would be the timer, if it shuts off on timed dry and not on automatic then the operating thermostat is most likely bad, the operating thermostat is located right next to the thermal fuse and is part number 3387134.

I would need the full model number from the tag on the front panel inside the door area to get you the part number for the timer.

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

  • 15 more comments 
  • Philip Apr 25, 2010

    The timer is part number 8299778,

    let me know if I can help further


  • Philip Apr 25, 2010

    Extremely confident.

    What city do you live in? I can look for a parts house there


  • Philip Apr 26, 2010

    Nothing I have on my list is there, I would check the local yellow pages for appliance parts and call for best pricing. Or you can surf online and do mail order. There are a multitude of places you be able to get a better price.

  • Philip Apr 30, 2010

    If it is heating in the fluff mode then the timer is connected wrong. It could be as simple as being in upside down so the dial does not match up with the console. I will look up the wiring diagram and get back with you in a few minutes. I have your model number as LER4634J, is that correct?

  • Philip Apr 30, 2010

    Sorry this is what I have


    LER6620PQ1


  • Philip May 01, 2010

    Here is an image of the wire connections to the timer looking at the back.




  • Philip May 01, 2010

    If it is heating in the fluff mode and connected right, it sure sounds like the timer or knob is upside down. If you were to look at the knob and visualize the index mark on the knob being 180 degrees off and try the dryer does it work right?

    Do you have an ohmmeter?


  • Philip May 01, 2010

    Hi,

    Here is a link to the wiring diagram.

    /Tech_Sheet_12_23_2009/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208576793.pdf

    Unplug the dryer. Turn the timer to the fluff mode where there should be no heat. Take the red wire off of terminal R from the timer, check with the ohmmeter from terminal R to terminal BK Black wire)on the timer. Tell me what the ohmmeter says.


  • Philip May 01, 2010

    Hi,

    Okay thank you. Reconnect those wires but do not plug the dryer back in.

    Remove the wires off of terminals WB and OR. With the timer pointing to Timed Dry around 30 minutes what reading do you get from the timer terminals TM to WB, and the timer terminals TM to OR?

    Then turn the timer to point to Automatic Dry and test the same terminals and send me the ohm readings.

    Thank you!


  • Philip May 01, 2010

    You are doing good, that is what I need to know if the needle moves all the way or not at all.

    Was this reading you just sent with the dryer in Timed dry or Automatic dry. I would need the two readings in both timed and automatic


    THanks!!


  • Philip May 01, 2010

    Okay, those are checking good. Reconnect those wires back up except the orange wire put one ohmmeter probe onto the orange wire and the other to a good ground on the machine(like a screw head).

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    Thanks, one more reading, same wire and screw with the timer in the off position

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    This is strange, all the readings are the way they should be. There are no shorts in the machine. The timer contacts are right.

    Can you check again the timer wires to make sure the black wire is on the BK terminal, the orange on Or etc.

    I am at a loss other than that.......


  • Philip May 01, 2010

    I am going over the diagram now and trying to find anything that would cause the symptoms. Everything appears to be right so far, it does not make sense why it would heat in the air fluff and stop before the cycle is complete unless it is something in the timer. The timer is new and connected right..... I am not sure what to advise you from here....

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    The wire that gives power from the timer to the heater is the Red wire from Terminal R on the timer. It connects internally to BK on the timer to get its power during air fluff or cool down there should be no power going to R from the timer.

    If you can see if you can follow the red wire from the timer down to bottom of the machine, it will connect to a couple switches before going to the heater. What we are looking for is a break in this wire where it can short to another wire. This is a shot in the dark and a remote chance.


  • Philip May 01, 2010

    The part number is 279838. That could cause heat when you should not have it.

  • Philip May 01, 2010

    Looking at the wiring diagram it is possible, the short that the underwire caused could have been back feeding power to the timer motor, causing it to run or stop when it was not suppose to.

×

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Kitchenaid dryer model kgys750jq0 wont start


The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive. Here is the switch to order if it is bad.

The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset. Here is the fuse to order in case it is bad.


Post back your findings and I will post the repair video for the repair.

Nov 07, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Bosch Nexxt Dryer 800 series when you try to turn it on, it just makes a click sound, but won't turn on. Any ideas about what's wrong. Thanks Marge


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.
Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Belt Switch If the dryer won't start, there might be a belt switch that has failed. This is not a common problem and most dryers do not have this switch. If the dryer has a belt switch, the switch shuts off power to the entire dryer if the belt breaks. It is possible that this switch has failed, even if the belt is not broken. It can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer works at all, even if all it does is hum, this is not the problem.

Incoming Power Problem If the dryer won't start, check to certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.

Drive Belt On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Drive Motor The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Door Switch The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Start Switch The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.
Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

9_29_2012_12_57_07_pm.gif

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Frigidaire affinity Dryer wont turn on


see this causes and fix it.God bless you
Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

Start Switch The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.
Door Switch The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Drive Motor The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Drive Belt On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.
Incoming Power Problem If the dryer won't start, check to certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.
Belt Switch If the dryer won't start, there might be a belt switch that has failed. This is not a common problem and most dryers do not have this switch. If the dryer has a belt switch, the switch shuts off power to the entire dryer if the belt breaks. It is possible that this switch has failed, even if the belt is not broken. It can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer works at all, even if all it does is hum, this is not the problem.

Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.

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I have an amana dryer,,,it says drying but it won't start,,no sound or nothing....I tried the fuse wires at the bottom direct and still nothing...so I don't think its the fuse...thanks


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.

Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Belt Switch If the dryer won't start, there might be a belt switch that has failed. This is not a common problem and most dryers do not have this switch. If the dryer has a belt switch, the switch shuts off power to the entire dryer if the belt breaks. It is possible that this switch has failed, even if the belt is not broken. It can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer works at all, even if all it does is hum, this is not the problem.

Incoming Power Problem If the dryer won't start, check to certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.

Drive Belt On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Drive Motor The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Door Switch The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Start Switch The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.

Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.
9_29_2012_1_07_19_pm.gif

Sep 28, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

The dryer shut off halve the way of the job.When I pressed the start button and it sound "hm...........hm" and wouldn't start again.After cool down a bit it start again but it stop after a...


Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Aug 13, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

I used my dryer this morning with no problem. I came back to use it this afternoon and it wouldn't start. I checked my power box and turned everything off and back on, but the dryer still wouldn't...


Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

;;';

Aug 07, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Asko 7005 dryer, start capcitor is cracked and has hard goo coming out the side, dryer wouldn't start and stay running, now it won't start at all. Could the capacitor be the problem or do you think...


Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Jun 17, 2011 | Asko T781 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Our 8 year old kenmore dryer won't do anything when you press the start button. We don't hear even a hum. It worked one day and then just wouldn't start the next day. We checked the fuse box...


Here is a good link for basic troubleshooting... But 10 to one the culprit is a thermal fuse or thermal cut off.... they are usually pretty cheap and easy to replace....

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-start+repair.htm

One final note on these: if you find your thermal fuse\cut off (or element) open, before replacing it, be sure to check the airflow out your dryer's vent system. Even though these devices do 'wear out' with age, poor airflow's the #1 cause of failure of these devices, and if your vent's partially clogged, a new thermal won't last very long, but will do its job again, and leave you 'cold' (a new element won't last long if the vent's clogged, either).

More info and pics:

http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYthermalfuses.htm

Jun 16, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

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