Question about GE GTS18 18 Cu. Ft. Top-Freezer Refrigerator with Upfront Illuminated Temperature Controls & Spillpr...

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The electric is on but the fridge is not cooling

Our electric was out for a few days, now the fridge and freezer is back on and the light comes on when we open the door but it's not cooling down.

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ARE YOU USING A 3 WAY TO 2 WAY ADAPTER OR EXTENSION CORD. THIS MIGHT BE THE PROBLEM. TRY A NEW EXTENSION CORD TO A DIFFERENT OUTLET TO ELIMINATE THE POSIBILITY OF AN OUTLET PROBLEM. OR IF THERE IS A RECTANGLE COVER PLATE ON THE BACK OF THE REFRIGERTOR WITH THE CIRCUIT BOARD IN IT THEN THE BOARD MIGHT BE BROKEN. I KNOW THIS IS STUPID BUT THIS HAPPENS. MAKE SURE IT IS ON. LET ME KNOW WHEN YOU HAVE MORE INFO.

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hotpoint FZ175G red warning light comes on freezer still freezing after reset light comes on again after a couple of hours


Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.


This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

Sep 17, 2013 | Freezers

1 Answer

Fridge/freezer cooling inefficiently


Either the repair guy did not wire up the heater correctly or he replaced the wrong part, if the heater was good it was likley to be the defrost thermostat...I would call the repair guy back to check.

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Hotpoint fridge freezer green and red light on, switch offering 0


It could be a few problems to do with electrics, but try this first:

Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.


This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

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I suggest that you check your defrost heater in the freezer. If this is the problem, then if you empty out the freezer section you will see a solid sheet of ice on the back panel. If the ice is there, then you may need to replace your defrost heater, we had this same problem just a few days ago. Once the heater was replaced, the fridge started cooling about an hour or so.

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