Question about Maytag MFD2560HES Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator

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Fridge wont get cold

The freezer is working fine but the fridge wont get cold

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  • Anonymous Mar 12, 2014

    The freezer is getting extra cold and the fridge is not getting cold at all How do I fix that

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DEFROST HEATERSFridge wont get cold - 2_bing.gif IN THE FREEZER. IF THERE IS FROST ON THE BACK WALL INSIDE THE OF THE FREEZER SECTION. YOU THEN HAVE A DEFROST PROBLEM. REMOVE THAT PANEL AND DEFROST WITH HAIR DRYER. THIS FROST IS BLOCKING THE AIR FLOW TO THE REF. SIDE. AFTER THIS IT WILL WORK FOR 10-21 DAYS WITH OUT REPLACING A PART. THERE IS A BROWN AND ORANGE WIRE TO THE DEFROST SAFTY THERMOST. THE CONNECTOR ON THAT BROWN WIRE MAY HAVE FROZE APART. THE DEFROST SAFETY THERMOSTAT MAY HAVE FAILED. OR CONTROL BOARD MAY HAVE FAILED. BEHIND THE KICK PLATE IN A BAG ATTACHED TO THE BOTTOM OF YOUR REF. CABINET IS A TECH SHEET ON HOW TO FORCE A DEFROST TO CHECK THE SYSTEM.

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

  • KD Grayson Heating,Air conditioning & Refrigeration

    First off if the reeferrs iced up, simply manually advance the defrost timer into defrost mode, the compressor will turn off and the heat strip if ok, will energize and you will soon hear the sizzle of the heaters doing the job. meaning the defrost timers bad, as if the terminator which is a simple klixon switch closing at 32 or so and opening at 70 or so as to not allow the defrost heaters to bake the reefers contents should the defrost timer fail in defrost mode. the defrost terminator is in series with the defrost heat strip thus allowing or disallowing the defrost to initiate or terminate, time and temoerasture initiated, time or temperature terminated!
    so both are required to initiate defrost time and temp, but either one satisfied or opened willl take the unit out of the defrost mode, exactly as a heat pump works, circuit board defrost timers require closing the door switch rapidly 3 times etc to manually advance a defrost, a hair dryers slow and try billing $106 .50 per hour using a blow dryer vs the appropriate heat gun which is far faster, the best is to simply manually advance the defrost and see if the heat strips work if not, 90% of the time its the heat strips not the defrost terminator which is a simple kilxon type switch. in series with the heat strip, it doesnt matter what color the wires are they are alll 2 sides of power every single one of them.. the wires on either side of the terminator is the defrost circuit all the way!!

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If your freezer side is capable of making ice, and that ice is dry and remains so,

the only issue you have is insufficient airflow to the reefer box section from the freezer.

The refrigerator section is 100% reliant upon the frezers side for all of its cold air.

The refer box has no evaportator of its own, There are 2 settings or dials.



One is the temperature thermostat, it actually controls the compresssor motors cycling,

thus the desired ice box temperature as well, it often says 1-10 and off as well, the reamaining setting, the one that cannot turn the compressor motor either off nor on is a damper door controller, that modulates the freezers airflow into the reefers box!This is where the problems occur, when one notices the reefers box is warm, they max both settings,which seems logical , and is for the thermostat dials setting.Where the major counter intuitive reality exists is the flapper dooors setting will say Colder and Warmer!!Colder of course!! right?? No, it actually means and usually does say, Colder Freezer!!not Colder Reefer! so you MAX or RAISE the thermostat, thats ok to do.But maxing or raising the other setting is just starving the reefer box section from sufficient cold air flow to maintain adequate temps.I have gone to hundreds of identical calls, Freezers ok, but Reefers warm! If the freezers making ice and the ice is dry, there is no problem with the refrigeration system, its airflow.when defrost timers or heaters fail the symptoms may be as yours, however the freezer will slowly warm in another day or so. But if the freezers making ice for days and never getting wet theres an airflow issue period, you may need to remove the back wall panel in the freeezer to see the coils condition , is it iced up or blocking airflow with icing/ is the ducting open between the freezer and reefer boxes?setting both dials to the midway setting should work fine. the condenser coils may be dirty/dusty too, is the cardboard backing still in place on back? it needs to be there intact.

is there product inside the reefer box? if not add 3 gallons of water.

Posted on Dec 27, 2010

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SOURCE: fridge left open all night and wont cool but the freezer still works.

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Posted on Aug 27, 2008

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SOURCE: Fridge not keeping cold

check the controls and make sure they are set properly, so that you are getting air into the ref. also a common thing is that the evap fan motor could be bad and not blowing air into the ref area. it could also be the start of a defrost problem

Posted on Sep 06, 2008

rylee_smith
  • 8619 Answers

SOURCE: freezer working fine but fridge wont go cold!

Hi

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.


Please revert for further assistance and Do rate the solution as "FixYa" if found useful.

Thanks
Rylee

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

  • 28 Answers

SOURCE: Hi i have a hotpoint mistral plus fridge freezer,

hi is this the frost free version ??? if it is which i think it is it could be a fault with temp module{frost free have electronic modules to control the system rather than a old fashioned bog standard thermostat inside the fridge} the fans should be controlled by the module in case of frost free models it could be the module which is playing up

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: samsung fridge freezer

I had the same problem. Just about 10days ago and of course warranty was done in January 2009. Luckly it was inexpensive to fix (less than $ 100). It was just frustrating to be without our fidge that long at this time of year. As well it was quite a challange to get the right part as Samsung is kinda the new kid on the block. Not sure if was the repair man on this end or the supplier but we eventually got the one we needed. you need to replace the fan motor on the fidge side of your unit. That solved our problem. Hope this helps cuz i feel your pain

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

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http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


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